New, Updated, Comprehensive Intro to Vaping!

[Kate]

I've got my fingers crossed too Klimpt, we're just going to have to see how things turn out. You're doing the right thing by educating yourself and drawing your own conclusions.

Here's a new post that looks at the main health issues, you might want to follow this and see what develops from the thread - How valid are vaping health claims?

[ThePaintedHarlot]

Thank you so much for making this video. I bought a kit (now, I know how much I got overcharged!) at the mall and haven't touched an analog since. I just wish I had found this forum sooner. I made a lot of mistakes using this thing, it seems. Now I am all worried about how badly I might have poisoned myself with overfilling, and spilling nictoine.

AND I think I need to go down on nic strength because I went for the HIGH, trying to get a better throat hit but I only smoke half-pack of light analogs a day before this.

Could that be why I have had a headache for 5 days?

[Spikey]

Thank you so much for making this video. I bought a kit (now, I know how much I got overcharged!) at the mall and haven't touched an analog since. I just wish I had found this forum sooner. I made a lot of mistakes using this thing, it seems. Now I am all worried about how badly I might have poisoned myself with overfilling, and spilling nictoine.

AND I think I need to go down on nic strength because I went for the HIGH, trying to get a better throat hit but I only smoke half-pack of light analogs a day before this.

Could that be why I have had a headache for 5 days?

Headache and strong pounding heartbeats are the most common sign of overdose. Sounds like you need 8MG or 11MG.

I am glad the video has been so helpful to everyone. Sorry it couldn't be shorter.. but then things would be left out and I can only talk so fast!

[bmckenna]

Thanks for the vid. Very informative. Bucked the trend of starter e-cig being a 901 and got myself a 402 to start off with, and JC sampler. Will rewatch the vid once I get my PV for more pointers.

Spikey, saw you were out on LI...whereabouts? Got friends in Island Park, Massapequa, and Garden City. Any places you know in NYC that sell equipment to avoid having to pay shipping on replacement parts or more juice? Bought extra parts, but one never knows, and I'm sure I'll run out of juice. (I'm in north NJ, about half an hour away from the city).

[Spikey]

Thanks for the vid. Very informative. Bucked the trend of starter e-cig being a 901 and got myself a 402 to start off with, and JC sampler. Will rewatch the vid once I get my PV for more pointers.

Spikey, saw you were out on LI...whereabouts? Got friends in Island Park, Massapequa, and Garden City. Any places you know in NYC that sell equipment to avoid having to pay shipping on replacement parts or more juice? Bought extra parts, but one never knows, and I'm sure I'll run out of juice. (I'm in north NJ, about half an hour away from the city).

Hope you did your research and bought from somewhere with a good reputation!

I am in Nassau County. There are a couple guys at eliquidplanet.com who are from Long Island.. but as of now we don't know of anyone in NYC selling parts. I started the Long Island Vapers Club (www.VapersClub.com) so that we could all trade parts and never be without a working e-cig. Some members from Queens and some from Long Island. If you would like to drive to Long Island to attend meetings you are welcome to join.. PM me and I will send you info.

[bmckenna]

Hope you did your research and bought from somewhere with a good reputation!

I am in Nassau County. There are a couple guys at eliquidplanet.com who are from Long Island.. but as of now we don't know of anyone in NYC selling parts. I started the Long Island Vapers Club (link removed because i don't have 15 posts - bmckenna) so that we could all trade parts and never be without a working e-cig. Some members from Queens and some from Long Island. If you would like to drive to Long Island to attend meetings you are welcome to join.. PM me and I will send you info.

PM sent. I'm hoping it's a good buying experience...recommended in another thread with glowing reviews.

[ISAWHIM]

I would personally like to add a comment about the "Storage Liquid", which you called a primer liquid, on the first-use. (New item.)

That is used machine-oil, and should not be "Puffed". It is high in heavy-metal concentrations. This oil is a sprayed-on or dipped oil, used to limit any corrosion of the heating element in storage. You will find it on most Chinese manufactured metal items.

They dispose of old machine-oil, by filtering it and using it as a general protection oil, to limit rusting or oxidation. (It is cheaper than paying for waste disposal, and cheaper than paying for special made oils for anti-oxidation.)

Personally, I would suggest a single drop of alcohol onto the element wool. Followed by a hot water drip/rinse from the battery-side of the vaporizer assembly. Again, followed by another single drop of alcohol, and another flush with water.

Water will not work, as it is an oil on the device. You need a solvent, and the only safe electronic solvent, which most people have, is alcohol.

I would also like to add... The use of "Club-soda", as opposed to "Coke" or "Pepsi", as the other two drinks contain sugar, which can short-circuit the electrical connections and accelerate the further corrosion, and lead to further wick-gunking. Club soda is pure seltzer water, without sugars. (Carbonic acid) Followed by the water flush, as you mentioned the second time.

Personally, again I would be tempted to use a solvent like alcohol, as opposed to an acid. Since acid will remove the outer layer of metals and any protective electroplating. Baking-soda solution might be a better alternative, but I have not tried that yet. Baking-soda is a buffer, which turns acids into neutral PH-7 and bases into neutral PH-7. (Commonly used where electrical connections and battery acids or other acids exist. It is chemically stable, unlike carbonic acid.)

I wanted to provide some info, for those who may have a concern with poly-fill as the wick, as poly-fill is made from Polyester (Polyethylene terephthalate) or PET.

wikipedia: Polyethylene_terephthalate

PET has a melting point of around 260C or 500F, which is why it may begin to turn brown near the heating element. This is the time when it should be replaced.

PET consists of polymerized units of the monomer ethylene terephthalate, with repeating C10H8O4 units. It contains the chemical elements carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. If fully burned, it produces only carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O).

plasticsinfo org:/s_plasticsinfo/sec_generic.asp?CID=657&DID=2605

PET itself is biologically inert if ingested, is dermally safe during handling and is not a hazard if inhaled. No evidence of toxicity has been detected in feeding studies using animals. Negative results from Ames tests and studies into unscheduled DNA synthesis indicate that PET is not genotoxic. Similar studies conducted with monomers and typical PET intermediates also indicate that these materials are essentially nontoxic and pose no threats to human health. . . . It is important to stress that the chemistry of compounds that are used to manufacture PET shows no evidence of oestrogenic activity. There is a significant body of evidence that demonstrates that the use of PET is not a concern and is perfectly safe in this respect.

(For those with a fear of the use of plastic-fibers as a wick, as opposed to fiber-glass.)

[Kate]

Why do you think the primer is machine oil?

I've not heard of wicks made from PET, maybe you mean cartridge fillers?

[Kitabz]

That is used machine-oil, and should not be "Puffed". It is high in heavy-metal concentrations. This oil is a sprayed-on or dipped oil, used to limit any corrosion of the heating element in storage. You will find it on most Chinese manufactured metal items.

Can I ask what your source is for this? I'm not doubting you but I'd like to know where you have found this information.

They dispose of old machine-oil, by filtering it and using it as a general protection oil, to limit rusting or oxidation. (It is cheaper than paying for waste disposal, and cheaper than paying for special made oils for anti-oxidation.)

I was under the impression that stainless steel suffers from neither rusting or oxidation anyway so why would any oil be necessary? (I've heard similar arguments about fluoride in water in order to avoid waste disposal of fluoride and I'm not convinced about that alleged reason for use either.)

Baking-soda solution might be a better alternative, but I have not tried that yet. Baking-soda is a buffer, which turns acids into neutral PH-7 and bases into neutral PH-7.

I have used a baking soda solution to wash atomisers with success (although pretty much anything to clean them seems to work equally well IMHO).

[arnoman]

The atomizer itself fits inside a tube and to draw vapor you must get the air around the tightly fitted device and through a tiny hole in the middle. There is very little clearance and after a couple weeks of hard vaping this flow is impeded. I have tried everything to clear it out again and can't do it. As you can see by my avatar I have taken one apart. If anyone knows how to do this it would be much appreciated. ..a