On my Sentinal clone I had to enlarge the air holes in the Protank base since the 510 connection is flush and blocks the airflow.
For wicking I found that even fresh from the box Protank heads would flood after a short while, especially when the tank was down to half full, and after a bunch of experimentation and reading the forums I bought some Peaches & Creme white cotton yarn and replaced the stock Protank top wick with 2 pieces of that. Instant fix and have been vaping on the same wicking for 24 hours straight without a single flood, gurgle or burning taste. At $3 or less for 109m of the stuff the yarn is now my favorite wicking material hands down and only takes about 10 seconds to swap out, using it straight cut from the ball of yarn!
Can you describe how you enlarged the air holes? I'm having the same problem on my Sigeili 8
I am using an ego-c and want to get a protank 2. I saw that there are different ohms for replacement wicks and now I am not sure what to get...any help in that area would be appreciated. How do I know which one is best for me or how to figure out which ones will be good to try in the future.
sent from my phone via tapatalk 2 because I can't stop reading and posting on ECF
Tanks : Tank Airflow Controller
Got mine Monday and it does tighten the draw on the ProTank. However, at least with my PT2, it also inhibits vapor production.
Also, I strongly disagree with the suggestion of removing flavor wicks. If anything, I add to them or replace them altogether with even more wick. Those things are there for a reason.
Check me off under the 'me too' category.
- I thoroughly wash and soak my heads before use
- I have removed one wick, both wicks, everything except what's bound in coil, all with different heads for testing
- I've kept my voltage considerably low. Currently I'm at 3.4v @ 2.7 ohm
Guess who still has burnt heads? Yep. This guy. The only saving grace that could prevent me from throwing this thing in the trash will be the wick/coil coming in the mail. I hope (hope hope hope hope) that rebuilt heads will prove to make this device... well... usable. Yep, I said it.
Are you sure that you have genuine KangerTech equipment? If you do, the company logo and model will be stamped or engraved on the bottom ring.
Have you tried replacing the coil heads with KangerTech blister-pack packaged versions?
Are you priming the coil before using? Fill the tank, close it up and set it aside. Find something else to do for about 15-30 minutes, then start slowly.
I have never had a burnt taste, leaking or gurgling problems (that I didn't cause my own fool self) with any of my genuine Kanger gear, and I have a boatload of it.