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Old 03-07-2009, 07:59 PM   #1
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Default EUREKA! No-Battery sacrifice adapter for 801 Penstyle

Another forum member was talking about not being able to look at objects without thinking about how to mod them... well I've been eyeing a panel-mounted phone jack in my work elevator for about 3 weeks, but keep forgetting my pen-style to check it.

Today I made a trip to Radio-Shack.. and VIOLA! It's a PERFECT fit and no drilling necessary.

The first pick is of the connector screwed onto the end of my 801 atomizer.
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Last edited by Ripley; 03-07-2009 at 08:03 PM. Reason: DUH Forgot the pics
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:24 PM   #2
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That's great! So the atomizer screws right onto the phone jack. Does it also have terminal connections both the inner and outer??
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:34 PM   #3
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There are terminal connectors to the outer, you'll have DIY the inner terminal with a brass screw and some heat-resistant vinyl tubing. It's pretty easy, just follow Maddog's tire-chuck method.

I've done some playing already and ground down the furtherest outer ring (the one with the hook on it) and all of the inner rings and insulators pry off easily. The only problem is that you'd need to re-flare the housing to keep the last ring from falling off after grinding. I've already toasted one connector by brute-forcing a flare with a hammer, bad idea. Connector is brass and distorts easily, so either a flare-tool or some solder to hold that ring on.
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:41 PM   #4
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Some effort required then! Could be useful for those battery mods though.
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:19 AM   #5
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Thats awesome. Im gonna have to look into this. I was just at the hardware store talking to the guy about my 801 and 103 and we were looking at threads and stuff, but this is almost exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

I think I need to make a trip to the shack now.
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:43 AM   #6
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excellent!! that beats the hell out of my coax splicer solution - and just in time for my next mod
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:10 PM   #7
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I love you Ripley, seriously I got a lot of bro-mance for you. So in order to make them useful for mods all we have to do is follow the method that madog displays on his video?

Last edited by ainako; 03-08-2009 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:01 AM   #8
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LOL, Ainako.. thanks for the sentiment but I'm a female "tinker".

It's very similar to modding a tire chuck for a 901 mod. You'll need either thicker tubing or a bigger screw. I used a bigger screw. I've got a lot of misc. junk lying about, so I can't tell you exactly what size it is, best guess would be a #12, and I cut a slot since it was blunt on both ends.

I included pics below of the final product. If you've access to a bench grinder, a dremel and a soldering iron it's a cinch.

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Originally Posted by ainako View Post
I love you Ripley, seriously I got a lot of bro-mance for you. So in order to make them useful for mods all we have to do is follow the method that madog displays on his video?
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:37 AM   #9
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Don't worry bro-mance isn't gender specific, my meaning is just a strong sense of comradery. Now I am really glad I bought that dremel-like tool from northern industrial (impulse buy caused by boredom). I was thinking that going the route of the thicker tubing instead of the bigger screw would be better in terms of not shorting out the connection. Now sure if this makes sense as my knowledge and skills of electric works is limited to what I learned from the modder of this forum. Do you think 1/4" OD tubing, as used for the tire valve 901 mod, would be too small for this application?
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Old 03-09-2009, 12:54 AM   #10
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All I can say is take your mod with you to the hardware store .

I use drip-style irrigation tubing (because it's what I have). I just saw a mod by BJ43 who's used silicone. I went with a bigger screw b/c the tubing fit but slipped, the bigger screw stretched out the tubing just enough to make it a tight fit.

Check your part for shorts before connecting anything to make sure that the center pin is not touching the outer casing. Set your volt-meter on OHMs, touch your leads together and make sure the needle moves. Now check your "chuck", center pin and outer casing.. the needle should NOT move.

It's a good idea to do this again once you've got it all soldered-up as well.
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