Mechanical mod or VV/VW
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Thread: Mechanical mod or VV/VW

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    Default Mechanical mod or VV/VW

    Hi everyone. I have been vaping for about a month so far using an 1100 mAh eGo style battery with a Kanger T3S. I enjoy it very much, but I would like to upgrade in the future to either a mechanical or VV mod. I understand the difference between the two types. Which one would be the best to use with a RBA, or is that just a personal preference. Thank you for your input.

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    Personal preference.

    The principal reason to pick a mechanical (as far as vape goes, ignoring considerations like cost or aesthetics) is that it doesn't have a high-current (amp) shutoff.

    A high quality variable (such as some of the DNA mods) has a sufficiently high current limitation to more or less make this irrelevant.

    So in a sense, the best of all worlds is going to be a high quality variable.

    Most variables don't have this high amp limit though, so you'll be limited in how low resistance coils you can run. If you want to run low resistance coils (which I'd strongly advise you not to after only vaping for one month) a mech would be the next best option.

    Otherwise, a general VV/VW gives you lots of flexibility.

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    I use a VV/VW with all of my rba's (including a mech with a kick) because I have no need to vape above 12 watts - all my eliquids come through with the best flavor at 7.5 watts for me and I am not a cloud chaser so subohm has no attraction to me.

    The starter mod I would recommend would be the MVP2 - no extra batteries to buy - VV/VW - has an ohm reader for checking you coils on RBA's - can charge your cell phone in an emergency - slices - dices- makes julienne fries - and boy can it catch fish (sorry, 70's infomercial flashback)

    oh, and welcome to the ECF
    Last edited by retired1; 01-10-2014 at 12:47 AM.
    generic mutant and djsvapour like this.

    Why yes, yes I am a flavor floozie


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    Thanks for the info. Forgive my lack of knowledge, but what is a high-current shutoff for.

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    It's a safety shut-off, a.k.a. short circuit protection - think of it like a fuse.

    You start pulling too much power out of the battery (too many amps) and the thing stops firing.

    Mechanicals don't have that, so you have to know how low a resistance you can safely run. The lower you go, the higher the current drawn, and the closer you are to exceeding your battery's safe operating current.

    Or, of course, you can put a fuse in yourself. I use the Kamry, though the Vape Safe seems to have a good reputation too.
    Last edited by generic mutant; 01-09-2014 at 07:29 PM.


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    You can do both pretty cheaply. MVP 2 $40. K100 $20. Nitecore charger $15. 2 Batteries $15. Igo L $10. That's $100 for 2 proper devices that will vape great.
    Ladiekali likes this.

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    If I went back and did it all again, I wouldn't bother with a mechanical mod.

    However, given that things break and the e-cig world might indeed end soon if it all gets banned, I'm glad I have some. In fact, I'm buying another tonight.

    Work that out.
    DJS. MVP v.2 / SID / Nemesis + Sigelei 8w / Vamo V5 / Spinners / iTasteVV and even cig-a-likes.

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    Thanks Dakota. I think I might go with the SVD. I know batteries are only good for so many charges. Buying new batteries I think would be a lot cheaper than buying a whole new mod.

    Mutant, is the Kamry a mod or is that a fuze that you put in one?

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    It's for safety. I cannot recommend strongly enough that you get a VV unit! If you don't understand battery chemistry and all the ohms/wats/strain on your battery stuff you can get your self in some real trouble with only a mech and a rebuildable. The safest thing to do would be to either learn all of this before buying a mech or just get a VV mod with safety features.

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    Where would I get an MVP 2 for $40?

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