I took my Nimbus V3 to a shop and the guy there showed me how to make the coils and put them in. I asked him about burning the wire first and he said it was not necessary. He put in only one coil and put it on my MVP 2.0, showed me how to check the ohms, and proceeded to heat the wire with my device. He said this was sufficient for burning the wire. Is this true or could it be that this is why it barely gives off any vapor?? I want to add another coil but, if this is the wrong way to do it, I want to know beforehand. Also, can anyone tell me what my ohms should be with the MVP 2.0 and about how many wraps that would be, when using 2 coils?
RDA Burning the wire
- Thread starter MsGoddess2U
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It's totally fine to do the first heating by pulsing the unwicked coil. With thin wire, 30 gauge or higher, it helps to heat the wire before coiling to remove some of the springiness. It would still need to be pulsed after coiling to make adjustments and set the shape.
I torch my wire mainly to take out some springiness and help straighten out any kinks.
OH...OK! So...On one hand, I find that relieving cuz I don't have to try and dig out my torch heads or buy new ones but, on the other hand, I find it bothersome because now I'm back to square one with an RDA that isn't producing any vapor. I would like to get this thing working right so I can use it to test my new batches of juice.
Did you consider that the burning process, whether with a touch or on the device, is not your issue. Could have device or other build related issues. The purpose of torching a coil is for workability purposes and to clean the wire, help make pretty coils. It does not prevent the need/desire to dry burn your coils on the device to eliminate hot spots. Fact is it is NOT required to burn the coil, at all, just seems to work out better when you do.
there are 2 main reasons for heating the wire..
pre heating ( torching it) removes the stiffness ( anneals) to allow for easier forming of the coil
dry burning/glowing the coil ( after it is in the atty) causes oxidation to occur which creates an "insulation" to coat the wire to keep the coils that touch each other from becoming a short path making the coil have less ohms than designed to have
pre heating ( torching it) removes the stiffness ( anneals) to allow for easier forming of the coil
dry burning/glowing the coil ( after it is in the atty) causes oxidation to occur which creates an "insulation" to coat the wire to keep the coils that touch each other from becoming a short path making the coil have less ohms than designed to have
Before this post, I thought burning the wire was to get the coating off. I have limited experience with such things in my past and, if you didn't burn your screen, it interfered with your hit (that's as much detail as you're getting...lol)!!! Now that I've tried to make some coils with the wire, I'm convinced that
I need to find my old torch heads and go get a bottle of propane
The dry burn, as you put it, the guy explained was for a different reason. He said it was to make sure the coil was heating evenly. I watched a video and that guy had made a dual coil, which is my goal, and he said it was to make sure both sides were heating evenly. If not, one side may have gotten an extra wrap or there might have been some space between a couple wraps.
I watched another video and that guy grabbed some wick, folded it in half, and wrapped wire around it only 3X and called it good. I am clueless here but I'm guessing this was a sub ohm build....??
I know that my ohms cannot be lower than .8 for my MVP 2.0 but what if I want to use the RDA on my 1300 mAh spinner?? What should the ohms be for that?
I know I have a lot of questions but one thing I'm FINALLY learning in this life is that it's OK not to know and to ask those who do know and knowledge is not gained, if one is not actively seeking the answers
No, I have not considered that because I know nothing about this. This is my first RDA and actually, I'm not even sure if it's an RDA or an RBA. I gotta find the definitions again. I found it on sale for $10 and figured that was a good price for something to learn with, plus, my only reason for getting it is to test my flavors, without having to throw out perfectly good coils that have a nasty and too strong flavor stuck in them...
I think torching was more important back when more people DID wrap wire right around the wick - that was the only time you could make it burn red hot and get any coating or finger oil off, etc. Plus the oxidation thing.
Now that we're mostly building on a deck and can fire it hot without wick, I no longer torch my coils.
It is handy to see that it's getting red from the center out, and to check that your 2 coils are heating at the same rate, and to fix any "hot spots" or "hot legs" etc - before wicking.
As you your lack of vapor - that could be any number of things:
Tell or show us:
- Resistance and voltage or watt setting?
- coil placement
- wicking
- airflow
These all effect how it's gonna vape!
A photo will do wonders, and you'll get plenty of help...
Now that we're mostly building on a deck and can fire it hot without wick, I no longer torch my coils.
It is handy to see that it's getting red from the center out, and to check that your 2 coils are heating at the same rate, and to fix any "hot spots" or "hot legs" etc - before wicking.
As you your lack of vapor - that could be any number of things:
Tell or show us:
- Resistance and voltage or watt setting?
- coil placement
- wicking
- airflow
These all effect how it's gonna vape!
A photo will do wonders, and you'll get plenty of help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBpwZoxG3d0
Please take the time to learn this one : Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
All I have right now is how the guy set it up with only one coil. I find my torch head and I'm gonna try to make it a dual coil with the help I've gotten. If I continue to have problems, I'll be back...WITH PICS I really appreciate all the time every takes with answering questions around here...THANK YOU! When I'm all grown up in the vape world, I will do the same for the newbies
RDA = Rebuildable dripping atomizer
RBA = Rebuildable Atomizer
RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
RBA = both RTA and RDA
RBA = Rebuildable Atomizer
RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
RBA = both RTA and RDA
RBA - I also use it to describe bottom fed rebuildable atomizers for bottom fed mods
Now I mostly just call em attys.
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