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A circuit for temperature control of the atomizer coil in Modding; Originally Posted by kinabaloo Thanks mogur. My meter batt. not replaced yet as haven't had chance to go out. Was ...
  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinabaloo View Post
    Thanks mogur. My meter batt. not replaced yet as haven't had chance to go out. Was also wondering about the resistance of the juice (say 5mm gap) and also of the deposit material (if you have a nice chunk to examine).

    ps: some interesting results by Exogenesis on the atomiser deconstruction thread.
    Going out, but will check that later, thanks. No, I wish I had saved my chunk of glazed wick material, but didn't. Will also check resistance of the juice when I get back.

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    Super Member ECF Veteran boxhead's Avatar
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    thanks mogur my mind is what i miss most to. variac was on a big plate on side of it.
    anyway of making one with a light dimmer?
    SD with 901 lots, 801 often, and 510 some....AND now I am a TankDriver yeah!

  4. #33
    PV Master ECF Veteran kinabaloo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mogur View Post
    Going out, but will check that later, thanks. No, I wish I had saved my chunk of glazed wick material, but didn't. Will also check resistance of the juice when I get back.
    Good work !

    Just touching a deposit coated coil would give an idea if the deposit is at all conductive (due to tin content).

    Off to dreamland. Back tomorrow ...

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by boxhead View Post
    thanks mogur my mind is what i miss most to. variac was on a big plate on side of it.
    anyway of making one with a light dimmer?

    Hehe, I'm no EE, but that depends on the application. Dimmers usually chop the duty cycle with triacs. That will give you less rms volts for things like resistive lamps, but they don't cut the peak voltage. To weld, I simply don't know. That is a current thing, I think, and our coils are current things, as well. So, I wouldn't encourage you to try it, but....

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    Super Member ECF Veteran boxhead's Avatar
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    well im going to try my hand at making a atm soon, and since may reading everthing here at ECF do take a lot of my time, i am collecting things to use and info to use it with.
    SD with 901 lots, 801 often, and 510 some....AND now I am a TankDriver yeah!

  7. #36
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    Well, most permanent (sorta) atomizers put their coil in a ceramic bucket with wicked (capillaried) fluid in front of it and a coil wound around an absorbent core. The guys that designed this are not idiots, they are probably way beyond me. But they are constrained to build something that works and is disposable. It's Shick vs Gillette. We are Shick. We want something that works better and lasts longer.

    Their solution to atomizers that crap out is to build an even cheezier one that can be thrown out with every cartridge. And it doesn't matter if it burns the cartridge wick. Our attack has to be a non-disposable atomizer that lasts and doesn't burn. We are probably launching against windmills, but hey, it's fun.

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    I get about .85 megaohms with the electrodes almost touching in e juice. Goes up to 3 megs at about a cm apart. Doesn't seem conductive enough to affect the heater circuit at all. But that is just this one type of juice. It's Marlboro flavor, and can't remember where I got it.

    The melted/charred core and/or juice residue probably doesn't have much conductivity either. Glass is one of the best insulators, and it doesn't seem likely that juice would become conductive when the volatiles evaporate.

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    Not sure if you are still watching this thread but I was also thinking of leveraging the temperature coefficient in this way and this sounds like a really clever solution. Do you still have the schematic? - it is no longer showing.

    I would expect this to have some advantage in that it should adapt to the amount of juice saturation, especially with cartomizers where the amount of liquid against the coil is perhaps less constant. I.e. when there's a lot of juice against the coil it should need more power to come up to temperature as the heat is being sinked away quicker.

    Have you thought of capturing the voltage drop at the first instant the atty is fired, and then using that as your reference (modulo some target V drop) for the duration of the vape? I might use a microcontroller but maybe you could do that too in analog land, eg with a fet and capacitor to "save" the reference. This would mean you wouldn't have to calibrate for a particular atty, and it should keep working even if the coil resistance drifts over its lifetime.

    Are you still using this circuit? Would like to know how it's working and if you think this is worth pursuing.

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    Super Member ECF Veteran Shad0w's Avatar
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    I would love to see the circuit as well. This is the first I have seen this thread and I would like to play with the idea.

    Does anyone have this saved and could you please share?

    Regards

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