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Thread: Fogger v2 performance upgrades

  1. #21
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    This is my setup for the vertical coil, 10 wraps 28g on a 1.5mm drill bit gave me 1.4/1.5ohms. The bottom hole is 1.5mm so if you make a coil smaller you are restricting your airflow. One trick I discovered, I don't leave cotton or hemp protruding, instead after tightening the chimney I take a sharp needle and stick it thru each hole several times. This seems to make small channels for the juice to absorb more evenly into the filler. You want it to work like a punched carto in a tank. You know you have it right when you see small bubbles of air form in the holes on each side after every few draws. You should not have to loosen the chimney or remove the Oring, if you get dry hits it is packed too tight, if it floods it is packed too loose. Packing is the variable that has a learning curve.
    Since I only use VV/VW I try to keep my coils 1.3 to 1.5 ohms.

    Have not found the need to increase any air intake, 1.5mm is plenty IMO. Just make sure no blocking in the complete path.

    Here is my set up ready for dry burn and new hemp fiber. The top coil leg to pos. Bottom coil leg bent up to the post, this one can touch the sides as that is a common neg.



    Dry burn



    Filled with new hemp fiber and low voltage test


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  3. #22
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    Not a very happy vapor with the fogger. I have been messing around for the past 2 hours trying to do the upgrade. First off, taking the thing apart was a PIA.... I ended up messing up the threads on the chimney. They have used lock tite on every piece so when I have finally got it all apart all the pieces have been scratch/scuff and twisted out of heck.

    IMO and for me this is way too much work and a PIA to have a vape. Wasted money on this one. I bought 2 and will be returning the unopened one.
    Burnie likes this.
    Richard


  4. #23
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    I had to twist so hard to get the bottom piece off that the adjustable vent has locked in the close position.

    Yup... Not a fan if this one.
    Richard


  5. #24
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    My fogger v2 arrived yesterday, no air draw problems at all apart from the adjuster ring being loose, I wonder if they made modifications to later batches, bought mine from a uk seller that seems to be selling out batches as they arrive so it might be different? I may try some ptfe tape in the air flow threads. I get 2 full turns of adjustment on the ring and you can see about 75% of the 3 holes when its fully open.
    Its vaping very nicely with braided silica with a conventionally spaced horizontal coil. no leaks and wicking nicely, 2.4ohm 4.4v, the resistance was higher than I was aiming for.
    Its essential to put all the compnonents in boiling water before building, there are residues from manufacturing that taste horrible.
    Once get the hand of micro coils I'll try that next

    edit: for a quick fix on the air flow control thread I put a few drops of caramel eliquid in there and its not as loose now so I'm no rush to take it apart now.
    Last edited by scote; 10-23-2013 at 06:38 AM. Reason: update

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    I enjoy reading all the pros and cons. Personally for the price of $15 in co-ops I consider this on of the best RBAs for the money out there. I would never recommend it for a beginner, but for an experienced user of RBAs, it is an excellent unit to get into vertical nano coils. With horizontal coils it is nothing new. Yes it has some minor flaws in assembly that may need adjusting. Using two pliers with some rubber or cloth padding it is not difficult to take apart. I have two, and will order four more as once I get a vertical coil in there it should last for over a year just changing the hemp filler. With a vertical coil this works better than any other RBA I have (many), only the Russian is at par or maybe a little better just for the ease of building a vertical on the Russian. If you want to use a horizontal coil there are many ,many models of RBAs out there easier to set up for a beginner.
    Last edited by BJ43; 10-23-2013 at 12:43 PM.
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  7. #26
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    I think I burnt the core of mine .. I wasn't actually playing around with it, just put a new coil and then tried to work it out .. All of a sudden, it stopped firing up .. Took out the battery and there was a big bump on the battery .. Immediately tested and threw it away cuz the batter seemed to be dead. Although the battery was only a few days old but threw it away anyway. Tried with a new battery, but the Fogger isn't showing any signs of life .. Do you guys think I've cooked the core of my Fogger?


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  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrkaushal View Post
    I think I burnt the core of mine .. I wasn't actually playing around with it, just put a new coil and then tried to work it out .. All of a sudden, it stopped firing up .. Took out the battery and there was a big bump on the battery .. Immediately tested and threw it away cuz the batter seemed to be dead. Although the battery was only a few days old but threw it away anyway. Tried with a new battery, but the Fogger isn't showing any signs of life .. Do you guys think I've cooked the core of my Fogger?
    Do you have a multimeter? Check it for continuity. If you don't have a meter take it apart a check all the positive insulation points.

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrkaushal View Post
    I think I burnt the core of mine .. I wasn't actually playing around with it, just put a new coil and then tried to work it out .. All of a sudden, it stopped firing up .. Took out the battery and there was a big bump on the battery .. Immediately tested and threw it away cuz the batter seemed to be dead. Although the battery was only a few days old but threw it away anyway. Tried with a new battery, but the Fogger isn't showing any signs of life .. Do you guys think I've cooked the core of my Fogger?

    I can almost guarantee, your positive post screw was too low when you fastened it to the mod, and it shorted out in the AFC chamber. That can kill the battery and cause the bump you mentioned. You really need to be careful on the bottom post adjustment on this one it WILL short if you leave it too long when you screw it down onto a mod.
    adrkaushal and Zu Va like this.

    Starting over October 2012
    How to make a Carto friendly Drip Tip

  10. #29
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    When my fogger is set up correctly it works just like a carto in a tank, only better. Here is a pic that shows the bubble of air that forms after every few draws equalizing the vacuum in the tank.

    Clic on pic for video. Excuse the dental floss, just my way to tighten the threads on the sloppy air ring.


  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJ43 View Post
    This is my setup for the vertical coil, 10 wraps 28g on a 1.5mm drill bit gave me 1.4/1.5ohms. The bottom hole is 1.5mm so if you make a coil smaller you are restricting your airflow. One trick I discovered, I don't leave cotton or hemp protruding, instead after tightening the chimney I take a sharp needle and stick it thru each hole several times. This seems to make small channels for the juice to absorb more evenly into the filler. You want it to work like a punched carto in a tank. You know you have it right when you see small bubbles of air form in the holes on each side after every few draws. You should not have to loosen the chimney or remove the Oring, if you get dry hits it is packed too tight, if it floods it is packed too loose. Packing is the variable that has a learning curve.
    Since I only use VV/VW I try to keep my coils 1.3 to 1.5 ohms.

    Have not found the need to increase any air intake, 1.5mm is plenty IMO. Just make sure no blocking in the complete path.

    Here is my set up ready for dry burn and new hemp fiber. The top coil leg to pos. Bottom coil leg bent up to the post, this one can touch the sides as that is a common neg.



    Dry burn



    Filled with new hemp fiber and low voltage test

    Any video tutorials on this? Since the cotton/hemp is on the outside of the coil (like a filler material) does that mean that you leave the center of the coil void?

    69 Mod - Cobra Atty - 28 GA Kanthal - 5/4 Wrap - 325 Mesh

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