Is there a better atomizer design? in Modding Forum; You go KMK, I like your idea. I was thinking in my car how I could put a vial of ...
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Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
You go KMK, I like your idea. I was thinking in my car how I could put a vial of liquid on my belt and have a bulb with a tube to squeeze the juice into my cartridge without taking it apart. Ideas have to start somewhere.
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kmk,
If you can, factor in a replaceable wick. Even if it does get a bit burnt up, if it can be replaced cheaply, so it's not a big deal.
Does the efficiency of the heating element necessarily make it easier to burn out, like a light bulb filament? It seems that the elements tend toward the light bulb side of the spectrum (burning through in open air), when we need them more on the toaster side. But...increase the size, you decrease the resistance of the element and now you need more power.
My next question would be what sorts of temperatures are needed, but that can be worked out pretty easily with some juice, a glass pipe and an infrared gun.
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I thought I had posted, but it seems to have dropped it. Here we go again.
1) Try to figure in a replaceable wick.
2) Does efficiency require an element that is susceptible to burning in open air? If so, wouldn't it have to be beefed up a bit, therefore lowering resistance and requiring more power?
3) When I actually order/receive my first ecig I'll go to the head shop and buy a glass..uhh... 'tobacco' pipe, throw in some ejuice, and freebase with an infrared gun to check required temperatures, if anyone thinks it would be useful for these endeavors.
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Josiah,
1) The replaceable wick is already in my idea, as otherwise it would make the vial hard to remove. Also, in theory, if the wick is properly saturated, it shouldn't burn either.
2) I don't quite follow what you're asking, but a light bulb is basically burning the filament in a low-to-no oxygen, so there is no oxidation. A e-cig heating coil is nichrome, I think. The chrome would prevent the oxidation, so it's a different story. Also, thicker wire is more stable and resistant, but requires more power. I have to do some math and figure the optimal temp vs. power consumption (thickness).
3) I remember reading that the temperature is about 220F, but have fun with your experiments.
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My understanding was that when people have removed the absorbent fibers from around the element it has a tendency to burn through, therefore my concern about the ecig element, nichrome or not.
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Ok, the wire coil turns electricity into heat, and the heat is then transferred to the liquid in the fibers, thus making vapor. If there's no liquid, the fiber burns. If there's no fiber, then there would be no liquid and no heat transfer, thus burning the wire coil. When all three are present in proper amounts, the system works. Take away one, or dangerously lower the content of one, and the system breaks fast.
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What are peoples experiences of batteries? Do they only last a couple of weeks? If the battery and atomiser only last a couple of weeks, then your basically buying a new ecig every two weeks, that cant be right, can it?
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Originally Posted by
Jack-Flash
What are peoples experiences of batteries? Do they only last a couple of weeks? If the battery and atomiser only last a couple of weeks, then your basically buying a new ecig every two weeks, that cant be right, can it?
Mine hasn't arrived as yet,but i think that about sums it up,2 new batteries and 1 atomiser evry 2 week,plus approx 14ml juice per week (for a 20 a day smoker).
So that comes in at about £20-£25 per week instead of £40
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Batteries, if properly charged and maintained, can last well over 300 charge/discharge cycles. Figure you use two batteries a day, that's ~150 days.
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Senior Member
ECF Veteran
How about an atomizer with a bit of extra thread in it. That way you just use a little hex wrench or something and wind it whenever it starts tasting burnt. Here's a quick diagram modifying the cross section from earlier in this thread.
Last edited by jarvis; 11-03-2008 at 06:41 PM.
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