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Old 09-05-2009, 04:41 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Synthnadz View Post
Does anyone have any suggestions about a temperamental button / switch on one of these mods? I have one that is giving me serious problems. Sometimes it engages when pressed, sometimes I have to toy with it for about 10 presses just to get it to turn on. Is there any relatively easy thing to try that you think will help?

I wouldn't say that I'm 'electronically inclined', but I can certainly give any suggestions you may have to offer a shot. I'd really appreciate any input you can offer.

Thanks!
Look inside the tube from the cap end and make sure your switch is lined up with your switch button. If you didn't loc-tite or hot glue the switch assembly it could have spun out of alignment from battery insertion and removal.Also the length of the shell is a very snug fit for the 10440's, if the battery puts to much pressure on the switch assembly it could cause it to miss fire or get sticky. If the o-ring is missing from the cap that also could put to much pressure on the switch assembly from the battery. If you didnt thread the switch/pcb assembly deep enough into the nose cone that also could leave less room for the battery. I tent to thread the switch/pcb assembly into the nose cone a little deeper or offset from the switch hole in the shell to get that little extra room for the battery. Grinding the inside of the end cap is also a way to get a little extra battery room.

hope this helps


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Old 09-08-2009, 01:06 AM   #112
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The Small Piece Of Clear "Tape" That Holds The "Button" In Place WadedUp On One Of Mine Causing Exactly What You Described, Both Sticking On & Not Activating, I Ended Up Having To Discard The Piece Of Tape, Seems To Work Fine Without "Button - Tape", As Long As Button Is Properly LinedUp With The Switch ...

Cisco, Any Thoughts/Suggestions On Dealing With An Unruly Button "Tape" ???
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:39 AM   #113
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Can a standard/rechargeable AAA NiMH (nickel-metal hydride cell) be used with this?
I know it's a stupid question but I'm new in this e-cig world and just found the mod section . the advantage was that AAA NiMh are found every were and are cheaper than Lion. I was looking at the specs and maybe the nominal cell voltage 1,2V vs 3,6 is the problem. just trying to confirm that.

Is there a min/max voltage for different atomizers?

sorry for my english and thank you.
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:08 PM   #114
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the button tape seems to me to only be there to aid in the manufacture of the laser, it just holds the botton in place while the laser is assembled.

xogul , only 3.7 volt lithium 10440 will work with this mod. All current atomizer need at least 3.7 volt.
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Old 09-08-2009, 04:21 PM   #115
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xogul , only 3.7 volt lithium 10440 will work with this mod. All current atomizer need at least 3.7 volt.
Thank you for the reply. I went to the first page and started from there and noted that the same question was already answered before but I couldn't find a 'EDIT' button to edit my previous post. Sorry.

So the advantage of this mod is to get more vapour and save on battery cost? is the life of this better then the original E-cig batteries?
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:40 PM   #116
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yea , a 901 battery is rated at 180 mAh and these 10440 are about 350MaH ( although it says 600MaH on them ) so they should last about twice as long as a normal 901 battery. Plus these 10440 batts cost $2 each and a 901 battery costs what $15 ?
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:56 AM   #117
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I want to thank cisco for this tutorial as he has made this mod so simple. I'm now considered a genius among my co workers, not that it takes much to impress them. I'm the the maintenance super at a country club and almost every thing I do mystifies them. This mod with a chrome 901 atty looks so sharp it's become a hit at work. I have to buy more connectors and supply the whole staff. Just finished # 6. This thing blows my janty stick away! Thanks again cisco!
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Old 09-12-2009, 04:55 PM   #118
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Spent the morning in the garage building two almost perfect laser mods. Everything went perfect from drilling out the nose cones to the perfect size hole, re-assembled with perfect alignment, yada, yada, yada. Only one problem, they are constantly on I cannot believe that I shorted them both somehow The switchs are aligned perfectly, and did not have to use any tape on the buttons. The switches work fine. These are not my first laser mods. I made 2 others a few weeks ago, they gave me some fits building them, but they work fine.

The irony is that I thought that I had them down pat and epoxied the PCB into the nose cone...they are not going to come apart

Anybody else have a similar problem, any ideas?
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:35 AM   #119
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What atty connector did you use? if you used a 510 and had to cut the pcb and shim down that could cause a short. If you cut to much of the pcb when you re-install there is a positive trace on the pcb that could come in contact with ground, Had on that did exactly that. Other then that I would say you need to take it apart and find the short. Theres not much that could go wrong, I am sure it is something very simple, only problem it requires dis-assembly....


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazarus View Post
Spent the morning in the garage building two almost perfect laser mods. Everything went perfect from drilling out the nose cones to the perfect size hole, re-assembled with perfect alignment, yada, yada, yada. Only one problem, they are constantly on I cannot believe that I shorted them both somehow The switchs are aligned perfectly, and did not have to use any tape on the buttons. The switches work fine. These are not my first laser mods. I made 2 others a few weeks ago, they gave me some fits building them, but they work fine.

The irony is that I thought that I had them down pat and epoxied the PCB into the nose cone...they are not going to come apart

Anybody else have a similar problem, any ideas?
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Old 09-13-2009, 03:06 AM   #120
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Check to make sure the spring has not bent to the side. this happend to me twice, i'm going to move the spring to the tail cap and just leave a drop of solder on the pos end. eve if you have secured the pcb you should be able to pull the body away and get to the spring and switch.
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Last edited by wellfedned; 09-13-2009 at 03:11 AM.
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