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Battery Voltages -- Surprise! in Model Specific Discussion; Originally Posted by player57 Now, if only somebody could make a true 3.7v eGo. V-GO 3.7v? Doubtful, but would be ...
  1. #271
    PV Master ECF Veteran Scottbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by player57 View Post

    Now, if only somebody could make a true 3.7v eGo. V-GO 3.7v? Doubtful, but would be nice if somebody could check it's voltage to eliminate possibilities.
    Did you ever see my "Dream PV's" thread?

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  3. #272
    Super Member ECF Veteran Joyimui's Avatar
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    Found something interesting earlier.... I have 2 eGos... one is from joye one is from tasty vapor.

    joye eGo is around 3.3V
    tasty vapor eGo is around 3.5V
    Vaping since April 12, 2010 :wub:
    Fistpacks / Pink BB / GLV2 / LS / BB / Lady Vypr / VP Turbo / Phidias ==> V4L / 510 Cartos / 306 Cicso Atties

  4. #273
    PV Master ECF Veteran Scottbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyimui View Post
    Found something interesting earlier.... I have 2 eGos... one is from joye one is from tasty vapor.

    joye eGo is around 3.3V
    tasty vapor eGo is around 3.5V
    Are those "under load" voltages.. or ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottbee View Post
    Did you ever see my "Dream PV's" thread?
    Yes, I did. Very nice but I'm not a "juice box" kind of guy. Had my heart set on a Super6 from SuperT Engineering (price is really no object when I consider how much I'm saving from vaping). Unfortunately I've switched to the eGO Carto's from Cignot and would have a hard time going back to any other kind of atty setup.

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    PV Master ECF Veteran Scottbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by player57 View Post
    Yes, I did. Very nice but I'm not a "juice box" kind of guy. Had my heart set on a Super6 from SuperT Engineering (price is really no object when I consider how much I'm saving from vaping). Unfortunately I've switched to the eGO Carto's from Cignot and would have a hard time going back to any other kind of atty setup.
    One of the other "features" of the Super TorneGo II (besides the juice feeding) is that I modified the Tornado battery so that it puts out a "true" 3.7VDC (no PWM). Noticeable difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottbee View Post
    One of the other "features" of the Super TorneGo II (besides the juice feeding) is that I modified the Tornado battery so that it puts out a "true" 3.7VDC (no PWM). Noticeable difference.
    I may cobble together a 3.7V setup now that I have fittings from a couple of bad 180ma batteries and try it out. Two weeks ago I was dripping using LR atties and thought that was the cats meow but now it doesn't come close to the flavor of the carto IMHO.

    Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you have charging issues after defeating the PWM on the eGO ASIC a while back?

  8. #277
    PV Master ECF Veteran Scottbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by player57 View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you have charging issues after defeating the PWM on the eGO ASIC a while back?
    I had concerns that the charging portion might not work properly after the mod.. but those concerns were unjustified.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottbee View Post
    I'm afraid I'm not even familiar with the device!
    Check it out here hello usb passthrough
    I have been happy with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottbee View Post
    I had concerns that the charging portion might not work properly after the mod.. but those concerns were unjustified.
    That's excellent news! Whenever one of my eGOs go bad I'll have to mod it for 3.7V after replacing the battery. Not being a stranger to soldering SMD components or using a lathe I'll probably just make my own battery casing allowing the use of drop-in replaceable batteries.

    So what did you have to do in order to defeat the 3.1V 'problem'?

  11. #280
    PV Master ECF Veteran Scottbee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by player57 View Post
    So what did you have to do in order to defeat the 3.1V 'problem'?
    There are two methods that I have personally used.. and of course, there are others.

    1) Disconnect the existing FET from the controller and drive (sink) the gate right off of the tactile switch. The battery will work just fine, as will the charging circuit. *BUT* the LED will give you erroneous indications and you should take care to not press the button while it is on the charger.

    2) Pull out the Joye or Hello PCB and slide a Kanger in there. Fits fine (with minor modifications) and works well.

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