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510 passthrough in Model Specific Discussion; Originally Posted by dolvey You mention the Barleby, where are those sold? Bartleby: Bartleby Uses the 14500 battery, so longer ...
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    Quote Originally Posted by dolvey View Post
    You mention the Barleby, where are those sold?
    Bartleby: Bartleby

    Uses the 14500 battery, so longer lasting than the PT batt (10440), and it is USB chargable, so can be a PT. Getting excellent reviews. Kent, one of the vets here, loves his, as do many others. $50-$60 depending on what you want. Will take 510 or 901 atty. I specifically want a 3.7V PT I can use for extended periods offline. Don't want or need higher voltage.

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    Update: got the 10440 batts from DX. These are Ultrafire "500 mAh" (quotes are there because it is very likely less than this, according to the DX website). Also got a two-batt charger.

    I had 5 PTs that had stopped working. With new batts, three are working again, but it seems like at least one of those is not charging off USB properly. One other PT is cold and dead with the new batt, and one is intermittent. I suspect the other two working PTs also have charging issues, and this was the original problem with them. The batts just eventually drained. One of the original stock batts that came with the PT has recharged to 4.2V in the charger.

    So while I would like the PTs to charge their batts, this is a workable scenario for the time being. I am guessing that the wiring into the batt box, and also wiring out of it, is shotty and prone to disconnection. If it is on the USB-box end, then a charged batt will still power the atty. If it is at the box-to-atty end, then the PT does not fire up. The batts last considerably longer than the 510 mega batts, so I am somewhat ahead of the previous game with PTs that didn't work at all, but I may do a little exploratory surgery to see how the wiring is inside...looks like there is a phillips head screw holding the box together.

    The charger works very well, bringing all batts I've charged to 4.2V, when the red light turns to green. They are unprotected batts, so I probably need to pay attention and remove them when they are charged.

    The Bart continues to look tempting, but not a critical purchase just yet.

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    anyone notice the passthrough draws really stiff as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wall View Post
    anyone notice the passthrough draws really stiff as well?
    Haven't noticed that. That should be a function of the atty, more than what it is attached to, at least from my understanding.

    Second update: all stock PT batts that I had before, which I thought were unable to recharge anymore, have been recharged to 4.23V with the DX charger, so I now have quite a lot of PT batts. At least one PT is clearly not recharging its batt, and I suspect the other two that are working also will not recharge their batt anymore. I can hear the mods calling, like sirens...

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    I noticed my pass through has no battery compartment, just the actual battery looking thing that the atty screws into.

    And as far as it being the atty, I know that my 510 batteries have holes on the end where the LED light is, but the pass through doesnt, and it draws very differently than a normal battery, even with the same atty.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wall View Post
    I noticed my pass through has no battery compartment, just the actual battery looking thing that the atty screws into.

    And as far as it being the atty, I know that my 510 batteries have holes on the end where the LED light is, but the pass through doesnt, and it draws very differently than a normal battery, even with the same atty.
    Ah, yes, you have one of the "straight-wire" 510 PTs. Have seen them, but have no experience. It looks like it is just a full 5V from the USB right to the atty, unless there is a resister in the batt-looking part. If this is the case, and the vendor should know, or you can measure it, this PT may wear out attys faster than 3.7V. I recall one company that sold these claiming it was a 5V device, which is bit much for the normal 510 atty. I think Drew at nhaler sells high-voltage attys if you are concerned about this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt View Post
    Ah, yes, you have one of the "straight-wire" 510 PTs. Have seen them, but have no experience. It looks like it is just a full 5V from the USB right to the atty, unless there is a resister in the batt-looking part. If this is the case, and the vendor should know, or you can measure it, this PT may wear out attys faster than 3.7V. I recall one company that sold these claiming it was a 5V device, which is bit much for the normal 510 atty. I think Drew at nhaler sells high-voltage attys if you are concerned about this.
    I measured the voltage from the USB and got 4.6 volts. I then measured the voltage from a fresh battery and got 4.1 volts. I'm not super concerned about that slight amount of difference, really doesnt seem to be much more vapor than the regular battery, I would say slightly less but that might have to do with the draw not getting as much through.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wall View Post
    I measured the voltage from the USB and got 4.6 volts. I then measured the voltage from a fresh battery and got 4.1 volts. I'm not super concerned about that slight amount of difference, really doesnt seem to be much more vapor than the regular battery, I would say slightly less but that might have to do with the draw not getting as much through.
    You might be careful about what you plug it into, however. If your USB port is not rated at at least 1 Amp, the PT may fry it, and other things attached inside the computer. Many people use an external powered USB hub or an AC-to-5V-USB converted plugged into the wall. A couple people here have fried mother boards from a 510 PT. Just an FYI. The atty is drawing a fair amount of current, probably more than what is required to charge a PT batt.

    Electronic Ash sells these straight-wire PTs. I might try one.

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    the only way I could get mine to work as it should is to remove the battery in it and solder a 18650 directly on the board and tape it to the casing, so now I have a 18650 mod that work flawlessly and a usb pt in a small package. It's REALLY long to charge on usb so unless I'm sitting in front of a usb outlet for a long time I don't plug it. I soldered it with a small amount of solder on the tab so the batt will still fit in my 18650 charger.... this is my primary device as my lost my 1st box mod and my second one catched fire while I was driving so my only choice was to throw it out the window

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    Quote Originally Posted by morphector View Post
    the only way I could get mine to work as it should is to remove the battery in it and solder a 18650 directly on the board and tape it to the casing, so now I have a 18650 mod that work flawlessly and a usb pt in a small package. It's REALLY long to charge on usb so unless I'm sitting in front of a usb outlet for a long time I don't plug it. I soldered it with a small amount of solder on the tab so the batt will still fit in my 18650 charger.... this is my primary device as my lost my 1st box mod and my second one catched fire while I was driving so my only choice was to throw it out the window
    Interesting, and nice work! Makes me think I could do something similar. How can I tell with a meter whether or not the batt is getting charged by the USB power to the box. Seems the only issue is charging, as most of the PTs I have certainly vape well with a fresh 10440 in the box, but I have to change them, and overnight does not add to the batt's voltage, at least in the ones I've checked.
    Last edited by Kurt; 01-23-2010 at 11:51 PM. Reason: And if it isn't getting charged, how to fix that?

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