a lot depends on where you vape at. I vape at max watt output that my devices are capable of. That is 15 watts. Some times more, if I take the kick out my mech mod to see if my current build is wicking well enough. Since the max on most devices is 15 watts, if you start out on say a 2.4 ohm coil, well the maximum I can vape is 6 volts on the Provari, giving me my desired 15 watts of output across the coil. Now with most coils, once it is used for a bit the ohms can drift up, and then I am vaping at on 12 or 13 watts. For that reason I like my builds to be .9 ohms to 1.4 ohms max. That way I can use them on my Provari or my kicked mech mod, with out a problem and be able to get some good life out of the build without losing my 15 watt threshold. Also if you are using a mech without a kick, or a non variable device, then you only have the voltage that is coming out of the battery producing the watts that the ohms of the coil puts out.
I find that the more watts you use the faster I go through batteries. Once I started using build that could wick enough juice at 15 watts, I could burn through 4 18490's in a day. I can also vaporize 12 to 15 ml of juice in a day too, more on my days off.
Like everything else in the world of vape, finding ones preferences, of ohms, watts, gauge of wire, nic level, VG/PT ratio, flavors, attys.... is a matter of trial and error, and always changing once you try different things and styles and builds and...
In my different rba's I have 4 different style of builds, once I think that I've found the best answer, I'll try something else that pops into my head. hmm, what if I combine a micro style build with a genesis style build with cotton, what would I get. Apparently a pretty dang good vape. But so is my Vertical mounted dual serial coil build with an external wick.
If the different resistance is obtained by using different wire of the same length then the wire temp would be the same for a given power.
Originally Posted by mobocracy
If the different resistance is obtained by using the same wire but different length then the longer wire would dissipate less power per inch so would be cooler. My baseboard heater and stove burner may use the same power but the burner is smaller so the power is dissipated in a smaller area so it's hotter.
In my limited experience, the wicks wear out, not the coils. Coils can be "dry burned" to get rid of the buildup.
Last edited by DKP#; 11-01-2013 at 04:14 PM.
I wrote this and then stepped away from the computer for a bit. The last few posts were very informative.
Using VW, in theory battery life should be the same no matter what resistance coil you use. Your battery is a fixed voltage, your resistance load is also fixed. The driver in the device manipulates the input voltage and current to produce the output ( output voltage and current) you calculate using ohm's law. Power is Power, there is nothing magical going on inside your APV. As your battery dies, the device attempts to regulate the same output voltage and current, which means the input voltage drops and the input current goes up every time you hit the fire button.
15W input = 15W output
4V X 3.75A (Battery side) = 3.87V X 3.87A (510 connection)
For 3 ohm
4V X 3.75A (Battery side) = 6.71V x 2.24A (510 connection)
*** This is all assuming an arbitrary input voltage under load, no power loss from the circuitry, that the driver is similarly efficient over it's entire range, etc.... which is not meant to be exact or even correct.
Real example, my vamo at 12W, half charged battery unknown voltage under load
2.6ohm clearo at 12 W, my vamo pulled 4.2A from the battery
1.25ohm DC carto at 12W, it showed 4.27A from the battery
A lot of great information you guys have given.. Thanks!!!!
Last edited by Elwing; 02-20-2014 at 04:32 PM.
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