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Old 02-22-2009, 09:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madog View Post
MU - I am having a hell of a time sourcing anything at the length around 1/2 to 1 inch that I can still see to end up with a 3-6 ohm coil - I did think about a small wire wound resistor in the 5- 10 watt range but damn they are huge I have to find a better - and convenient source for a High resistant wire that is readily available. Dan I out a probe to this thing and it is hitting Also 400 F - A little to warm I am off to find a 10 ohm resistor. Man that would be sweet and cheap even if they only last a day
Heating up a 5-10 watt resistor sounds badass! DALE makes some metal heatsinked resistors of smaller wattage ratings. They are pretty compact but hardy and underrated.

Is too much heat a problem for vaporizors? I have it in my head that high temp = instant + most vapor production but is this not true from your designs?

I need to go get an array of low ohm 1/4W resistors Monday to continue some more trialing and erring. I have only my weak-o DSE901 to compare vapor production to and so far I haven't reliably vaped more than 1drop PG/45sec with 120ohms. And I unfortnately don't have anything less. Also need to stock up on empire tubes.

This will give you the values you want @ normal temps:
Nichrome wire .003 in dia. 68 ohm/ft. Over 2000 ft - eBay (item 120380675689 end time Feb-25-09 13:40:41 PST)

All 2000ft of it, I'll go half and half on this I need some lying around anyway
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:18 PM   #32
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Interesting discussion fellows.

FWIW my usb passthrough puts out 4.23v
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:47 PM   #33
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I've been browsing around the different threads regarding rebuilding of atomizers, and think I may have found something that you guys can work with.

A poster on TW lists the resistance wire in the atomizer at .1mm. IF that's correct, that's roughly .004 inches OD, or 38 AWG. It's pretty small but easily available to the public.

Here's a good site for the technical date for Chromel-A/Nichrome 80 up to 50 AWG

http://www.resistancewire.com/Html/T...17.HAA.ENG.pdf


My question is, has anyone actually measured the wire in the atomizer so we know what size we need?
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Last edited by Ripley; 03-07-2009 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Corrected, typo from the original poster.
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Old 03-12-2009, 03:31 AM   #34
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trog has for sure and id be willing to bet hes got one of those nice michrometers or whatever there called to measure it
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:54 AM   #35
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With a ban possible and perhaps imminent, my attention is less now on making a better atomiser - it is on being able to make one at all. That is, not a better design that hopefully a company can run with but something we as individuals can put together if a ban ensues.

Any element that is repeatedly heated and cooled to a high temperature is never going to last too long because of the movement caused by expansion and contraction. Some exotic materials such as graphites and ceramics would fare much better in this respect because the element, though small would be more solid, not a fine coil. Given that the metal wicking material leading to the heater also clogs up in a month or two, the smart choice now is to work on a 2-month atomiser. So it's a matter of finding the right wire and right wick material (for inside the coil). Beyond that, modifying the atomiser case so that the inner ceramic ring, coil, metal wick (as a unit, like now) can be easily slipped out would be handy, as would a new contacts mechanism so soldering in a new innards would not be necessary (as when batteries are slipped into a torch say).

Longshot, and perhaps not very useful : If someone has interest, a pure (non-toxic, unlike a resistor) substance that might be suitable for heating (though not coiling) is graphite in the form of a pencil lead (particularly the fine ones used in retractable pencils) - these just might have a suitable resistance for a short piece.

Last edited by kinabaloo; 03-12-2009 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:50 AM   #36
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yes it needs to be 3 pieces

1 - the bottom housing that has the attomizer inside
the attomizer should protrude above the screw onto battery thread sides

2 - 2nd bit, the actual coil and bridge bits should be removeable,
click in click out so easily replaced as needed.

3 - 3rd bit, just the empty tube for length and to hold the cartridge, slips or screws over the other 2 bits to make 1 completed piece.

So --- 2 - is the hard bit, but this renewable attomizer would be a fantastic invention, and a millionaire maker !!!!!

Di .......
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinabaloo View Post
With a ban possible and perhaps imminent, my attention is less now on making a better atomiser - it is on being able to make one at all. That is, not a better design that hopefully a company can run with but something we as individuals can put together if a ban ensues.

Any element that is repeatedly heated and cooled to a high temperature is never going to last too long because of the movement caused by expansion and contraction. Some exotic materials such as graphites and ceramics would fare much better in this respect because the element, though small would be more solid, not a fine coil. Given that the metal wicking material leading to the heater also clogs up in a month or two, the smart choice now is to work on a 2-month atomiser. So it's a matter of finding the right wire and right wick material (for inside the coil). Beyond that, modifying the atomiser case so that the inner ceramic ring, coil, metal wick (as a unit, like now) can be easily slipped out would be handy, as would a new contacts mechanism so soldering in a new innards would not be necessary (as when batteries are slipped into a torch say).

Longshot, and perhaps not very useful : If someone has interest, a pure (non-toxic, unlike a resistor) substance that might be suitable for heating (though not coiling) is graphite in the form of a pencil lead (particularly the fine ones used in retractable pencils) - these just might have a suitable resistance for a short piece.
what about using something like this?

Is there a better atomizer design?

might work...
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:32 AM   #38
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Those have potential and I am still interested in a halogen bulb heater (glass surface with new mechanism such as manual switch also activates a quirt of mist via a nozzle onto lamp, no wick - though the nozzle part is perhaps over engineering), but for now feel a wire heater will be simplest. After all, it works well, and battery life will inevitably improve as new batteries come along.

Even complete atomisers are quite cheap, but it still makes sense to replace just the innards. The important thing though is how to make those innards ...

Halogen bulb heater : The GH140 (4v/4w) bulb http://www.reflectalite.com/halogenpage.html looks a good possibility ... The glass part of the bulb can snuzzle directly into the metal wick. And with no fibre part, and halogen bulb's long life - with cleaning this atomiser really might last over a year, or more ...

Last edited by kinabaloo; 03-12-2009 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:52 AM   #39
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[quote=mu.zeitgeist;104034]The Zibro-Camin must be a non-US thing. If it's similar to one of those electronic stove top heater elements I can imagine its a pretty damn powerful and long lasting vapor producer.


KEROSENE HEATER IGNITERS

Sears sells these heaters and igniters
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Old 03-14-2009, 06:29 AM   #40
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[quote=BJ43;133946]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mu.zeitgeist View Post
The Zibro-Camin must be a non-US thing. If it's similar to one of those electronic stove top heater elements I can imagine its a pretty damn powerful and long lasting vapor producer.


KEROSENE HEATER IGNITERS

Sears sells these heaters and igniters
I don't know whether or not those could hold up very long to frequent use, but looking at those pics it sure does suggest an elegant design idea for atomizer elements. It would be great to have a simple plug in replacement like that
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