BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Quigsworth

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Since I'm in the same un-regulated boat as you Quigs I fully understand how you feel. But you said it in your last sentence, it's all about making stuff and getting the satisfaction that you made that thing you're vaping. At least for me personally it's not primarily about improving my vape, it's more about making something just the way I like it.
Of course you can get just so much of what you like until you get bored and feel the need to try something else too.

Every time I made a dna mod I probably swore I'll never do one again, but I will. In fact I'll probably try other boards as well at some point.

Fair enough, I get what you're saying but I'm not so sure I will...I think there's plenty of crazy things one can do to mix it up and not get bored, my copper/brass skeleton mod was a stretch even for me but it was a blast making it...not for everyone, but at least it's an example a full scratch built mod where I made everything, if it turned out awesome, I made that, if it turned out to be a piece of crap, I own it...but it won't be crap because of some random reg. fail that I have no control over and designed an entire mod around :mad:

Ya, think I'll build my last DNA's into something, they're popular so maybe it could be an opportunity to fund my next tool toy then I'm done...I'll stick to my luddite mods and live my life of mediocrity, suffering in silence :)laugh:) an inconsistent vape :p
 

custom-classic

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I missed you guys. :)

Just checking to see if I can still post pics.....


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:D
 

asdaq

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CC, you said yourself with the aluminum that the next one will be thinner, but with brass you are really going to want to do that. I would even consider doing some decorative mill work in the central portion to remove as much material as possible. That said, I'm proud and envious at the same time.
 

custom-classic

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I know, I know......... :)

I defaulted to my known dimensions.... I've still got the other half of that block. It'll be up next. I'll mill that that sucker down to the bare minimum. Move the battery and bottle closer together and make the walls thinner as well...
 

asdaq

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With this one you can have fun then. You don't need the flat sides, except where the magnets are. I'd mill it concave to resemble two tubes and then drill perforations through the center, maybe a groove, or just evenly spaced holes. It would even look cool if they broke through the battery/ bottle holes exposing the innards some.
 

Genosmate

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My first wood mod is no more!
I got clever and re machined it and made a nicer door,then tried to get even more clever and it ended in the bin!
I stripped the insides out and decided on a different shape and door etc.I don't think I can get an 18650 bf wood mod much smaller,for comparison its smaller than a Woodvill in all dimensions.
Could of grain matched the door but decided not to.Used a Fat Daddys low profile V4 with a standard bf pin this time.
Need to fit door magnets,decide on the shape of the squonk hole and the finish.
Playing with an idea for a nice wood and copper tube mod,but stuck on how to power the thing,don't really want to use wires.
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studiovap

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While on the subject of the FDV V4 510 connectors, what are you folks views on the safe soldering and brass pickling associated with connections in this area? Does anyone know if the brass fatdaddy uses is lead free?,do we know if pickling the brass in the peroxide/white vinegar solution affects the surface electrical conductivity of the treated brass?, and last of all what solder are you happy using on the positive connection to the feed tube?, considering this is the one area likely to have the possibility of solder metals leaching into the juice.
 

Aal_

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While on the subject of the FDV V4 510 connectors, what are you folks views on the safe soldering and brass pickling associated with connections in this area? Does anyone know if the brass fatdaddy uses is lead free?,do we know if pickling the brass in the peroxide/white vinegar solution affects the surface electrical conductivity of the treated brass?, and last of all what solder are you happy using on the positive connection to the feed tube?, considering this is the one area likely to have the possibility of solder metals leaching into the juice.
Interesting to know the effect of pickling on both conductivity and soldering. since all what pickling does is remove surface lead, I would say conductivity through the brass shouldn't be affected. But at the contact point? Interesting to know.
 
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Quigsworth

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I would say Aal is right on the conductivity, should have no effect.

As for the FD 510's, if FD is using anything but naval brass (C464) he should be ashamed of himself. C464, if obtained through a reliable source that will provide a spec sheet, contains zero lead so pickling is not required. It's not hard to get, Online metals carries it but only in certain form factors (thankfully one of them is rod, for my center pins).

As for the pin...for the V3's (which I like) I have been drilling out the stock pins and pressing an SS blunt into it, no solder and have yet to have one leak (or at least noticeably leak)...seeing as SS is near impossible to solder your pos to without enough heat that would destroy the internals, so I wrap my wire around the blunt, shove it up till it hits the bottom lip of FD brass center pin and solder that with lead free...seems to work and no lead in the juice stream...though now with the lathe, I was going to make my own copy of the FD center with a good tube length incorporated out of C464...sort of like FD's bf extended pins but not so "joke" like...3mm? come on FD, really?
 
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asdaq

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Lead is added to the alloy of copper and zinc to improve the machinabilty of brass. Essentially there are minute globules of lead that do not fully emulsify into the alloy, and they lubricate the machining processes. The vinegar peroxide bath removes these globules from the surface, only, leaving just zinc and copper. As this bath 'cleans' the brass at the same time of other deposits, it should conduct and solder even easier. If the parts are expected to move or take friction like screw posts and nuts, more lead will be be exposed as the surface wears.
 

Genosmate

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How did you get on with the V4 connectors, do you like them?
They seem OK,but I haven't actually vaped with it so can't say how they are in terms of leaking or not.They are much better than the FD BF V3 solution in my opinion.
I also haven't used them with any wires so what they are like soldering I don't know.
When I get a bit more confident with my equipment I rather make my own 510's though.
 
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