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Thread: Some homemade attys and genesis

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    I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.

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    Akya wish i could help you but dont have any autocad drawings. BTW i want to commend you on really thinking this out and putting it together. great job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akya2120 View Post
    I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.
    Akya - now you're talking!

    I made my primitive ceramics with a torch, machined it a bit and epoxied it in position for a proper seal. It works fine. If you have the tools and means, your method will work great for fabricating on a larger scale. With regard to the 3D Autocad drawing, I have the means and software to assist - just tell me what you need - I can draw it for you. I don't use the 510 anymore - far too small. My atty's all fit onto the ego batteries and are the same diameter as the battery. I do use the same 510 screw connectors though. Explain to me how you want it to work. Central tube to draw air through or rather side vent holes on the cap? Show me the plans - I will model it for you in Autocad.

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    wow l3oertjie you are a man of many talents...what is your day job if you don't mind me asking? i've been sitting here trying to do a connector for him and keep banging my head into a wall (never learned autocad and have probs w math)
    Last edited by MadmanMacguyver; 05-11-2011 at 09:31 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MadmanMacguyver View Post
    wow l3oertjie you are a man of many talents...what is your day job if you don't mind me asking?
    Mechanical engineer in the air-conditioning industry, but only from 9 - 5. After that mad scientist and amateur lathe operator.....

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    Default Side vents

    Quote Originally Posted by Scubabatdan View Post
    Hey Asdaq,
    Check it out, finally got my stock in. Was turnin on the lathe today...
    Got the bottom part finished. A "Crossover" of a GEN and CE2, CAT5e connectors for the quick connect/disconnect, bottom air feed, coil in airflow, 2 paths for juice flow.
    Have been using the prototype (Delrin version) with out fail for a couple days now.

    Critiques welcomed!
    I made this for use on a ProVari so I am not really concerned with the support cone for an Ego, sure I could have made one but I do not use an Ego, but any other suggestions etc are welcomed

    Dan
    Dan, first of all - Critique: SWEET MAN, Sweet!

    Now, please do me a favour.

    Experiment a bit with side ventilation openings. I have had great success eliminating the central bottom feed tube and replacing it with three to five holes on the side - covered with a rotating cap to close the vent holes when not in use. You can also use the cap to partially close the holes to adjust airflow to your liking. Something like this:


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    Quote Originally Posted by l3oertjie View Post
    Dan, first of all - Critique: SWEET MAN, Sweet!

    Now, please do me a favour.

    Experiment a bit with side ventilation openings. I have had great success eliminating the central bottom feed tube and replacing it with three to five holes on the side - covered with a rotating cap to close the vent holes when not in use. You can also use the cap to partially close the holes to adjust airflow to your liking. Something like this:
    Thanks!
    Interesting, the toleance would have to be very close to the poly tube to ensure they air flow would be completely adjustable. and a deeper cup to keep juice in. but when rotated closed it should halp to make it "pocketable" with out leakage.

    Will try a version that incoorporates this idea.
    Thanks,
    Dan

    Download my Excel v13 ejuice calculator Enjoy!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akya2120 View Post
    I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.
    I drew up a 510 connection. Unfortunately; besides the actual threads and area used to connect the battery connection to the atty connection, every piece I have is different! I bought a few connectors from libertyflights and some from goodprophets. The darn diameters on the press fit section are up to .004 different from each other. Anyway, I'm just going to machine the pieces to fit the connectors since they shouldn't need to be replaced any time soon.

    I thought as you did at first too, I wanted the CAD for the connectors, but everyone said I was better off buying them, so I did, and I agree. Goodprophets has the 510 connectors for 99 cents a piece. Not even worth messing with for that price.

    As far as the shrink with ceramics. I use calculations to deal with shrink in plastic injection molds, PTFE molds, and patterns all the time. If the % stays pretty much the same it should be able to be compensated for right? For instance, if your shrink is 4% and your outside diameter that you want is 2.0, you would take 2 X 1.04 and actually mold your part at 2.08.

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    Regarding the vent holes, what is the benefit of using five small ones versus one or two larger "slots"? It would allow adjustment from all the way open to totally closed and would only have one potential point of failure instead of five. In fact, if desired, you could flange the inner piece to fit into the slot, keeping it in place so that it doesn't stray or become hard to locate, or cause any undesired twisting of components.

    Just a thought.
    Home-brew is mastic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi View Post
    I drew up a 510 connection. Unfortunately; besides the actual threads and area used to connect the battery connection to the atty connection, every piece I have is different! I bought a few connectors from libertyflights and some from goodprophets. The darn diameters on the press fit section are up to .004 different from each other. Anyway, I'm just going to machine the pieces to fit the connectors since they shouldn't need to be replaced any time soon.

    I thought as you did at first too, I wanted the CAD for the connectors, but everyone said I was better off buying them, so I did, and I agree. Goodprophets has the 510 connectors for 99 cents a piece. Not even worth messing with for that price.

    As far as the shrink with ceramics. I use calculations to deal with shrink in plastic injection molds, PTFE molds, and patterns all the time. If the % stays pretty much the same it should be able to be compensated for right? For instance, if your shrink is 4% and your outside diameter that you want is 2.0, you would take 2 X 1.04 and actually mold your part at 2.08.

    If you have a controlled shrinkage clay body yes. Typical ceramics I will come into contact with are a range of shrinkage, like say 8-12%, but this is for throwing on a pottery wheel. The kind of clay I use will fully vitrify at high fire temps(Cone 9, ~2300 degrees F) but does shrink without control. If you or anyone is going this route, go to the laguna clay co website. They have all sorts of clay bodies as well as stuff for special order.

    I am using old connectors from atty's. Way way easier, If I run out of those I will order them.

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