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Thread: Fogger v2 performance upgrades

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    Default Fogger v2 performance upgrades

    So the Fogger v2 has turned into a superb and currently favorite setup for me, and I wanted to share a few of the things I did along the way to make it perform the best it can, as well as a few tips/warnings and a bunch of pics.

    e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachment.php?s=9d7534cf3e45e8a5c82ac5b53ad15524&attachmentid=261948&d=1381812858" id="attachment261948" rel="Lightbox_10982623" >Fogger v2 performance upgrades-img_20131014_213844.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-img_20130925_012211.jpg
    This setup is running 3mm Ekowool, a .9 ohm 28g coil and is sitting on an 18350 8 diagrams mod.
    Other than the learning curve on the builds, the biggest limiting point on the Fogger v2 is the air flow. Here's the innards of the air flow control as they come:

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-966995_639519752735895_1498204570_o.jpg
    The red circle shows the air flow tube limitation as it comes. This is the part that really causes the Fogger v2 to have a tight draw.

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-img_20131013_160731.jpg
    Number 1 shows the air flow tube cut off. This tube is thin enough to be broken off with a sturdy set of pliers. It provides no conductivity, only air restriction. There is also an insulator which the air tube normally fits into when pressing up into the center hole seen in number 2 this also should be removed. Number 3 shows the insulator around the positive screw post, more on that later.

    Clearing out the air path, immediately makes this mod a contender, and can be done with a simple wire cutter or even broken off with a pliers.

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-img_20131013_155238.jpg
    For those that just need that extra air, it can be pushed a bit further with a 1/16th drill bit opening the 3 external holes a bit more and giving more range for the air control. I don't feel this is necessary, but if you have the tools you can feel the air increase. The compromise is less vacuum in the atomizer chamber so your wick building has to be even better. You may find slower wicks are helped by dialing the air back down with the air flow, if you decide to open up these holes.

    More details in the next post.

    Starting over October 2012
    How to make a Carto friendly Drip Tip

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    Default Fogger Safety and tips

    One danger on the Fogger v2 is the way the positive power connects up from the Positive Screw through the bottom of the Air Control Disk onto the + post contact in the bottom of the Deck and through to the + post in the Atomizer Chamber.

    This leaves 3 areas that can short out. The main cause of shorting is the positive post being adjusted too long for the mod it is connected to. So long as it is adjusted precisely, no shorting, but there are a few preventative measures that can be taken, I'll illustrate.

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-2-.jpg
    If the + post screw is adjusted too long, it can cause the AFC Disk to tilt upwards and contact the Negative Deck.

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-2-c.jpg
    Too long of a + Post Screw pressing up on the +Post in the Deck can also cause that post to lean out towards the negatively charged wall after extended use. Here are two preventative measures you can add to buffer over lenghthy positive posts, but first and foremost CAREFULLY ADJUST THE POSITIVE FOR EACH MOD!

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-2-d.jpg Fogger v2 performance upgrades-2-b.jpg
    Use the insulator for the inside air post on the + Post Screw. You can also use the insulator from an AGA or AGI series atomizer or probably many other atomizers. You do have to cut the height down to fit the negative screw area.
    This insulator also prevents the + Post Screw from contacting the negative 510 threads for the 3rd area that can short. Again all caused by too long of a + Post Screw.

    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-2-e.jpg
    Finally from the cuttings from the insulator, or if you have a spare high temp o-ring (think silicone), you can add it to the + Post in the Atomizer Chamber. If you do this, keep in mind how large you make it. You need clearance between this ring and the coil built. A longer Half cylinder might be better.

    Starting over October 2012
    How to make a Carto friendly Drip Tip

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    Default A Fogger Built in pictures

    I think the pictures tell the tale pretty well...



    Fogger v2 performance upgrades-3a.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-3b.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-3c.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-3e.jpgFogger v2 performance upgrades-3f.jpg
    scote, levisdaddy, mob1900 and 7 others like this.

    Starting over October 2012
    How to make a Carto friendly Drip Tip

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    Thanks for the info. I will try this out tomorrow after work.

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    Very nice work! How do I get the bottom to open up to do this? Mine is working well now that I got the coil right. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

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    Awesome thread! Mine came in the mail yesterday. The first few builds I attempted resulted in either flooding or dry hits. The air flow also seemed tight, even when adjusted fully open.

    I'll try some of your tricks tonight.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokke View Post
    Very nice work! How do I get the bottom to open up to do this? Mine is working well now that I got the coil right. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
    The AFC section is threaded together, not press fit. Unscrew the very bottom section of the Atty and the air flow tube can be pulled out. When you reassemble the unit, make sure the silicone air-flow diverter is not blocking the holes. Many people have this issue alone, and complain about an impossibly tight draw.
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    Is it a real PITA to get the two parts separated?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shagathlete View Post
    Is it a real PITA to get the two parts separated?
    It sure can be. I had to wrap the bottom AFC deck in a piece of leather and get a pair of vice grips around it. The leather or thick cloth can stop you from damaging the metal. Then the slots in the Atty chamber can be used to unscrew it. I laid the back side of my good sized pocket knife into the slots and turned it like a screwdriver basically. Once the pieces Pop and come loose, it has nice threads, they are just tightened on some way more than others.

    Another guy here in town, who got one from the same shipment, actually had the bottom come off before the top cap did when he opened it the first time.

    Starting over October 2012
    How to make a Carto friendly Drip Tip

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    vapemaster of evil!!! Verified Member
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    I donned a pair of nitrile gloves and it came off with little issue...

    lies... it's all lies...I've spent over $500 on vapeware and juice this past month!
    ​granted... I've set up three vapers with this investment...

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