Aluminum threads? Are they that much of a nightmare? Your thoughts! - Page 2
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Thread: Aluminum threads? Are they that much of a nightmare? Your thoughts!

  1. #11
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    Look at reviews - as many as you can - from people who have used whatever PV you're interested in before buying. Also, look at he APV forum and see which devices seem to be creating the most issues for their users and avoid those.

    Some items will definitely be better built than others, perhaps even if they DO use aluminum threading. I don't know from firsthand experience as my higher end stuff has steel threading.

    Really, the more complaints about an item, the more you'll know which to avoid. If there are very few about that item, then it's a good bet unless no one owns one....LOL

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    510 to eGo Adapter Convertor for E-Cigarette
    For $1.30 you can save on the wear and tear on your ecig. I tighten that in with some pliers (not too tight...just tight enough that I can't accidentally unscrew by hand.) It adds maybe a half an inch to e-cig...should fit any 510 mod.

    At that point all your wear and tear on the threads is to your tanks and that adapter. If it ever goes bad you can replace it or just take it off and take your chances. I use that on my vamo v3 as I heard they have threading issues but I think they improved material since v1 and v2.
    Last edited by Mohamed; 11-01-2013 at 07:18 PM.
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    I would not buy a PV that had aluminum 510 connection threads. Even if you're careful assembling it, bangs and drops are going to ruin that in time. As for the body threads, if you're careful assembling them I wouldn't worry about it.

    Between brass and aluminum, brass has an edge, but not much if it's soft brass. In a cheap mod, it might well be soft.

    SS is the way to go for durability if at all possible

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    I didn't purchase from FT, but I have had bad experiences with lower end APV's with thread issues.

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    It depends on the type of aluminum, there are some types the 2000 and 7000 series alloys that can be as hard as steel. I can say without even seeing it that those are not what are in any Chinese mod. The threads will go bad in any of those in time. If you avoid bumping, dropping, or looking at it funny it would increase the life. Aluminum does not like being rubbed, especially the cheap stuff. You might get a little more life by adding some Noalox, it could help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanG View Post
    It depends on the type of aluminum, there are some types the 2000 and 7000 series alloys that can be as hard as steel. I can say without even seeing it that those are not what are in any Chinese mod. The threads will go bad in any of those in time. If you avoid bumping, dropping, or looking at it funny it would increase the life. Aluminum does not like being rubbed, especially the cheap stuff. You might get a little more life by adding some Noalox, it could help.

    LOL @ "looking at it funny"

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    Mine has given up the ghost after a couple weeks, was wondering if anyone had tried helicoiling or threadserting which would be a permanent durable repair if we knew the thread pitch and diameter?

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    If these threads are on a 510 connection dont use the aluminum , the 510 thread is a M7x.5mm thread it is really fine and will strip
    If you are talking about the battery cap threads alwasy try to have dis-similar metals , the same metal type will tend to GALL or eat itself , brass on aluminum is good. Stainless steel is less likely to gall ( because of hardness) but can also.
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    Aluminum is a poor choice for durability. Brass is better but also a fairly soft metal. The most durable choice is stainless steel.

    The best approach to durability on a 510/eGo connector I've seen is on the Sigelei Zmax. Here, both 510 and eGo threads are machined from one piece of stainless steel. The removable SS top cap has been taken off for this photo.

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    I had a Private V2 aluminum for a few months, then gave it to a friend who has been using it a few months. You can tell the threads aren't as tight as they were when new, but its still fine. I even dropped it a few times. Im used to working with aluminum threaded items, aluminum is softer, so you don't screw things in tight, its that simple. If you don't wrench on the 510 connection you wont strip it.

    Idc about all the haters, I love aluminum! Awesome conductivity, super lightweight, and obv super cheap. Ok I love my k100 more now but whatever, if you can the k100 is awesome, and definitely wont be easy to strip the threads on. Its barely heavier than the aluminum V2

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