Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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  1. #1
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    Default Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

    A while back bapgood got me started on CADing mod designs, so I started playing with a concept for a 3D printed bottom feeder. He was nice enough to lend me some of the elements he used for his SXS to get me going. (So a big Hat Tip to baps). The objective here was to get a squonker design in the smallest amount of space possible. While squeezing in a DNA chip between the juice and battery compartments was a challenge, the toughest part of the design was to get all the wiring connections aligned and into a top cap that was removable for battery changes and juice refills. The mod holds an 18650 and 6ml juice bottle and a number of parts came from MiikePetro and Tibs' co-op but are readily sourced on line. (Faddydaddy 510, copper disc, screws, spring, etc.) The mod has seven printed parts: the body, the base cap, the top cap, the button, an internal removable spacer for the battery compartment and a small positioning piece and a firing pin for the mini tact switch. The juice bottle compartment is fully sealed off in the body from the DNA chip and the battery.


    Dimensions are 3.5” x 1.9” X .87”. Here is a comparison to Tibs for size.


    Rough layout for parts and wiring.


    Painted and partial assembly.


    Magnets, spring pin connectors and terminal turrets installed.


    It works!


    Final assembly.


    One thing I noticed is that the shapeway material while durable and strong, can deform. The top cap started out flush to the body, but after a lot of handling and probably from the counter pressure from the battery spring, the material bowed out about half millimeter. I swapped out the spring with a much softer one and the top relaxed a bit. I think the big win here was that the spring pin connectors and terminal turrets held power all the way up to 30 watts. I wasn’t certain, even though the spring pins are rated to 20 amps, that at the actual connection point to the turrets they wouldn’t get hot enough to melt the plastic. So far so good.

    This is a first prototype. The build works, its noticeably light and holds well in the hand, but like anything else, going through the actual build from a design on ”paper”, a lot of improvements/changes become more obvious. So… this is prototype #1. Prototype #2 (major redesign) is on order and prototype #3 is being finalized.



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    That's awesome - even though there are some improvements to make. I hadn't even thought about 3D printing for mods. I am into liquid feed myself - just love it.
    gdeal likes this.
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    How much did it cost to build, I know the electronics are the biggest cost. It looks great. Will heat deform the plastic in time?
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    Gdeal, that is just great, you had me at turrets. I marvel the mechanical fire switch with the DNA (at least I think it is) and certainly recognize Bap's bottom panel.

    One thing I disregard by reflex is having attracting magnets mixed with an opposing battery spring and here you have three spring loaded turrets and a battery spring that can handle the 30A, so it must be fairly beefy still, even after changing it out. Are the magnets that much stronger to counteract the springs, or are the springs that much softer than I envision?

    This just rocks, and if you need a beta tester for either prototype #1 or #2, my calendar is open.
    I'm just a Brass Monkey and Mods are my Bananas

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    Very very nice!!!
    Cool_Breeze and gdeal like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwivap View Post
    That's awesome - even though there are some improvements to make. I hadn't even thought about 3D printing for mods. I am into liquid feed myself - just love it.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by jlbchelsea View Post
    How much did it cost to build, I know the electronics are the biggest cost. It looks great. Will heat deform the plastic in time?
    Most of the hardware was sitting around, so I havent price out the actual cost of components yet. The cost of the 3d print parts was ~$50-$60 but it really depends upon type and amount of material used. Here, I used the least expensive material type "white, strong, flexible" and tried to minimized material volume to the max for the prototype. I like the Alumide material much better (smoother and doesnt need painting...but more $) Then maybe another $25 to $30 in parts (?) So. I would guess under $150 including the DNA Chip. The material can handle some heat, but heat wasnt the issue here, the connections didnt overload, the issue was that #$% first spring I used.

    Quote Originally Posted by asdaq View Post
    Gdeal, that is just great, you had me at turrets. I marvel the mechanical fire switch with the DNA (at least I think it is) and certainly recognize Bap's bottom panel.

    One thing I disregard by reflex is having attracting magnets mixed with an opposing battery spring and here you have three spring loaded turrets and a battery spring that can handle the 30A, so it must be fairly beefy still, even after changing it out. Are the magnets that much stronger to counteract the springs, or are the springs that much softer than I envision?

    This just rocks, and if you need a beta tester for either prototype #1 or #2, my calendar is open.
    Sharp eye! yup, that's bapgoods bottom panel. (why reinvent what works..., plus bap's CAD skills are top-notch). I had the same concern with all those opposing forces, so I used four 2lb cylinder magnets to keep it together. It holds very well, but is not difficult to remove the top. The issue with the gap occurred with the heavier (and unnecessary stronger spring under the battery) and because that upward force is toward to end of top cap away from the magnets in the center. After the change to the lighter spring, it wasnt pushing it up, but the top cap was already deformed.

    Its not a mechanical fire switch and the spring isnt part of the circuit. Its just there to keep the firing pin raise off of a tact switch in base. (another idea borrowed from Bap). There is a cool uber small tact switch (bapgood again...) sitting on top on the DNA screen and just below the battery. The battery sits on the firing pin aligned with tact switch button. The copper disk in the firing pin provides chip power. The throw is beautiful. Its adjustable from the thumb screw in the button, I have it set so the firing pin rests right on the tact switch. Its click-on- click off in ~1mm.

    I have prototype #2 coming in a couple of days, its got major improvements in the design....if it seems like it will work I'll post up a parts list and link for printing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by bapgood View Post
    Very very nice!!!
    lol...it should be nice Professor Bapgood. I had a good teacher.
    asdaq, Vince159 and Gigdujour like this.



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    Yea, great job. I defiantly in love with this idea and form factorm

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

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    The battery depresses the micro switch? Too cool!
    I'm just a Brass Monkey and Mods are my Bananas

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    Very cool build!

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by asdaq View Post
    The battery depresses the micro switch? Too cool!
    Yes...here is a snap-shot of the firing mechanism. (I changed it slightly when I built the mod though). Its pictured in the full opened position. The battery sits on top of the copper disc. The spring, (not shown) sits under the copper disc holder. The firing pin which comes from the bottom of the disc holder goes through the center of the spring. The tact switch holder also acts as a base for the spring and secures it in place. So the spring just provides pressure on the battery between the copper disc (positive) and the thumb screw (negative) to keep full time power to the chip.


    Squonk V1 - Firing Mechanism.jpg

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