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Thread: Protank 2 Microcoil Vapor Issues

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    Default Protank 2 Microcoil Vapor Issues

    I am having a problem with vapor production when microcoiling my protank 2.
    Wraps are very tight evenly, reads 1.8ohms, not touching metal.
    Using cotton wick, and flavor( tried without and still no production).
    Also tried putting silicone on and off

    I have tried multiple times and do not know what the problem is?

    Has anyone had this problem before?

    I need a solution to start vaping away!

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    used a 5/64 drill bit.
    torched also.

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    I generally use 28 ga, 8 wraps for a 1.6 ohm coil, no flavor wick. You burning up the cotton?

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    I use 28 with 12 wraps.

    Cotton is perfect when coming out i get nice flavor but not clouds of vapor like Rip Trippers Youtube Tutorial

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    What voltage? Check your battery's output voltage with a multimeter to verify?

    How's your wick through the coil? Too much/too tight and the juice can't get to the coil efficiently; too loose and it'll flood. It should be loose enough not to feel resistance when you try to pull it out of the coil, but not so loose it'll fall out.

    Have two wicks? One for the coil, the other to carry juice in from the tank?

    What kind of glow do you get when you dry burn? Just install the head and base on your battery, remove the top post, and inspect that you're getting glow.

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    running 11.5 watts.
    wicking seems to be perfect, made sure it wasnt too tight or loose.
    the glow burns from inner to outer bright and evenly
    and i would install the atomizer head then lock it into my zmax

    I mean flavor is good vapor production is OKAY, but its not producing the vapor i've seen on the video

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    Vapor production also goes hand in hand with air flow, and there is not much you can do to get more air flow without an airflow controller or modifying you Zmax's air flow channels, or the base of the protank and center pin of the head on a Protank2. Another thing, why oh why do people use 28ga or larger wire in a Kanger style head when using a regulated device, that is a another factor of your vapor production, 28ga at that many wraps takes to dang long to heat up, thus why you are having to crank it up to 11.5watts. Step the wire thickness down to 30ga maximum, plus you also have to remember, look at what device Rip Trippers usually has his atomizing devices attached to, a Phazed DNA20, also have to remember he has most his atomizer attachements modified for maximum output for high power output and doing lung hits most times during his demonstrations. Wanting to fog up a room with a Protank design, find a Protank1 someone doesn't want anymore, its airflow is far better than the Protank2 which is more restricted, and it can be done because I have done it, but only with a Protank1 using a 0.7ohm nano-coil head with a cotton wick on a SmokTech Natural and SmokTech Magneto, both mechanicals, using MNKE 18650s with a resetable fuse on the battery, but still I am not getting anywhere near the clouds Rip Trippers is doing.

    A properly built 30ga micro or nano coil in a protank, should by my experience produce triple the flavor of a stock head, twice the throat hit, and twice the vapor of a stock head in an Evod, T3, UniTank, or Protank2, Davide, or other such device using a Kanger style BCC head, Protank1 and possibly a Tatroe or Davide tank might reach the Protank1 with four times the flavor, twice the throat hit, and triple the vapor, but as I said above to achieve that you are needing a sub-ohm micro or nano coil on a Mechanical, going that route, cloud chasing, better start doing your research into RDAs, battery chemistry and safety, ohms law, and sub-ohm safety, you'll not get massive vapor out of a Glassomizer/Clearomizer class bottom tank system, they are not really designed to be fog machines.
    MacTechVpr, Chas F. and Zphinx like this.

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    I have 32gauge and ill try it out.
    Reading the youtube comments people seem to have no problem with it

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    You can drill out the air holes on the base of the PT2 to get more air. I did works great draw is just like the original PT.

    Try using 30g if you have it OP i used 32 and you can't get enough wraps for a proper micro-coil. It works just not as well YMMV of course.
    Last edited by Hill; 10-31-2013 at 06:51 AM.
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    Yes, 32ga will heat up a lot quicker, and I use it all the time in my Low to Standard restistance micro-coil rebuilds (1.5-2.5ohms), and best when used on a regulated device, as I said when I am down further, 0.7 to 1.5ohms, I use 30ga as it is more durable than 32ga at that range, and 28ga is better for sub-ohm building in an RDA/RBA/RTA.

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