Share your Soldering Tips Here

[seminolewind]

Rejoice, thanks for reminding me to load up on spare parts-just in case.

Tone, thanks for the tinning both parts first tip, it's great

kinbaloo, thanks for the tip about using sandpaper

Stormynights, Thanks for the reminder not to touch the soldering iron, Sheesh, I was just trying to see if it was hot enough!

[stormynights]

Keep some flux on hand. This stuff really helps me sometimes. Keep your iron clean. I use my rotary tool on it. Not a dremel but a black and decker that uses all the dremel accessories.

[seminolewind]

Stormy, how do you use the flux? I am a little confused about how to use my can of flux.

[seminolewind]

I have also read to clean the tip with a damp sponge frequently and keep the point tinned (solder on it, so it doesn't oxidize)

[nerf]

Originally Posted by seminolewind

I have also read to clean the tip with a damp sponge frequently and keep the point tinned (solder on it, so it doesn't oxidize)

I use one of these:
FRYS.com*|*Hakko
I find it works better than a sponge as it doesn't cool the tip down.

Use your flux on connections prior to soldering them, its a weak acid that helps to clean off any oxidation.

[mogur]

Originally Posted by nerf

I use one of these:
FRYS.com*|*Hakko
I find it works better than a sponge as it doesn't cool the tip down.

Use your flux on connections prior to soldering them, its a weak acid that helps to clean off any oxidation.

I second that, nerf, that brass tip cleaner is the best thing I've discovered my entire soldering life. Since using one of those, I haven't had to file down the soldering tip to get fresh copper exposed. My tips last forever now. I swipe the brass and immediately tin with rosin core solder every time I pick up the iron, even if it has only been a few minutes. Sounds like a hassle, but once it's routine, you won't even notice doing it. And it sure beats having to file the tip and replace it every month or two.

The only thing I flux is nichrome and stainless (and copper plumbing pipes). The acid in the flux will eventually corrode the metal and you are forced to use baking soda to neutralize it and then you have to rinse that off. Too much hassle, unless you have to.

[nerf]

There a number of water soluble fluxes available, and some that are labeled 'no clean', just look for one of those.

[mogur]

Originally Posted by nerf

There a number of water soluble fluxes available, and some that are labeled 'no clean', just look for one of those.

Thank you, didn't know about them.

[stormynights]

Originally Posted by seminolewind

Stormy, how do you use the flux? I am a little confused about how to use my can of flux.

If I have a little wire that I can't get solder to stick to I dip the end of the wire in the flux then solder.

[.308]

Don't even bother with rosin core solder, (IMO) it's too large and clumsy for small projects like this. Just get small gauge solder and separate flux. I build global marine distress signal systems all day and I can tell you that having a wet sponge on the deck of your soldering iron holder is the most efficient way to keep the tip clean and do a pretty job.

Don't scrimp on a cheapo soldering iron, you'll be sorry. Get one that has an external controller box and on\off switch. DO NOT get a soldering "gun" with the "pistol grip", precision soldering requires you to hold the iron like a pencil. I like small tips.

Stereoscopes are a good investment if you plan on soldering alot, you know, the magnified goggles? I use them for everything, not just surface mount soldering.

More heat and less contact time is better than less heat and more contact time. The latter is a good way to melt switches, chips, etc. or send a hot plasma wave through you whole circuit melting everything non-metallic.

As stated previously, tinning is the most efficient way to quickly solder components, use flux on bare wire first before tinning.