Everything that could go wrong did

**dseanor** · 11-23-2009, 02:25 AM

I Follow Nerf's Suggestion, Scrape All Lands Off The PCB ...
Except The Solder Points For The Switch & Spring ...

On The New Style "Green" PCB's ...
With The Spring Pointed Up & Looking At The PushButton Switch ...
Both Terminals On The LeftSide Of Switch Are Laser Battery Connection ...
Both Terminals On The Rightside Of Switch Are Atty Center Conductor ...

**indyxlt** · 11-26-2009, 04:00 AM

Hey everyone. First post so here goes my cherry. Vaping about a month and a half but these 901 batteries just are the worst. Exploring all the great creative mods here and have just ordered parts for Laser Pointer. I like that it's small but also have a $4 flashlight just in case. As I mentioned these 901 batts just suck so I'll have no ill feelings destrying them for a mod. However, my question is regarding auto vs manual batts; is there any difference in the connector end of the different batteries? Is that where the "auto" switch is located?

Thanks in advance for your help and also for posting complete descriptions, pictures, vids, part #s, etc.

No clever signature yet.

**Kewtsquirrel** · 11-26-2009, 05:32 AM

The switch is located under the connector on the auto batteries - the connectors are all the same for allowing airflow, with the exception of the 510, some of them will have a hole, some will be sealed.

**bg458** · 12-04-2009, 04:37 AM

Weird just got the new version of the lazer pointer for some reason I was playing with the lazer pointer (before moding) and it only seemed to work with the battery in it backwards? Positive down towards end cap? Anybody else see this?

**vVegas** · 12-05-2009, 05:21 PM

This is normal in many laserpointers. The LED can only light with correct polarization.

**smc** · 12-06-2009, 08:40 AM

I ordered one of the laser pointers about a month ago. Today I decided to give modding a try. My plan was to mod the laser pointer from deal extreme with a 510.

Disassembly of the laser pointer went quite well. Upon removal I noticed I had the new green PCB. Cleaned all solder points for the capacitor(?). All is good at this point. Getting a 510 out of a battery case is a pain in the ass. My first try was a failure (so I thought). The next time was a success.

(I did notice you can buy the 510 battery connectors for around 3 bucks a piece, but the shipping is 5. Might as well buy a battery. At least I get a switch with it.)

After looking at the battery connector it became apparent I would have to shave it down. I ended up shaving it all the way down to where it looks very close to the battery connector of a 901. I further shaved off some of the outside just below the divits/grip.

Dumb assery ahead... I solder and then string the wire from the post. However, I had not yet screwed in the PCB. Big mistake. It ended up ripping the wire from the post. I did not notice this and went ahead and assembled it. Ahhh shastic. With the PCB inside the tube I could not use a socket. you get the point. Vice grips into action. Top piece is now nicely marred.

Now I unscrew and attempt to to solder a new wire to the post while it is in the top. After numerous tries I noticed I had totally fried the insulator. I went ahead and pushed out the post. While I had it out I shaved it down so that it only protrudes trough maybe a milimeter or two (it is really tight in there due to battery connector being flush with the top). Now I very carefully wrap it in electrical tape. This time I screw in the PCB and then insert the post. Before soldering I check to make sure voltage is runnig through the switch etc....

Now while I am assembling I break the spring. That damn spring sucks. I rip open an old X10 motion detector and grab the spring. While I am trying to wind it around the post, the mother fken post breaks. Well screw it... I soldered the dam spring to one of the posts for the switch with tons of solder on top... for support.

Now I assemble it and for fk sakes it does not work. I unscrew the base and notice it is flat and not beveled (as mentioned in another post). I throw a flat spring in the base.

It works now. At least I know what I am in for the next time. I am going to order another one so I can at least use the battery connector I thought I had messed up. I had cut it short, but as I found out you have to do that anyway.

A BIG THANK YOU to Cisco and every one else that has contributed to this thread. I could not have done this without all of you.

Credits...
Cicso
Everyone else
Dremel
Makida hand drill
bernzOmatic torch/soldering iron
Patients

First build 6hr (30 min dissasemby, 5 1/2 hr of dumb assery)