EUREKA! No-Battery sacrifice adapter for 801 Penstyle in Modding; I didn't realize this post was about a battery pack, I thought it was about making passthroughs, so I went ...
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Super Member
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I didn't realize this post was about a battery pack, I thought it was about making passthroughs, so I went to work on that.
Considering I have spent over $100 on passthroughs that are now dead, I had been on analogs for the last 3 days waiting for my stuff to come in. I had to do something quick.
I followed the posts here with the Radio Shack phone jack and bought the smallest momentary switch available and came up with this:

The box is an empty pellet box from my dad's pellet gun, just to hold the connections. The wife says it's looks, well you know, but I'm off analogs.
I couldn't find a tubing for the insulator, but I found this at the local hardware store. I'ts a 1/4" x 3/4" nylon anchor for drywall and a 4-40 x 1 1/4" brass screw. I figured the anchor would spread and hold onto the inner wall of the jack and since the screw head was small enough, I didn't have to modify that.

I did, however have to trim the head off of the nylon anchor. All I did was chuck it up in my drill and ran it on some sandpaper until the head was gone.
This is the best a sheet metal guy could do with limited electronic knowledge. And here are a couple more pics.


This is day one, so I really don't know if it will last but, we'll see.
-Paul
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you will be surprised on how long the manual switch usb lasts even if it is a DIY. The thing that seems to go bad in the passthroughs is the plunger switch. I found that a 1/4" OD nylon spacer with a #6 brass screw works best. Although you do have to secure it with some hot glue. great job on the mod paul!
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Thanks for all the great info here. I'm determined to make a couple of these 801 battery box mods for me wifey and myself. It may take a while since my favorite tools are my Kubota taractor and a 24" chainsaw.
I wish I found this thread before I went to ratshack for the boxes, switches and phone jacks. I was pretty confused when I checked out the phone jacks and was wondering how to make a connection until I read about the brass screws and nylon sleeves.
Now trying to dissect a phone jack so it will physically fit inside of a AA box. This will be a challenge for the mechanically challenged. Maybe I'll have things ready before my batts and charger get here from China. LOL
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Just a quick note: these 1/4 inch mono jacks are used on a ton of musical instruments. I just had my janty classic atty sticking out of my telecaster. Took off the retaining screw, and it screwed right on. You can find very pretty versions of these jacks at music stores. I'm already imagining a neat retro mod based on the stratocaster jack plate.
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Senior Member
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Originally Posted by
breakfastchef
Sorry to drag up an older thread, but I wanted to share the new way I create a center conductor for 801 mods using the Radio Shack 1/4" mono phone jack. Thanks for that find, Ripley!!
I had varying degrees of success and failure sleeving a screw in a tube and inserting into the phone jack. Most failures occurred when too much juice seeped into the atomizer connector and loosened the adhesive holding the tube and screw. The other problem was the varing depth of the center conductor from an 801 to a 4072 to a BE112. I was constantly using my staple mod to get a connection.
About two weeks ago I visited a relatively new True Value Hardware store nearby. They have the absolute finest collection of bits and parts I have ever seen. I walked with a few short, hollow, 1/4" O.D. nylon spacers last week, hoping to use them with my last 801 Magnum build.
The photo below shows the my new favorite way to make a center conductor for the 801 connector.
The nylon spacer can be set at any point below the deepest of the center conductors of your atomizer. The spring can stay proud of the entire connector and will retreat into the nylon spacer as the atomizer is screwed on.
This is a great innovation.
It solves the problem of bad connections between the atomizer and connector that is common to most of our mods.
I had placed the spring behind the center conductor and using a 3/16" insulated sleeve, allowed the center contact and sleeve to float in the 1/4" hole, which works quite well.
This idea is much simpler, however and has fewer "moving parts" which is always better.
This would be a great "sticky" as well.
Sorry for the thread drift.
The second mouse gets the cheese :D
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Super Member*
ECF Veteran
OK, am I completely losing it?!
Been working on a "Magnum" mod for the last week or so using this as my connector. My 801 attys just came in today, and will not fit. They are way too big, so it's not even a close one.
ETA- Nevermind...I am a complete tard. The retaining nut for the connector was blocking it from going all the way down.
Last edited by MidnighToker; 07-21-2009 at 08:52 PM.
“If voting changed anything, they'd make it illegal.” - Emma Goldman
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That's a great find ... now I wonder if it will fit my m201 atty I heard that it's a different thread. Well I guess I'm off to the rat shack in the morning to see if it fits.
Thanks
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Super Member*
ECF Veteran

Originally Posted by
Carlos49
That's a great find ... now I wonder if it will fit my m201
atty I heard that it's a different thread. Well I guess I'm off to the rat shack in the morning to see if it fits.
Thanks
Glad I bumped it for ya. This should really be a Sticky. Works like a charm.
“If voting changed anything, they'd make it illegal.” - Emma Goldman
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Originally Posted by
MidnighToker
Glad I bumped it for ya. This should really be a Sticky. Works like a charm.
Great .. thanks for the info
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