Can I use 2 different types of wicks?

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ChelsB

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Interesting question. I never used a top wick on a PT. When I started rebuilding I read here somewhere that you don't need one if you make your own coil and use cotton. Let us know if it works better than with a single wick. Or maybe you already have somewhere in this thread.

Thanks! So do you take the top wick off before use?
 

englishmick

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Thanks! So do you take the top wick off before use?

I was talking about rebuilt coils not factory coils. When I bought factory coils I didn't take the top wick off. If that's what you meant. I believed rightly or wrongly that the factory coils had the extra wicks on top of the coil because the main wick wouldn't wick fast enough on its own.
 
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ChelsB

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there is personal challenge and then there is being masochistic :)
I rebuilt a ProTank 2 coil once...... and found it to be masochistic ;)

ever consider going into watch repair??? ;)

Lmao! No, watch repair, but I love jewelry making, so I'm used to dealing with super small beads.
 

Two_Bears

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Thanks! So do you take the top wick off before use?
The gauzy wick above the coil prevents spit back.

As i saix i rebuilt the PT heads a few times before moving to the Subtank Nano.

Always added a flavor wick. My evod used PT coil heads and spit like crazy.
 
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MacTechVpr

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The gauzy wick above the coil prevents spit back.

As i saix i rebuilt the PT heads a few times before moving to the Subtank Nano.

Always added a flavor wick. My evod used PT coil heads and spit like crazy.

Quick and dirty…you're right on both counts.

Factory clear coils were fabulously asymmetrical and frequently exhibited hot turns or leads. So a top-wick hid that.

Did they know the coils were that poor?

These coils were frequently not symmetrical within the assembly (cup) either. So a top-wick helped insulate the coil from shorting on the cup's top cap (chimney).

But the primary functional purpose of the top-wick was to fill the gap that often remained in the slot above the wick itself. Although coils loosely matched the silica diameter they didn't really match (otherwise it just would've been nigh-near impossible to thread them). So the "flavor" wick filled that gap deterring flooding and over saturation. On the other hand, these overly-hot often shorting coils were cooled by the top-wick which somewhat improved flavor, i.e. less dry hitting from scorched or cooking wick spittin' at us. That is, if you like refried beans.


All's well that ends well in that the tensioned micro and install methods solved these issues here…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!. Details and more answers there if you need. Glad to help.

(Love the tag line TB.)

Good luck all. :)
 

ChelsB

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Quick and dirty…you're right on both counts.

Factory clear coils were fabulously asymmetrical and frequently exhibited hot turns or leads. So a top-wick hid that.

Did they know the coils were that poor?

These coils were frequently not symmetrical within the assembly (cup) either. So a top-wick helped insulate the coil from shorting on the cup's top cap (chimney).

But the primary functional purpose of the top-wick was to fill the gap that often remained in the slot above the wick itself. Although coils loosely matched the silica diameter they didn't really match (otherwise it just would've been nigh-near impossible to thread them). So the "flavor" wick filled that gap deterring flooding and over saturation. On the other hand, these overly-hot often shorting coils were cooled by the top-wick which somewhat improved flavor, i.e. less dry hitting from scorched or cooking wick spittin' at us. That is, if you like refried beans.


All's well that ends well in that the tensioned micro and install methods solved these issues here…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!. Details and more answers there if you need. Glad to help.

(Love the tag line TB.)

Good luck all. :)

You are always SO helpful, thank you! That thread is full of good information!
 
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MacTechVpr

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You are always SO helpful, thank you! That thread is full of good information!

Thx do the best I can. My pleasure to try. Mebe not always right on target. Rest assured it's done until it works. And when it don't, there's no rest until the answer's found. That's lead to a few novel solutions. The goal for me's always been get new users to the most easily attainable great vape solution…and quickly. I really truly hate to do things twice so understand what a labor of love it's been to test and re-test all that I've seen here to parse the best-of-the-best utilizing strain.

Good luck C. :)
 

tckenno

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Just read through the thread and first wanted to say nice job ChelsB on the re-wick/re-build. It looks good. Is even better when it works good!

Am wondering if anyone knows whether that coil head is same as the original Evods that came in a single and dual coil version? The duals had a second taller slot cut perpendicular to the lower whereas the newer Evod2s and Glass take the taller coil head Flt Simulation pictured in which the coil orientation is the same but with a ‘flavor’ wick sandwiched between stacked coils. Is that correct?
 
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