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My DIY - DSE901 - MAGNUM POWER in Modding; Frankie - when you're ready to mod, the best way to remove the connector from the battery that I've seen ...
  1. #121
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    Frankie - when you're ready to mod, the best way to remove the connector from the battery that I've seen is to take a pair of channel lock pliers and clamp down hard on the battery tubing just about 1/2" below where the connector is glued. it'll flatten the tube out, then turn the battery case where the flat side is vertical, and flatten it again. The connector will loosen right up and you can just pull it right out of the battery casing with a regular pair of pliers. Just be careful and grab the base of the connector, not the threads. It only takes about 10 seconds.

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  3. #122
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran nicowolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankie View Post
    I would like to ask, if I may: My son bought a DX flashlight which would be perfect for a first test mode when my first battery dies, but it runs on 3xAAA like this: It seems to me one of the big bad strong high mah batteries should be of the same size as the 3xAAA thingy, but I do not want to buy one after one just to try. Could you help me with this? Which of the big batteries has the same size?

    The one thing the Chinese are consistent about, at least on DX are physical measurements - electrical measurements are not as accurate (batteries are cosistently overrated). There is a method to the numbers associated with the batteries. The first two digits are the diameter of the battery in millimeters - the 14500 is 14mm in diameter, the 18650 is 18mm in diameter. The next two digits in the number are the length of the battery, again in millimeters - the 14500 is 50mm long, the 18650 is 65mm long.

    This gives you a number of options. You can use the existing 3AAA battery holder with the 10440(same size as AAA). You can measure the 3AAA battery holder and see if one of those batteries fits. You can measure the area you plan to use the battery in and use the nearest size battery to the size of the space. If you choose the last option, you can do all your soldering, then see how much space you have left, maybe you could use 2 batteries in a series like Madog did.

    Hope this helps. It took me a while looking at the site to figure out the connection with how they named their batteries. I do have to say though that I like that system way better than the letter system we use for other batteries.
    tlsmith1999 likes this.

  4. #123
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran nicowolf's Avatar
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    Ok, I just took the time to measure one of my 3AAA battery holders from just such a flashlight. It is 25mm in diameter and 50mm long. So it could be replaced with a 25500. This is also the size of a regular C size battery. You couldn't really use a regular C size battery though, because you would only get 1.5 volt maximum from it - not enough to do any good for your ecig. DX does carry a 25500, though. I only know because I have been to their site brainstorming a lot lately.
    Last edited by nicowolf; 01-08-2009 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Realized too late that a C battery won't work.

  5. #124
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    Doing the flashlight mod is interesting to say the least, but I have concerns about the implementation of a square wave input to the atomizer, switching current on and off might damage the atomizer quicker if it has any inductance to it. If it has enough inductance you would also probably find that the atomizer takes longer to heat up because it fights the flow of current.

    If it is straight up resistance you would be ok with the wave and should end up with the same temperature you were getting wiht a contant draw if you tune the circuit properly. Ideally you might want to put a capacitor after the wave generator to keep the output voltage from fluctuating too much, but with limited space this may not be an option...

    When you tested the aaa battery holder with the atmoizer did you happen to see how much current was actually making it out of the batteries? it might make sense to just find batteries that can supply the current needed to the atomizer to get a desired result. It might end up being cheaper if you can use 2 sets of rechargeable NiMH aaa batteries instead of alkalines if they are up for delivering the needed current. It would be even better if you could find a cell that is a little shorter than a C that puts out the needed current and voltage so you could build in a USB rechage circuit! but thats just super geeky

  6. #125
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran nicowolf's Avatar
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    Ok, what I have done so far - and please keep in mind that I am a complete newb at this whole electric and soldering thing.

    I had a broken wall charger, so I took that apart and salvaged the part where the battery connects. I took that part apart and found that the original problem was in there, but the board was too far gone at this point to repair the whole charger. At this point, I repaired the problem inside the little housing where the battery is supposed to connect to the charger, then connected this little housing to a 3AAA battery holder with some PVC electrical tape. It worked - it charged batteries, but I had to undo half my work every time I needed to change the AAA batteries. Next, I wired that same little housing to a USB male connector. After much frustration, I found that I had the polarity reversed on my wiring, fixed that problem, then my ugly USB charger worked. I was worried I might harm my computer using this thing, so I scrapped the idea.

    Next project. One of my batteries died and I was dying to try this Magnum Mod. I played hell trying to get the fitting off the end of the battery - I think Madog must have a grip of steel. I took apart the little connector housing from that first project and salvaged the little nut that was serving as the negative terminal. I screwed this nut onto my dead battery, then used pliers to grip that nut and wiggle the connector free - the added leverage helped loads. I did manage to complete the Magnum Mod on one of them cheap little LED lights from the Dollar Tree, but my soldering skills are horrid and I have now broken one leg off my switch. I replaced the switch, but now have the same problem with another switch. I can't seem to get my little wire soldered on to the leg of the switch without making the switch leg very brittle. My plan is to mod my mini Maglite, but I don't want to sacrifice my Maglite until I can make it worthwhile.

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    ensure you aren't using way too much heat when you make the solder joint. overheating the legs on components can cause you a ton of issues. I have even melted switches by holding in on there for far too long in the past.

    try tinning up (as minimal as possible) the leg and the wire. and then connecting them with as little heat as possible. hopefully you will get a better result. especially with a cheap iron that has no temp control.

    I used to do xbox mods and soldering onto circuit boards with a cheap iron teaches you some handy cheat methods very quickly! also check your solders with a magnifier, don't pull on the wires

  8. #127
    Super Member ECF Veteran madog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicowolf View Post
    My plan is to mod my mini Maglite, but I don't want to sacrifice my Maglite until I can make it worthwhile.
    Nico - do you have a Harbor Freight in your area ? You could just grab a two pack of the alumminum ones I have used.

    What do you have as a power source are you using the li-ion's from deal extreme or are you just using rechargables? You really need rechargable li-ion (They have a higher duty cycle) to apperciate this mod -
    HAPPY Vap'in - :cool:
    "Said no to Tobacco on 10/23/08 & YES to my MAGNUM"

    DIY Projects w/Video: Magnum Mod - Tire Valve Battery Connector

  9. #128
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    whoops, mispost
    Last edited by jarvis; 01-10-2009 at 01:46 AM.

  10. #129
    Ultra Member ECF Veteran nicowolf's Avatar
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    So far, I am just using NiMh rechargeables and cheap aluminum flashlights from the Dollar Tree; trying to get better at the soldering skills before I destroy something more expensive.

    I have some other ideas too, but at the moment I want this mod bad enough to attempt it myself. In time I want to do a mod with 2 14500 batteries - that seems to me to be about the right amount of voltage and mAh.

  11. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicowolf View Post
    So far, I am just using NiMh rechargeables and cheap aluminum flashlights from the Dollar Tree; trying to get better at the soldering skills before I destroy something more expensive.

    I have some other ideas too, but at the moment I want this mod bad enough to attempt it myself. In time I want to do a mod with 2 14500 batteries - that seems to me to be about the right amount of voltage and mAh.
    1 14500 battery will be fine. If you just have to run 2 of them, run them in parallel so you maintain 3.7v but double your capacity. IMO if you're concerned about capacity build off a single larger battery like the 18650 @ 2500Mah. a single 14500 or CR123 900mah will provide you with a full day worth of vaping, and it's small. If you build a larger battery source you'll probably get tired of lugging it around every day, they are not small enough to easily fit in your pocket. I'll give my 18650 mod one thing... it sure does last a long time.
    Last edited by Bastage; 01-10-2009 at 05:10 AM.

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