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Thread: Protank 2 Microcoil Vapor Issues

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sthur View Post
    I use 30 gauge microcoil with 8 wraps on 1/16 drill bit. I ended up at 1.8 ohms with boiled cotton wick. Using plastic cup upside down. Works great. Was my first pt coil rebuild too.
    S you got the ticket on a great vape. Make sure you're low in the slot your end turns are tight into opposing legs at termination and you're good to go. I've posted some remarks on this thread on how to easily make the wind tight. You might want to take a peek…

    Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

    Specifically…

    Torsion wind of a contact coil...Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

    Good luck!



    p.s. Let us know your end resistance.
    Last edited by MacTechVpr; 12-07-2013 at 08:45 PM.

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  2. #32
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    I have a quick question if you don't mind.
    I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
    I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
    I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
    I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
    It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
    What is causing this?
    Thanks in advance!
    EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping
    Last edited by Hivemind; 01-12-2014 at 08:54 PM. Reason: additional info

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hivemind View Post
    I have a quick question if you don't mind.
    I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
    I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
    I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
    I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
    It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
    What is causing this?
    Thanks in advance!
    EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping
    At ~1.6Ω initial I'd surmise your wrap was fairly loose. That is to say a hand wind and your leg termination had too much room to wander when you set. So your initial read may have been higher than actual, your subsequent read reflected the short. There really can't be any incidental contact of either leg lead and the only way to avert that and the bad performance after is to build tight. I mean we're going to go through the effort we might as well reap the reward, right? I think you get my meaning hive, I just hate to see people struggle. Only thing I know how to recommend is to get it as right as rain.

    If you've read the thread you know I'm recommending tension winding so we don't have to worry so much about the coil itself. It's formed and staying that way after it's locked in place and pulsed to reinforce the wind adhesion after termination. That's the issue here, you want to pay particularly close attention to the direction the final turn is pointing on both sides and terminate those legs in those respective directions at the grommet. So you have legs terminating opposed, yes; but, specifically in the direction they come off the wind with tension applied by hand or with a utensil like a forceps to finish tightening the end turns as you insert the grommet, then pos pin.

    I saw a video today of a smart young man, well done, demonstrating how he had carefully terminated the legs directly opposite. That's swell. Problem was they were lined up along the axis of the coil. So my question is — did he bother to check if he had crossed them as he did it. If you understand this, you've got it. You understand why that direction and tightness is absolutely essential. And most of the instruction I see on this forum is only half the story.

    How are we, newcomers, supposed to be able to do this a piece of pie at a time?

    More details on this and tension winding on…

    Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it

    Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!


    I'd suggest if the wire you're getting is not spooled, to try and find something to spool it on from which you can feed it comfortably. Also to stretch any bends or folds which might bind it during a wrap. Rolling it out first on a feed spool will help minimize that possibility when you do wind eventually. You'll see my other suggestions on wick and diameters on the above threads as well.

    It's a patient process the first few times hive. But thereafter as you gain some muscle memory yourself, it will start to become second nature and you'll be hitting resistance targets with greater ease. Then if you've get the tight build thing down that proper coil will give you in all likelihood weeks of reliable service.

    Post or PM me if need be, and

    Good luck.

    Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity—Seneca the Younger

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hivemind View Post
    I have a quick question if you don't mind.
    I just got into rebuilding my Protank II coils this past week.
    I bought a 3-feet of 28-Gauge from kidney puncher and used it all in about a day of miserable failure lol.
    I was wrapping it around a 1.4mm precision screwdriver because that is the only one out of the set that will fit in between the base.
    I made one seemingly successful microcoil, but I noticed something wierd.
    It sits around 1.6-1.7 ohms but if i screw my tank on snug it drops the coil into sub ohm territory in which my lavatube v2.5 will NOT fire below 1.2ohm. Do I have a short somewhere?
    What is causing this?
    Thanks in advance!
    EDIT: I have 25ft of 28-Gauge on its way. Snagged it cheap for $5 free shipping
    Check the ends of the wires where they poke out of the head at the pin/grommet. When I've seen a short while screwing the head on, it has because one of those ends wasn't snipped off quite right and eventually contacted the threads as it was screwed in. Use toenail clippers to cut them off close.
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    100 feet of Kanthal $5.48 shipped! Have done business with them before and very quick shipment..

    Kanthal Wire 30 Gauge RW0107 - 100 FT 0.39oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG

    Various gauges available..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flavored View Post
    Check the ends of the wires where they poke out of the head at the pin/grommet. When I've seen a short while screwing the head on, it has because one of those ends wasn't snipped off quite right and eventually contacted the threads as it was screwed in. Use toenail clippers to cut them off close.
    You know you were dead on here flavored on the resistance dive as a likely pos short. I took the opportunity to add to this thread and steer the convo to the general Protank Microcoil disc. Lots of talk there, lots on how devastating hangers are to the vape. Hey, thanks for taking up the slack. I didn't pick up the question posed to me. Appreciate that.

    Good luck and take care.

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    Quote Originally Posted by waterjuice View Post
    Yeah i saturated it and seen that it created vapor but when Rip did it his firing produced more, before the assembly

    Im 70% satisfied with the vapor production, flavor is awesome tho.
    I feel like im so close! lol
    I know I'm way late to this party but something that I heard a while ago will give some perspective. It may sound silly but take a vid of you vaping your setup and you will see a bit of a thicker cloud when on video. It has something to do with the way the camera picks up light. Try that and see if you see more on the vid than irl.
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    I too, use 32ga for my protanks.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMFire3605 View Post
    Vapor production also goes hand in hand with air flow, and there is not much you can do to get more air flow without an airflow controller or modifying you Zmax's air flow channels, or the base of the protank and center pin of the head on a Protank2. Another thing, why oh why do people use 28ga or larger wire in a Kanger style head when using a regulated device, that is a another factor of your vapor production, 28ga at that many wraps takes to dang long to heat up, thus why you are having to crank it up to 11.5watts. Step the wire thickness down to 30ga maximum, plus you also have to remember, look at what device Rip Trippers usually has his atomizing devices attached to, a Phazed DNA20, also have to remember he has most his atomizer attachements modified for maximum output for high power output and doing lung hits most times during his demonstrations. Wanting to fog up a room with a Protank design, find a Protank1 someone doesn't want anymore, its airflow is far better than the Protank2 which is more restricted, and it can be done because I have done it, but only with a Protank1 using a 0.7ohm nano-coil head with a cotton wick on a SmokTech Natural and SmokTech Magneto, both mechanicals, using MNKE 18650s with a resetable fuse on the battery, but still I am not getting anywhere near the clouds Rip Trippers is doing.

    A properly built 30ga micro or nano coil in a protank, should by my experience produce triple the flavor of a stock head, twice the throat hit, and twice the vapor of a stock head in an Evod, T3, UniTank, or Protank2, Davide, or other such device using a Kanger style BCC head, Protank1 and possibly a Tatroe or Davide tank might reach the Protank1 with four times the flavor, twice the throat hit, and triple the vapor, but as I said above to achieve that you are needing a sub-ohm micro or nano coil on a Mechanical, going that route, cloud chasing, better start doing your research into RDAs, battery chemistry and safety, ohms law, and sub-ohm safety, you'll not get massive vapor out of a Glassomizer/Clearomizer class bottom tank system, they are not really designed to be fog machines.

    I think I have not much more to add to that, its also important after building your coil and placing the cotton wick into it to prime it. Then let it sit there for about 10 min.

    Next, try to go from 6.5 to 11 each level up you should take a couple of puffs. Wait about 30 seconds and up the level of power one notch.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agamer View Post
    I know I'm way late to this party but something that I heard a while ago will give some perspective. It may sound silly but take a vid of you vaping your setup and you will see a bit of a thicker cloud when on video. It has something to do with the way the camera picks up light. Try that and see if you see more on the vid than irl.
    Absolutely awesome observation. Why didn't I come to that conclusion earlier. My wife is a prof. Photographer, and she confirmed your theory right of the point. Light + Smoke + Video lens = EXTENSIVE SMOKE in any video, if you do not use a Lens filter

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