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  1. #41
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    bookmarked... got one of these and still ain't had time to set it up yet. I'm thinking i wont have a chance without this thread i was kindly directed to by a buddy.

    gotta give it a read once i get home and have some time.

    thanks for all the hard work to everyone that contributed.

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    One thing, that happens with the R91% too, when I put a fresh battery in it's dry hits time!!

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    Latest news, Fogger V2 (or maybe V3) will now be available with a ss tank. you can either use the glass tank or the ss tank on your new fogger


    Source: https://www.facebook.com/situ.suki

    The only thing I'm missing in the new ss tank is a "view of the eLiquid level". There is no way to know how much eLiquid is left in the tank. I did give a suggestion to the manufacturer to do something about that. There has to be some way of knowing how much juice is left in the tank ..
    Last edited by adrkaushal; 10-30-2013 at 06:02 AM.


    *Note to merchants: Please keep Ceramic Ropes in your store*

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJ43 View Post
    I wrap all my vertical coils on a 1.5mm drill bit. I can't measure how close it is at the bottom but it is pretty close. This stays so wet I don't think it will be a problem. I have put 40 ml thru it with one cleaning and dry burn at 30ml.

    Next time I clean it and dry burn I will take a pic from the top without the filler. I am now using hemp fiber for filler.

    Thanks for the inspiration, BJ. Here's my take on the conversion of the Fogger into a carto-tank

    That's an Aluminum oxide ceramic core with a 2.5mm hole thru it. Coil goes vertically inside the hole (good contact with the walls is essential). I used carto poly material to fill the gaps (oh, the irony ).

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383083524.682992.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383083512.282711.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-imageuploadedbytapatalk1383083500.983235.jpg

    This is still temperamental, and making the ceramic core is a messy and painstaking task. I'm not sure I've found the most viable setup for this tank yet...
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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrMA View Post
    Thanks for the inspiration, BJ. Here's my take on the conversion of the Fogger into a carto-tank

    That's an Aluminum oxide ceramic core with a 2.5mm hole thru it. Coil goes vertically inside the hole (good contact with the walls is essential). I used carto poly material to fill the gaps (oh, the irony ).

    This is still temperamental, and making the ceramic core is a messy and painstaking task. I'm not sure I've found the most viable setup for this tank yet...
    I had been looking at my 6 Ao stone thinking I would do something similar, but the hemp fiber is so good I decided it wasn't worth all that dremeling. Great job though...

  6. #46
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    Below are a couple of my posts from the Fogger V2....WOW thread


    Below is how I get it apart. My second one was really stuck together and both had some kind of thread locking goo.

    - first start by running hot water over the base for a few minutes, probably better is boiling the base for a few minutes.
    - while it's still warm but cool enough to handle find something to grab around the base and something that fits good in the slots. I use some pliers that I put heat shrink over the jaws and a pair of tweezers in the slot.
    - if the chimney cap doesn't thread on or is a little tight, this can happen if you are using something in the slots and have to torque really hard to separate the pieces. (Second pic) I use the heat shrunk pliers and work around the chimney cap threads, slightly squeezing until the chimney cap threads on good.











    Air flow and easy short preventing trick

    The ID of the center tube is the most restrictive in the air flow path, followed by the four holes in the center tube, then the three holes in the base with the adjuster ring.

    Couple things to check if air seems restricted.

    - that the notch in the bottom silicone piece is lined up with the three holes in the base. Instead of worrying about trying to keep it lined up, I trimmed it to the diameter of the disk on the center tube.

    - make sure the insulator on the center tube isn't covering the four holes in the center tube.


    Here is what the parts look like originally






    Here are the mods I did to eliminate possible shorting and open air flow up to what the adjustment ring allows.

    - trimmed bottom silicone piece to diameter of center tube disk.
    - glued a piece of plastic opposite of the insulated coil post that is approximately the same height of the insulated coil post.
    - cut off the top of the center tube....warning this piece is brass with coating.









    The 510 threads on the fogger are a little long and can cause it not to set down flush on some mods and possibly cause shorting issues. I used a dremel with cutoff wheel and shortened the 510 a little.



    And here is what a Fogger should look like

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  7. #47
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    You missed mentioning the new tank glass & top cap, looks fantastic!
    I've done your other adjustments already, with exception to cutting off the center tube, instead I just bored the air holes to 1/16th holes
    I'd love to buy a tank & cap from you though

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobC View Post
    You missed mentioning the new tank glass & top cap, looks fantastic!
    I've done your other adjustments already, with exception to cutting off the center tube, instead I just bored the air holes to 1/16th holes
    I'd love to buy a tank & cap from you though

    Here is the area of the air passages, based on my measurements

    Area of the 3 external ~1mm holes = 2.356

    Area of the 4 internal ~0.8mm holes in center tube = 2.010

    Area of the ~1.6mm ID of the center tube = 2

    I need to double check the center tube ID but it looks to be the most restrictive by quite a bit. So likely opening up the three outside holes didn't gain anything.

    I have a Taifun GT and it uses a 1.2mm air hole and I don't mind it.


    Edit - I lied the center hole is ~1.6mm
    Last edited by bapgood; 10-30-2013 at 08:06 PM.
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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapgood View Post
    Here is the area of the air passages, based on my measurements

    Area of the 3 external ~1mm holes = 2.356

    Area of the 4 internal ~0.8mm holes in center tube = 2.010

    Area of the ~1.2mm ID of the center tube = 1.113

    I need to double check the center tube ID but it looks to be the most restrictive by quite a bit. So likely opening up the three outside holes didn't gain anything.
    I have a Taifun GT and it uses a 1.2mm air hole and I don't mind it.
    I bored the 4 internal holes to 1/16 (1.5875mm) each

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobC View Post
    I bored the 4 internal holes to 1/16 (1.5875mm) each
    Did you notice more air flow?

    I'm pretty sure the center tube ID is the most restrictive (unless the others are blocked )
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