Bought a Tesla, and questions...
So last week I picked up an Ego-t and some goodies. It's been doing a good job of helping me kick the smoking habit, but I was unimpressed by the performance. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't good enough to make me completely forget about cigs. A little research lead me to think maybe the problem was my ego. So I've stopped in a few head shops (I travel a lot for work), and the place I stopped at today stocked Teslas. I wanted an MVP, but they didn't sell them. So I stuck my evod on the Tesla, and huge difference. I could taste the juice better. The throat hit was better, everything. So I bought a Tesla, and a new bottle of cola flavored juice. I'm still new and learning the terminology, but I'm using me Tesla with an evod, a carto tank, and I think a clearomizer, and they all seem to perform well.
So I got my Tesla, and other than the customer service at the store (a story for another time) I'm happy. So here's my questions: So I have variable voltage, and variable wattage. How do I choose the right setting for my tank/evod etc? I understand the electrical theory involved, I know what volts, watts and ohms are, but I'm not real clear on how they all work together to provide a good vape. I've done some searching, but haven't found much info. Lots of vids and reviews by people that already know what they're doing, but not a ton of info aimed at someone with no variable power vaping. So, and hints or link to a decent primer would be much appreciated.
Wattage and voltage are two separate components... you don't set "both".
Switch to watts, pick a number... around 8-9 is good to start. The microprocessor will adjust voltage based on your wattage setting and the resistance read in the atty. It's sort of a "set it and forget it" in that if you change attys to one with a different resistance, it will read that, and adjust voltage to suit.
Switch to volts, and whatever you set it at... hopefully the correct voltage for the atty resistance, and that's where it stays. Like 4.2 volts for the juice and atty you're running? Good... it will stay there all day.
Need a chart? There are a million (OK, maybe a few hundred) to be found on the interweb.
Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the Tesla. I am going to get one, most likely off of Ebay.
Thanks for the info. I do realize you only set one or the other, but it's still a bit confusing, even with the charts, which seem to mostly only list voltage. I get that I can set a wattage, and it will pick its own voltage, or vice versa. I guess what I don't understand is, why would I adjust one over the other? If the brain of the mod is always going to pick the best setting for one, and let me pick the other, what's the difference? I guess my main question is, if I get to set one, and the Tesla is going to set the other, what criteria do I use to choose which I set and which I let me Tesla set.
Love my tesla, despite it being a bit... odd looking
No, I don't mind, but be warned, I probably paid more than I had to or should have. I paid $130 for a black Tesla, with 2 batteries and a charger. If you're buying online, chances are, you'll get it cheaper than I did. I knew I was paying more than an online price, but I'm ok with that. I'll usually pay more if I can buy locally and actually see and feel the product before I buy. If I was more experienced, I probably would have bought online to save a few bucks, but since I'd never actually seen or held a Tesla (or any other mod) in person, and I had some questions, I wanted to buy in an actual store where I could see some mods and talk to a person.
Originally Posted by NickCage
Originally Posted by kella
Yeah, it's a little odd, but I kind of like it. All the tube type mods look odd to me. Sort of like the type of thing that one might buy in an adult toy store. But I'm ok with that. And I'm a gear head and hobby machinist, so the machined aluminum looks sort of appeals to me more so than one of the smooth shiny tubes. But that's a personal thing. I like stuff that looks machined more than stuff that looks stamped.
Actually... not true. You set the voltage, and it's set, even if it's wrong. You set wattage and it will adjust voltage based on resistance and microprocessor parameters... but it may not be "perfect".
Originally Posted by nitsuj
The idea of adjustable voltage is so you can fine tune your power for a particular atty style, with a particular juice. For example, fruity juices sometimes taste better at voltages lower than a chart, while strong tobacco, coffee and chocolate are sometimes better at higher than chart values. Wattage settings don't know this... they just do the math and let it bump.
Wow. I'm way confused. These don't work how I thought they did. I'm still not sure I get it. I have some research to do. Ok, let's say I go off one of the tables. My Evod is showing 1.9 ohms. So my voltage should be 3.3 and my wattage should be 5.5? So I set in those numbers, and the microprocessor does the rest?
Nope. I personally never set any VW device below 7.5-8 watts, but then I never use an atty with a resistance higher than 2.2Ω
Originally Posted by nitsuj
On voltage adjust settings, your "chart voltage" could end up anywhere from 3.0 to 4.1... depending on your tastes and the juice used. If you set the wattage at 8 watts, the mp will read the atty resistance and set voltage at a value based on what ever Vamo has calibrated it at... which would probably around 3.9 volts.
On VW, should the atty resistance change, say due to coil decomposition, the mp will read that and jack the voltage up. On VV... it's fixed at what you set it at.
I think... you are being overly cautious. Try the EVOD at 8 watts, or 4 volts... and see what you get. Too hot or too burnt tasting, lower the V or W. Too cold or little flavor... jack it up a bit at a time. There are no chiseled in stone values... other than perhaps the extreme ends of your device, which are 3-6v and 3-15w I believe... about the same as most other VV-VW devices.
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