All you need to do is get a small Tupperware container and use some double stick tape or Velcro to attach this small container to the top of the pump. Fill container will just enough 151 rum (or what ever else you'd like to use as a cleaning solution) to completely cover the atomizers. Place a lid on the container just in case it comes unattached. Turn on pump and watch the rippling of the fluid at a rapped rate. 15 min seems to be long enough to get the job done. The attys will be clean as a whistle basically acting as if they were new again. Rinse with water than dry. Make sure to re prime with a least 4 drops.
I discovered this method of cleaning years ago using it as a solution to clean ball bearings packed with thick lithium grease but that takes days and a strong mineral sprints solution.
JUST attach a container on top of this pump!
]]>So, I've been struggling with how to disassemble these 801 atomizers for my pyrex atomizer project, so I went to Ace Hardware store with my 3.5yo daughter for inspiration. I came back with a
3/8x1.5" fine-thread hex head bolt ($0.69), a
3/8-24x fine-thread hex nut ($0.35), and a
#3007 7/16" steel shaft collar ($2.70).
I could have used some 15/32" brass tubing instead of the collar, but I didn't want to have to buy a new hacksaw blade, and it actually cost more ($2.99).
Anyhow, I put the nut on the bolt and threaded it down about halfway, put the collar on the exposed bolt, then screwed the atomizer onto the end of the bolt very tightly. I clamped the end of the hex bolt in my vice grips and used an appropriate (if incorrect) crescent wrench to slowly unscrew the hex nut, pressing the collar against the body of the atomizer, extracting the connector.
I used the collar because I couldn't find a washer or other cheaper random hardware bit that would work. Of course, I had a monkey hanging from my shoulders half of the time, and the other half she spent redistributing the various fittings she could find, so you may be able to find one cheaper.
]]>What is this stuff? 30ga? I don't think that jacket is PVC, either.
Anyway, is there a decent replacement out there? Can I use magnet wire? ]]>
If there is already one out there I apologize for assuming it hasn't been a thought yet... Please point me in the direction... ]]>
PTC Heaters (link)
Quote:
|
Positive temperature co-efficient - PTC heating elements are small ceramic stones with self temperature limiting characteristics. PTC stones have fast heating response times and plateau once the pre-defined reference temperature is reached. The shape of these stones can be be designed to be square, rectangular, round, ring or doughnut style. Above the reference temperature, the semiconducting and ferro-electrical properties of the ceramic are utilized to produce a rise in resistance of several orders of magnitude, and hence produce it's self limiting properties. This resistance rise can be experienced over a temperature range of a few degrees Celsius. This PTC attribute results in a heating element that self-regulates at a pre-set temperature and automatically varies its wattage in order to maintain that pre-set temperature. Hence, a greater degree of thermal dissipation (cooling) will result in higher power. The materials used are doped polycrystalline ceramics based on barium titanate. Once the ceramic body has been formed through processes including blending, milling, drying and sintering, metallized contacts are applied to the surface to facilitate electrical connection. |
When air passes a cylinder it doesn't wrap all the way around it. It turbulates on the back side. This presents a problem for the coil, the thermal mass, only getting just over 50% exposure. Doesn't seem like the most efficient design. It's small diameter is to its advantage, but the weight of the atomized liquid is heavier and its energy will pull it past the coil not allowing it to roll back in to it.
Ceramic cups sometimes have side intakes allowing more disturbance of the atomized liquid. This can cause a stall, possibly holding it near the coil, allowing it to vaporize. With the diameter of the PV tube, it seems doubtful. It's possible that this design doesn't matter
being small tubed and hit from all directions but the other advantages made below should be well founded.
The new design here is an oval shape. An egg (small end 1st) is actually the best for less aerodynamic drag.
The oval design has less resistance to airflow, (Airplane Airfoils)
Less distance from the coil as it passes and less distance to try and be pulled back in. Its biggest plus is more surface area of the nichrome wire exposed to the atomized airflow. Approximately 80%.
Other advantages is the main body of the coil is now in the mainstream of the 2 bottom feed holes and the 2mm "side face" is in direct path of the side inlets. A single smaller dia coil can be 2x as wide as the feed ports. When examing a dead carboned atomizer, it's normally buldged in the middle and very little to none on the ends since the ends were out of the airstream not really doing any work.
Materials were 2ea. 1mm rods as a winding core and 1.25in of 36ga wire. Resulting in a 3.1ohm coil. This makes a coil 1mm wide x 2mm tall at its widest points plus the dia of the wire. (.005 in.)
My next one will use a 1.5mm top rod to more simulate the egg shape.
As for now, not much to say other than it works well. Vapor production is good and time will tell on buildup and longevity.
Note: The 801 high bridge atty pictured had a broken mesh leg. Best attempts were made to repair the mesh joint and assure good feed on that side. So far I haven't noticed any problems. No typical 801 flooding, but it's still early on this one. Maybe a reduced feed on the bad side or the design allows it to just get drawn out.
Hope you enjoy it.
Edit:
Silica "fire wick" rope: My thanks to carlos49 for sending me some till I found it. It's the white braided rope used on wood stove doors.
From carlos49-"A word of advice if anyone is interested, get the loosley knitted type it's a lot easier to unknit without it breakinginto little pieces. http://www.mcmaster.com/#silica-rope/=3a9xbm
Some use the rope from hardware store kits.
Nichrome wire: 36ga (20ohm per ft) $2 for 10' free shipping from:
http://jacobs-online.biz/nichrome_wire.htm ]]>
I love my 901 cause I get more vapor......got to looking at the 510 which is cheaper and I have several of....(my wife likes it better)..... long story short
it has two holes on the atomizer, I plugged one with a dot of glue, now I get a harder hit just like my trusty old 901......
that is all:wub: ]]>
Is there any chatter out there about manufacters working on improved models???:grr::grr::grr: ]]>
Instead of a coil what about a strip? The nichrome strip could be wider and thicker than the coil I suppose. Might be easier to clean? I guess that would be the benefit. The wick could be a porous ceramic that just is in contact with the strip... I don't know.
Any ideas? ]]>
I removed the bridge from the atty. Be carfull removing this for any reason. The coil and mesh will come up with it. I lucked out and did not break the wires. I suggest using a screw driver to hold down the 'innards'.
Ok the idea....
Basically I wanted to try a direct wicking approach. I purchased some 1/4'' wide untreated cotton lantern wick. This stuff is very similar to a shoe string. I cut off a 1'' piece and then cut this in half along the length. I then rolled this in PTB and left 1/3'' hanging out. This is the piece that will directly contact the coil. So far so good. The only issue is when it drys out the cotton will start to burn.
This is just a prelimanary approach. The cotton does not soak up the juice as well as I had wanted. Thinner juices should work good.
I would like to cap off the cart with hard plastic, or possibly a metal mesh (pipe filters). Then cut a small hole to insert the wick.
Anyway, I will keep on trying this out and post back with my final 'analysis'. ]]>
:confused::confused::confused: ]]>
1.Top= snap in bridge (stainless steel wool or braid)
2.Next= filament wrapped around fiber (wick)
3.Next a drilled atomizer bottom (drilled for the two leads of the heating coil) with threaded bottom and a void in the thread to accept bent tail of filament.
4.Bottom another atomizer bottom with the correct threadding to get to batterie holder and threads over 3t complete contacts.
when you push 2 into 3 the tails protrude
bend tail of negetive into cutout of thread
snip and bend positive lead to form center contact
thread bottom-4 onto 3 to pinch in place and hold coil
Slide into or thread into tube and attach cart.
No solder, just self clamping
This would solve all solder problems, make the atomizer easily rebuildable by anyone. ]]>
Second thing on the same page was interesting. Do a search on the page for "electric train smokers". Would this be what is needed to get the vaporization going?
I am looking for suppliers for DIY Atomizer.
Aerocon Systems Nichrome Wire
Also looking for a ceramic pot to put this in. ]]>
And what other atomizer will work (fit) in place of the RN4081? ]]>
small enough to barely let the end of an average paper staple through. ]]>