+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 7 of 7
Wiring a Momentary Switch - Help Needed in Modding; I am really having a hard time visualizing how to make the momentary switch on my magnum mod work properly. ...
  1. #1
    Super Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    792
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default Wiring a Momentary Switch - Help Needed

    I am really having a hard time visualizing how to make the momentary switch on my magnum mod work properly.

    I haven't had a lot of time in the evenings to sit down and work with it.

    I'll preface this by saying that electrical work and wiring isn't really my strongest department.

    I've got all the components needed to make the mod work, but I just need to know how all the wiring shakes down to make everything function.

    I made a quick diagram to show all the components. If you can just tell me how the wiring all connects, I would be forever grateful.


    Last edited by D_Struct; 02-27-2009 at 04:41 PM.

  2. Advertisement
  3. #2
    Full Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Midland, Texas, United States
    Posts
    133

    Default

    What you need is the negative end of the battery to connect to the outer ring of the atomizer and the positive end of the battery to connect to the inner part of the atomizer. The switch breaks the connection between the negative end of the battery and the atomizer and only reestablishes the connection when you press it.

    If you are using the same flashlight as in Madog's video, the negative connection is made by the flashlight housing contacting extra solder on the outer ring of the circuit board. Then a wire is soldered from the outer ring of the circuit board to the outside of the atomizer. So in your diagram the switch will be between the negative end of the battery and the flashlight housing.

    I hope this helps.

    Oh, and make sure your switch is of the normally open type.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #3
    Super Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    792
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default

    udave: Thank you so much for your insight on the wiring. It is greatly appreciated!

    Thanks to you, I've got my Detonator up and going. It's working great!

  5. #4
    Full Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    LongIsland NY USA
    Posts
    116

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by D_Struct View Post
    I am really having a hard time visualizing how to make the momentary switch on my magnum mod work properly.

    I haven't had a lot of time in the evenings to sit down and work with it.

    I'll preface this by saying that electrical work and wiring isn't really my strongest department.

    I've got all the components needed to make the mod work, but I just need to know how all the wiring shakes down to make everything function.

    I made a quick diagram to show all the components. If you can just tell me how the wiring all connects, I would be forever grateful.

    The screwdriver has the ground prong bend and soldered to the base (outer shell) and the other prong bend and touching the battery with a piece of hard plastic in between so the to prongs don't touch each other.
    switch8.jpg
    the red is a piece of hard plastic like flashlight lens

  6. #5
    Full Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Midland, Texas, United States
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by D_Struct View Post
    udave: Thank you so much for your insight on the wiring. It is greatly appreciated!

    Thanks to you, I've got my Detonator up and going. It's working great!
    Anytime. Glad I could help out.

  7. #6
    Super Member ECF Veteran youfillintheblank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    927

    Default

    I made an addition to my Magum mod. I was having a hard time keeping the negative connection from the circuit board to the flashlight case. So, I drilled a hole next to the switch and screwed in a steel screw. Then, I soldered a separate wire from the negative pad of the board to the screw and voila! It keeps it's connection. as long as the screw stays put on it's own it should be fine for a while. I'd send you a pic, but I don't think it would help, since I have all my wiring and switch packed in glue to keep it from moving around.
    Cheese graters could also be marketed and sold as sponge ruiners. Think about it.

  8. #7
    Super Member ECF Veteran
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    703

    Default

    I tried to do this yesterday with the romisen rc-a8 torch. I got stumped on the part of moving the spring to the opposite end. There seems to not be enough room to solder the sucker on there.

    EDIT: Got it now, just needed to pop the circuit board out.
    Last edited by ainako; 03-02-2009 at 08:55 AM.

+ Reply to Thread

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

SEO by vBSEO