G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread

[perlionsmitnick]

It has to he cut slow to avoid the "gummyness" nice job on the polishing Dan.

That's good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[Killjoy1]

Payment sent!

I rounded the amount up just in case my calcs were off, so it's probably a few cents extra

[MikeE3]

I found this thread when it was a number of days old. After reading just a few posts from the begining, I place an order for 2 units for my wife and myself. Then I went back and read the entire thread and have being doing so ever since. There's been a lot a questions and good answers. Following are the Q&A's up through Page 29 / Post#282. I know I'll be re-reading this before doing my assembly (I'm one of the novice newbies to building something) maybe it'll be useful for someone else too.

The orignal co-op posting with specifications is here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...zer-co-op.html

FAQ Follows:

FAQ:

Does the tank work well? Does it need maintenance?

Post #12

I have a g-tank and it's the best atty I've ever used hands down. You will love it. No leaks, wicks perfectly (once you understand how much mesh to use for the wick). You will regret not owning one of these.

Post#14

Using the same configuration for 3-4 weeks, only washing it every 4 or 5 days, it really is highly recommended.
Do not miss this.
Cheers all.

Do G-Tanks vape OK with high % of VG?

Post #19

Shouldnt be a problem Bigwill, I run 100% VG in both of my G-Tanks with no problem at all !!!

Is the assembly a simple matter of screwing the unit together?

Post #27

The only PITA factor is the 0-80 ezloc insert. It must be pressed into a .096" hole at a depth of .125" Then the 6-32 nylon screw must be center drilled with a 1/32" drill bit, and glued/screwed into place and cut at the proper height. The rest is easy, glue the PTFE tubing in, glue the nylon wahser in place and insert the nylon spacer over the ceter pin and assemble. The .5" 0-80 screw must line up with the floating brass 0-80 tapped hole and screwed into place. Other than that a breeze LOL
Dan

Will I need a lathe or drill press to center drill the nylon screw

Post #43

I was going to pre drill them all. I have a jig made and can do it quickly.
Dan

Post #58

Non assembled ones will recieve the screw predrilled, just have to screw and glue and trim to height. Assembeld it will be done for you.
I made a jig so one end is tapped for 6-32 screw and the other end is a 1/32 hole. works acurate and fast.
Dan

What glue do we need to use on the PTFE and nylon washer again? Thanks for doing this co-op!

Post #57

I used gorrila glue on mine, just a dab and it sets up quick and non-toxic when cured (24hrs).
Dan

Does the glue hold up to e-liquid?

Post #63

Been using mine for over a month and no problems.
Dan

Would it be possible to convert this into a standard atomizer

Post #62

LOL now you suggest this
Well I dont have a problem with it, great idea.... here comes the but.....
I factored everything at cost, so the SS standoff spacers are 1.86 a piece and the SS scews are .08 cents a piece. At last count we had 304 units requested, that is an additional 589.76 that I would need to layout to cover everyone since I have not fudged to factor in extra parts.
Here are the standoffs, and SS screw McMaster PN's: Standoffs - 92321A007, SS screws - 91772A059
More than welcome to mod the mod
Dan

Can it be setup to use as a bottom feeder?

Post #65

Hmmmm maybe I misunderstood, this is not set up for a bottom feeder nor can it be. The brass center pin is to small in dia. Now you could remove the mid section, configure it like you suggested and install the cover, but you would have to sacrifice a cover because you would have to drill a 3/64 hole in it. This would convert it to a dripper.
Dan

Added:
Or had I been thinking I could have had a different top made half the length with a hole drilled in to it to convert the G-tank-us into a mega dripper

Future mental note for dripper co-op. Too late in the game now
Dan

Added:

Here is the Idea I had:
Attachment 59078Attachment 59080
This cover would be 7.75 extra we would need a 100 commited to make this cost point.
Dan

Will it work / accomodate use for those of us that drip?

Post #70

Ok to clarify.......

I will entertain a drip tip cover, I already have the file made for processing. I just need 100 units to be spoken for and are ok with the additional $7.75 a unit. If we dont get 100 min units spoken for then it gets dropped and life goes on and you pay at the end like normal. If we get 100 spoken for those people that want them tack on an additional $7.75 per cap they want. So with the drip cap here is all the configurations possible:
Attachment 59083

Drip, T-Tank, normal 3ml, and XL 5ml!

I call it the end all atomizer!
Dan

Will extra parts like bottoms be available to purchase to have different configurations.?

Post #77

I will not give the option of extra bottom, that would be a nighmare with 4 additional parts to deal with. One drip top no problem I can handle that! we are at 5 committed drip tops 95 to go.
Dan

With the Dripper Top, do we then just need to buy our own standoffs, and SS screw from McMaster? (PN's: Standoffs - 92321A007, SS screws - 91772A059)

Post #90

Yes up to you if you want the extra parts, and it is just change a screw and add a spacer, no drilling to change the configuration over to a dripper.
Dan

Would it be possible to get clarification on actual assembly?

Post #92

The only place I show assembly is in the scubagen thread.
Scubagen Mods
I have not done a tutorial yet, was going to during the lull in waiting for parts.
Dan

What extra stuff are we going to need to get? and is this going to be that hard to put together?

Post #106

Sorry I missed you Q: only thing you will need is SS mesh and Kanthal. If you are mechanically inclined you will have no problems.
Dan

Could some please post links to specific Kanthal wire and SS mesh that's advised to use? Regarding Kanthal wire, which type will provide which resistance with specific amount of wraps?

Post #120

Ok guys for the stuff you need for the drip needs to be order from McMaster. They only send UPS or Fedex both will not send to a po box. any idea where i can get what i need thats P.o box friendly. also Dan will you ship USPS? not sure if i miss that or not.

Post #121

Yes USPS, I will give out the DC# on a case by case bases, as it would take me all day to PM everyone the DC# I did this the last co-op and only had two we had to track down. And they were overseas. I had a 100% recieved last co-op this way.
I do not know of a P.O. box freindly company that carries them but will look around.
Dan

Does a 510 drip tip fit in the top of the tank?

Post #132

Yes it fits all three tops.
Dan

What does the drip top look like?

Post #139

Ok so as I told Ed-209, I was out on the lathe making a mega Drip Top...... Wanna see????

tehehehehe

Here it is, its so cute!
Attachment 59289Attachment 59290

Oh and.... Yeah it works
Dan

Where would we get extra mesh,wire and wicking material when it needs to be changed will u have that info for us as well when the ordering closes. And instructions how to change it, will an avg. vaper be able to do it?

Post #163

I can provide it now... The SS mesh is the wicking material, and you can get it from The Mesh Company: Online Shop for Woven, Knitted and Perforated Mesh for Art, Craft, Floristry, Modelling and Engineering 400 SS mesh

The A-1 32ga Kanthal can be gotten here: Resistance heating wire, Kanthal A-1 32 awg 75ft | eBay



I will be working on a tutorial for build up, teardown and wick assebly during the part making process.
Dan

Post #170

SS Mesh is also available in the USA from McMaster-Carr.

85385T885 Corrosion-Resistant Type 304 SS Wire Cloth 400 X 400 Mesh, .001" Wire Dia, 12" X 12" Sheet 20.58 each

85385T883 Corrosion-Resistant Type 304 SS Wire Cloth 325 X 325 Mesh, .0014" Wire Dia, 12" X 12" Sheet $13.39 each

When I purchase from McMaster-Carr my items arrive the next day, as they have warehouses all over the US. The shipping is normally <$5.00 and you will have to pay local taxes with your online order if applicable.

ETA:

These sheets are larger than the A4 sheets that The Mesh Co sells. However, McMaster-Carr doesn't give you any free sheets of Superfine Mesh.

Are the threads for the cover that has the drip tip and the cover that goes over the heating coil the same?

Post #166

Yeppers, aint it wonderful!
Dan

I am new to vaping but am looking for an improvement on my eGo-T. Is there anywhere that I could get more information about this, or could someone give me a basic idea of what this is? I have no idea what a rebuildable atomizer is so this is why I ask

Post #169

A replaceable coil is just that, rather than use a atty/carto ect and throw them away or have a box full of dead ones you simpley unscrew two screws and remove the heating wire (kanthal). It cost about 0.01 cent to replace as you can get 75' of 32 AWG Kantahl on ebay for 4.50. So in 75' if you use 1.5" per coil you will be able to make 600 coils for 4.50, 600 attys say at 5.95 a piece is 3570.00.

Pic of replacable coil on the G-Tank-US, the wick is 400 weave stainless steel (center piece sticking up) that has been heat treated (oxidized) so it does not conduct electricity. Also there is no batting material, so the taste is CLEAN!
Attachment 59422

Hope this answers you Q, if you have anymore post them
Dan

How does the tank come into play and would this system work on my regular ego batter?

Post #174

The tank fits over the top of the wick upside down.

Yes, it will work on an eGo battery, just don't use too low of an Ohm coil.

Post #175

Check out the very first post on the classified co-op ad, he has different pics of this

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...ml#post4415308

When the kanthal is replaced, will we need to oxidize it?

Post #173

just the mesh, and once you get a good mesh wick going it doesn't really need replacing

Will the post be pre drilled? Or no? I read somewhere it was, I think.

Post #183

There are two holes in the main combustion chamber for the post, one is the negative that is .096"w x .125"d that will have an ezloc 0-80 insert pressed into it. The other the positive is pre tapped for 6-32 and the 6-32 nylon screw will be pre-center drilled again by me and included in the non assembled orders. So the 6-32 nylon screw will need to be glued/screwed into the hole and trimmed to a hieght of 1/32" off the floor of the combustion chamber. Then the .5" SS screw and 3/16" SS spacer are screwed into the 6-32 nylon screw until they just protrude one the other side. The the brass piece has its 2 nylon washers glued in place and the nylon spacer slid over the .118" brass center post. And then you align the tapped hole in the brass piece with the .5" SS screw and screw it into the brass.

LOL dont worry I will be doing a video on buid up and tear down.
Dan

Would someone mind explaining to me why I should want this?

Post #185

The reason you would want this is that you will never need to replace it. Yes it costs a years worth, but the vapor and flavor are better than any carto could hope to do and when you pop a coils after about 3 or 4 months of abuse it only costs you about 1 or 2 cents wotlrth of wire to replace it.

That and it just looks cool

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Post #186

And after a year you can still rebuild it... You can get 75' of Kanthal from ebay for 4.50, that is 600 coils. If you replaced the coil whether it needed it or not every 30 days, your wire would last you 50 years. Plus there is no batting material, very clean taste and holds 3ml of juice.

Dan

Post #188

600 Cartos is roughly 120 packs and the lowest I've seen them in the U.S. is about $5.99 a pack so that's about $718.00 vs. getting one of these at $71.89 without any dripper top, etc.

The DIY attys are not for everyone but for those that are OCD like me that wants to know exactly what I am vaping it is nice. I've done all kinds of attys, cartos, dual coil, ce2's, etc. and while I prefer the ease of cartos with less leaks and fiddling, I just don't like seeing burnt\scorched filler every time I am done with a carto and I even use a juice tank and get no dry\burnt hits at all while I use it? The savings alone is enough for me but along with being able to customize it with different size tanks as well as being able to drip, not to mention that it isn't that large (TWSS) as other rebuildable attys.

Don't get me wrong, there will be a trial and error period where you have to find your groove if you've never built your own wicks and coils but it doesn't take long and after that it's smooth sailing.

Hope that helps some?

Post #189

Well put. At first there were a handful of us doing this, but since the popularity of co-ops I think newbies need to realize this and hang in there w/ it.

After that you're rewarded by vaping indepdendence

How do you make the wick and prepare (oxidize) it?

Post #193

Ok so here are the dimensions for the wick of a G-Tank-US, I am using 400SS and cutting it into 15mm wide strips. I then cut 30mm lengths off my strip so I have a 15mm x 30 mm piece. I Then took a paper clip and straighted it, and then wrapped the mesh piece around it, so it is 1/16" x 30mm long. At this point it is ready for oxidizing.
Attachment 59481

Oxidizing:
Ok now that it is rolled tight around the paper clip, we need to make the SS mesh so it will not conduct electricity. To do this I use a butane tourch to heat up the SS mesh red hot, and the immerse it in water. Do this 4 times.
Attachment 59486

Now drip on some juice so the wick is wet and light it on fire, do this 3 times
Attachment 59487

Now use a regular lighter and just heat up the entire wick and immerse in water, it will turn black. This is the sooting up process. do this three times.

Now you can wrap your heating wire around it. I usually do 4 wrap, gives me 1.8ohms. I then soak with juice and light it on fire again, twice. Then soot it up once with a lighter.

It is ready to install, I have had 100% success doing it this way, with no shorting.

Dan

Post #196

Yes a standard A4 sheet will yield 140 wicks this way
Dan

How is the vapor and flavor?

Post #199

I know you were asking of Loreros, but I will answer from my experiance. I have both bought and built genisis attys and I can tell you the flavor is night and day. The SS wick is the cleanest flavor you will get from any non genisis atty/carto. And I, like others have found that you will need to lower the nic content, for some reason it intensifys the nic effect.
Hope that helps from my experiance.
Dan

Post #201

Yes, I am speaking from experience . I do not own a US G-Tank yet, but I have a number of genisis mods. I own a G-Tank, a Hybrid Mini (moderately modded to suit my tastes), an iAtty that I converted to Genisis and a handful of home-made genisis experiment atties. There is simply no such thing as mass produces atty that beats genisis for flavor, TH or vapor.

This is simply because you are in control with anything Genisis. You set the amount of juice by how you roll the wick, you set the resistance and the temperature of your vapor by how long you make the kanthal and you set the draw (if you are brave enough to take tools to your toys ) and you control the TH by what mesh screen you decide to use over and above the ratio of PG/VG you vape and how much nic you add.

I can get as much or more vapor and heat from a genisis atty at 3.7v that standard mods need 6v and HR atomizers
to achieve and above all that you get the cleanest, best tasting vape possible from a genisis mod.

Now that all the positive points are there, there is one thing to keep in mind. You are not likely to get it just right the first time you pot a wick and coil together. This comes with time and can be a little frustrating but if you have patience and take the time to master the skills needed to consistently get a good result you will not be disappointed.

I have never had a friend or ecf member that took this advice tell me that they were anything but amazed by what they were missing before going to a genisis.

Can a novice assemble one of these? So even an assembled g.tank we will need to build, oxidize, and install the wick? Or these instructions are for replacing?

Post #209

When I said a cut to 1/32, it is a nylon screw, so you can trim it down with an xacto knife, it just need to be higher than the bottom of the base so the SS spacer does not touch the ss base. But it is all screwed together with 0-80 screws. I would say my 12 year old could put one together with instructions.

As stated in the OP of the co-op, this does not come with SS mesh or kanthal, it will have no wick or coil in it when you get it.
Dan

What is the difference between a G-Tank and a US-G-Tank?

Post #209

The difference is between G-US and G is tha the original G was 5/8" in dia, and used a S wire to go from the screw to the center pin for power, and had one option for a tank, 1.8ml. The G-US uses a brass plunger that the pos post screws into, and it has 4 options, 3ml tank, 5ml tank, T-Tank adapter, and just added for 7.75 extra a dripper top atachment. So you vary your vaping experiance.

Dan

Can someone explain the difference between the different mess as it applies to our application.

Post #217

Here you go, from the man himself...

Originally Posted by raidy 
I ordered it at ebay in germany. You find in also in ebay usa: "screen stainless
steel". I prefere 300-400mash.
lower mash (250-300) = stromg flash, low steam, 400mash=much
steam lower flash
Kanthal is also in ebay.
You need 0,16-0,2mm diameter ore about 80-100Ohm/meter.

Flash = Throat Hit
Dampf or Steam = Vapor

325 SS Mesh = Higher Throat Hit, Lower Vapor.

400 SS Mesh = Lower Throat Hit, Higher Vapor.

It has also been stated in some posts by ECF members that the lower 325 Mesh will wick better with thicker VG juice blends. However, I have not tried this to verify it.

I believe that you can get most VG blended juices to wick with the #400 SS Mesh and if you have issues with it wicking it may be due to how the wick was rolled.
You can also thin out your juice a little bit if needed, to get it to wick good with the #400 Mesh. The DIY E-Liquid sub forum on the ECF here has information on how to thin your juice.

Edit to add:

BTW, I like throat hit and get plenty of it from using the #400 SS Mesh, don't be fooled by the #400 SS Mesh being stated as lower throat hit.

What does a polished G-Tank-US look like?

Post #254

Well I finally got around to polishing the G-Tank-US, I started with 400 grit sand paper, and finished with 4000 grit sand paper, the results are very nice!
Attachment 59886
Dan

[bp400]

[QUOTE=MikeE3;4466596]QUOTE]

that was very nice of you, good job

[urquidezj]

Dan I'm super swamped at work with rush order at the moment can you please give me my total if possible? I'll make payment when I get off work. Lmk thanks for all your work

[radwor]

Dan I'd like 2 DTs and your email for payment.
thanks

[Scubabatdan]

Dan I'm super swamped at work with rush order at the moment can you please give me my total if possible? I'll make payment when I get off work. Lmk thanks for all your work

Dan I'd like 2 DTs and your email for payment.
thanks

PM's Sent,
Dan

[Scubabatdan]

Nightly Update:


Dan

[Led Hendriani]

I posted this on the Scubagen Mods Thread but may have more luck here! :

Does anyone have a sheet or even a half sheet of 400 and 325 mesh that they would sell me?

I would like both if possible!

Also maybe 10 ft or so of Kanthal?

I figure if anyone does, this is the place to ask!
Thanks!

UPDATE: Only seeking the 400 and Kanthal now!
Thanks!

[alekos557]

Uhh Dan, you only have me down for paying for one...It's two paid for.