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    Default Button getting hot?

    The button on my drawtube keeps getting hot when I fire it. I've got an RSST on it right now with 400 mesh and 28 gauge kanthal. It's reading 0.8Ω and it's vaping ok. I've never noticed the button getting hot before. I'm sure it's user error. Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

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    I'm interested in this also. I think it's a short. I've got a did clone that keeps throwing and E1 on the provari and when I put it on the EA and pushed the button, the button immediately got scalding hot. I took the batt out and set it aside for awhile.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donnah View Post
    I'm interested in this also. I think it's a short. I've got a did clone that keeps throwing and E1 on the provari and when I put it on the EA and pushed the button, the button immediately got scalding hot. I took the batt out and set it aside for awhile.
    If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.
    There are those who make things happen. There are those who watch things happen. There are those who will ask: "What the heck just happened?"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rule62 View Post
    If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.
    And shorts will cause overheating and ultimately battery self destruction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rule62 View Post
    If the Provari is showing E1, it's a short.
    An e1 is nothing new, I can usually keep adjusting and work through it. I didn't think that with a mech, the button would immediately get hot. Ard there different types of shorts? Is there a difference between a "hard" short and a "regular" short?

    For example, the pulse method of oxidizing...don't you pulse out the shorts?
    Last edited by donnah; 04-19-2013 at 12:27 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donnah View Post
    An e1 is nothing new, I can usually keep adjusting and work through it. I didn't think that with a mech, the button would immediately get hot. Ard there different types of shorts? Is there a difference between a "hard" short and a "regular" short?

    For example, the pulse method of oxidizing...don't you pulse out the shorts?
    There is a difference; but I'm not versed enough in electrical terms to describe it properly, I'm sure. But, with a provari, anything below the minimum resistance threshold designed into the device will register as an E1 (short) error. However, there may, in actuality, be some resistance between the positive and negative. That resistance is is just below the threshold. With a "hard short", there is zero resistance between the two poles. The danger is that a hard short can not only damage the device, but can cause battery failure.
    There are those who make things happen. There are those who watch things happen. There are those who will ask: "What the heck just happened?"

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    I think I've figured out my problem.. see where the pos pin has been pulled up into the insulator? this is the second time this has happened on this clone from fasttech. The vulcan, (did clone) pretty much did the same thing, it shredded the insulator. I think I'm going to quit messing with these did clones.


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    Quote Originally Posted by donnah View Post
    I think I've figured out my problem.. see where the pos pin has been pulled up into the insulator? this is the second time this has happened on this clone from fasttech. The vulcan, (did clone) pretty much did the same thing, it shredded the insulator. I think I'm going to quit messing with these did clones.

    Yep. There's your short. Those insulators on the clones are pretty cheezy, considering they're the only thing protecting the PV and battery from failure, especially with a mechanical mod. I've never had one fail; but I have a local friend who has had the insulator fail a couple times.
    There are those who make things happen. There are those who watch things happen. There are those who will ask: "What the heck just happened?"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rule62 View Post
    Yep. There's your short. Those insulators on the clones are pretty cheezy, considering they're the only thing protecting the PV and battery from failure, especially with a mechanical mod. I've never had one fail; but I have a local friend who has had the insulator fail a couple times.
    I just took it apart and the insulator had torn in two up in the shaft. This is the second time this has happened and I've lost all interest in messing with these did clones. On a good note, I ordered a bunch of the insulators from surevapes and they do work great in the drunker

    OP.. sorry to highjack your thread but I hope my experience has maybe helped you with your hot button issue. I use my rsst on my mech and the button never gets hot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donnah View Post
    I just took it apart and the insulator had torn in two up in the shaft. This is the second time this has happened and I've lost all interest in messing with these did clones. On a good note, I ordered a bunch of the insulators from surevapes and they do work great in the drunker

    OP.. sorry to highjack your thread but I hope my experience has maybe helped you with your hot button issue. I use my rsst on my mech and the button never gets hot.
    It's also a good lesson in why we shouldn't mess with "no name" batteries.
    There are those who make things happen. There are those who watch things happen. There are those who will ask: "What the heck just happened?"

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