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Thread: The Darwin From Evolv!!!

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    anyone else noticing the voltage never dips below 2.5V? It seems that anything under 8.4 watts is still showing as 2.5V on the display.

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    Ok I had a quick question about the charger.....

    Is the charger that comes with the darwin a wall charger only? Or is it a USB cable with a wall adapter? I see some of you posting your wall adapters so im kinda confused about what charger comes with the darwin.

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    The one I got has integrated cable and is 500mA. But any mini USB cable will work and i typically charge off a 2A adapter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorad View Post
    anyone else noticing the voltage never dips below 2.5V? It seems that anything under 8.4 watts is still showing as 2.5V on the display.
    What atty/carto Ωs are you using. Try some higher Ω if you are using LR. If you are still registering 2.5V, contact Evolv using the "Contact us" link on evolvapor.com and they will help you.

    Quote Originally Posted by MiXoLoGiSt View Post
    Ok I had a quick question about the charger.....

    Is the charger that comes with the darwin a wall charger only? Or is it a USB cable with a wall adapter? I see some of you posting your wall adapters so im kinda confused about what charger comes with the darwin.
    These are charge cords - the charger itself is built into the Darwin with smart-charge circuitry so you do not have to be concerned about over-charging (I charge while I sleep). I can only tell you the original cords are hard wired to the AC plug with a green light that dims slightly when you plug in the Darwin. I have seen some posts of those with newer ones that may have a red light on them and I do not know if those are hard-wired to the AC plug or USB to mini USB with the USB plugging into the AC plug adapter. However, you can use any mini USB charger. I have several. I use USB to mini USB cables and AC plugs with USB ports on them. I also have a 2 port USB car cig-lighter for my car. The original charge cord AC plug adapters have 5V 800mAh output. You can use 500 mah output on up to 2A. I think the Darwin circuitry will only take what it needs and can charge faster with the higher outputs. Mine are 1 and 2A outputs. So, pretty much, if it has a mini-USB plug you should be fine.

    Darwin, Darwin, OPUS, JBOX, Darwin, Darwin, Two or Three Kicked Tubes + just 1 or 2 or ? more :)~
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    That depends the ohm rating of your atty or carto. I'm currently using s 2ohm carto, the lowest I can go before nothing changes is 5.7 watts at 1.7amps 3.4 volts.

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    using the ato-miser... it's showing 1.5 ohms i;ll give them a shout

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorad View Post
    using the ato-miser... it's showing 1.5 ohms i;ll give them a shout
    At 1.5 Ohms resistance this is quite normal behavior for the Darwin. See, that atty calls for a certain amount of amperage by nature. To get it to go lower with such an atty, you'd either have to put a resister in line somewhere to steal some watts, or use a different type of batteries (no practical advantage to this really). Since you have an ato-miser, you can try using a bigger wire, and/or adding more coils/wraps (coil-length) to give more resistance if you like.

    The Darwin can get as low as 3.2v if you move up to SR and HV stuff however.
    Last edited by Credo; 10-06-2011 at 06:48 AM.
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    I see... I'll have to buy some longer coil wire.. the stuff I have is strange compared to videos I've seen as it only allows up to 2 possibly 3 coils before there is a thicker non resistant wire?....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorad View Post
    I see... I'll have to buy some longer coil wire.. the stuff I have is strange compared to videos I've seen as it only allows up to 2 possibly 3 coils before there is a thicker non resistant wire?....
    Interesting. I've not tried one of those kits, but my understanding is that they initially came with various nichrome sizes to try out. I.E. A dozen or so 1.5 Ohm strands. A dozen or so 2 Ohm strands. A Dozen or so 3 Ohm strands. Etc. Do you have a multi-meter where you can measure a piece before putting it in the atty chassis?

    In any event, I bet if you contact nHaler and tell them the approximate resistance you want they can advise you and maybe even sell you the right wire for your target. There might even be a thread or two here on ECF for it. Here's one that might be worth your attention: Introducing the Ato-Miser rebuildable Atomizer for that little Miser in all of us!!!!!
    Eye sea, eye here, and like two tail, butt all should no eye can knot spell. A friend of mine new what to dew, two cheque my spelling threw and threw. Eye brought sum soft-were in a sail, and now eye spell very whale.

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    Jorad - please clarify your issue. In your first post on this issue you said 2.5V (which Darwin should not do). My advice to you was to use HIGHER Ωs atty or carto to see what happens. you responded you are using only 1.5Ω which is low. We have many posts and discussions in this thread about using LR on Darwin. If you are reading 2.5 AMPS with 1.5Ω - this is very normal. So please clarify - 2.5 volts or AMPS. LR gear really limits the the vapable watts range of Darwin. This has nothing to do with Darwin and is all from OHMS LAW. Using standard and higher Ωs atty/catros you can still get the higher watts by just turning up the wheel AND you can vape the lower range too. LR gear limits you to the higher end of the watts range even when the Darwin dial is turned lower. LR gear also demands more amps and will drain your batt faster.

    Before contacting Evolv, please clarify to us if you are seeing 2.5 Volts or 2.5 AMPs with that LR 1.5Ω. As I said, if 2.5 AMPS this is perfectly normal.

    Darwin, Darwin, OPUS, JBOX, Darwin, Darwin, Two or Three Kicked Tubes + just 1 or 2 or ? more :)~
    "The only stupid consumer is the one who denies himself enjoyment because of the opinions of others."

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