Kanger Pro Tank Rebuilding Help
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Thread: Kanger Pro Tank Rebuilding Help

  1. #1
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    Default Kanger Pro Tank Rebuilding Help

    I’m looking for a little help or tips for rebuilding the Protank.

    I bought some 2mm and 3mm silica wick.
    32ga, 28ga, and .6mm x .1mm kanthal ribbon (resistance around 7.8ohm/ft ~ same as 30 ga)

    The problem I am running into is the past two coils I built all came out with a burnt rubber taste if I take a decent drag allowing the coil to heat up… I suspect the taste is coming from the rubber insulator grommet which separates the positive and negative leads in the head.

    Both heads were built with 3mm wick folder over on top of itself (removing the need for flavor wicks). I don’t think I have any wicking issues, and I don’t get any tank flooding.

    Coil 1 = 32ga Kanthal – Fluke DMM puts it at 1.7 ohms
    Coil 2 = .6mm ribbon – Fluke DMM puts it at 1.2 ohms

    I really the Protank, but I’m sure my coils and wick setup isn’t optimal. Any tips to fix that off putting rubber taste?

  2. #2
    Super Member ECF Veteran Innocuous's Avatar
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    Double the leads, (halving resistance), to the grommets. Or, you can use NR wire for the leads/legs.
    BurntHit and ZicZacCadillac like this.

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    NR wire as in non-resistive wire?

    Not a bad idea doubling the leads... I suspect that coil was glowing towards the lead area as I saw burn marks when I took it apart. Thanks for the recommendation.

    Time to make another coil.

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    yup it's the grommet. god that taste is awful.

    one other thing you can do is to "circumcise" the grommet (lol) and cut it back. that keeps the top of it further away from the coil and prevents it from heating up even if you don't have "hot legs" ... depending on how much power you are pushing I have found that it could burn the grommet even with doubled legs.

    but the doubled legs thing is currently my solution. what I do is prepare the twisted ends of a piece of kanthal before wrapping. leave a length of wire in the middle for the coil. with 30 gauge I get about 1 ohm from just under 1". fires at 20 watts on the DNA 20 and keeps up, 3mm main wick and no or just a tiny sliver of flavor wick.

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    The problem sure was the hot legs…

    I made a new coil… I guess you can consider it a microcoil since I was able to cram .6mm ribbon kanthal into the prohead at 1.6 ohms.

    I didn’t double up on the leads this time around, but I did take the time to position the legs better.

    Nice smooth vape, no burnt taste. The base of the coil dies seem to warm up pretty quick but it functions well.

    Dr g, DNA 20 will be my next PCB, did you buy it in a MOD or make one? PM me some details!

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    I hear with microcoils (or equivalent) it really helps to avoid the hot legs. How much power are you pumping through?

    I built my own, wrote it up here: My take on the Fistpack - DNA 20d powered WIP
    Right now running a Panasonic NCR18650PD which is really great, and I ended up replacing the connector with an Ego connector, which I like a lot better. Can run Evods directly

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    I have been having the same problem. Made probably 4 different builds and the grommet has scorch marks on it.

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    Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from the Modding Forum - Atomizer Mods

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