EUREKA! No-Battery sacrifice adapter for 801 Penstyle in Modding; ...
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Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Here are a few more pics showin the parts used...
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Looks great! Nobody at the home depot knew where the hell the nylon spacers were so I decided to venture online and found these RSN-04/12 Nylon Spacer, 3/4" Long x 0.187" OD x 0.115" ID for #4 Screw Size - SmallParts.com It says its for a #4 screw and they have others that say its for a #2 screw. Does that matter at all? I haven't ordered any of them yet as I was not sure if that detail about the screw sizes matters or not.
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Senior Member
ECF Veteran
I'll double check the size when I hit up my hardware store tomorrow. If you have a Lowes, or ACE hardware, you'll be able to find them. That would be your best bet so you can test fit everything.
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Originally Posted by
ainako
Just picked up a couple of these today, its amazing how well they fit. Had a little trouble prying off all the rings and ruined the flange a bit. But I think its ok as I'm not really saving any of the rings. I watched madogs tire valve video and noticed that he drills holes for better flow that would equal an easier draw. So I got to thinking that if I can source some brass tubing and use that instead of the screw, and insulate with silicone glue instead of tubing (I imagine that it would be hard to push the brass tubing through the insulator tubing). This would eliminate the need to drill the hole as it would be much closer to the design of the original fitting. The only drawback I can possibly think of is the wall thickness of the tubing and whether or not it can handle sending the current to the atomizer. If that is the case I suppose a flaring tool would be in order. So I was hoping if anybody that is more knowledgable in these type of things can tell me whether or not my idea is possible or not.
I have used brass tubing from a hobby store and sahrink wrap as an insulator. I don't think that the tubing is necessary for airflow. They also sell solid round brass stock in like 1 foot lengths cheap.
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thanks for the heads up on the brass tube, but I decided its not worth the hassle anymore.
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Hi, Can you post what the inside of the finished product looks like? thank you.
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to ceo
I went to another home depot thats close by (wierd that there are no loews or ace close by me but 2 home depots) and I am sure that the one you used cannot be the 3/16" OD nylon spacers, they are just to small. 1/4" on the other hand fits better but will probably require glue to fasten it. So the size of the nylon spacer you want should be 1/4" and possibly 5/16" maybe but probably not, if the one you have required some forcing in it was probably the 5/16" if it looks like it covers all the inside but goes in and out smoothly its the 1/4".
Last edited by ainako; 03-17-2009 at 01:40 AM.
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Nice this means I can make a manual switch pass through quite easily for my 801 now! It sucks since in the car I have a killer sub setup that at like 1/4 volume sets the batteries off. The spare Im not too worried about since its just the LED lighting up, that shouldnt kill the battery (I would think, its only an LED for 15 mins or so, which was lit up when I got the package so it was lit most of the way from china and still had power left to vape). However this could burn up the atomizer since it would be running damn near nonstop.
So basically I could screw this in (after adding center screw), hook up the + and - from a usb cord (switch on the + duh) and be good basically? Also which is which on these for the polarity? Sorry for the questions, I just got my be-112 (aka dse-801) and NEED a manual switch passthrough for the car. Curse my sound system for hampering the e-smoking!!!!
Last edited by Extremeodd; 03-20-2009 at 01:17 AM.
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[quote=
...Also which is which on these for the polarity? ...![/quote]
It really doesn' matter but, most people do center pin positive. (That's the way it is to begin with.)
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Well I just got done making my usb manual passthrough and it works like a charm. For a small case I used an old car adapter dongle and the inside was perfect, a little cutting away of stuff and everything went in just fine. The cable is a bit short for my pc but I need to get a powered usb hub anyways. Its the perfect length for the car however. Now I might make a battery pack with the other switch and connector, or something.
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