Doc,
According to this
http://spec.e-switch.com/lambweb/52-PV4F2H011311.pdf from
here (link labeld PV4F2H011-311 Drawing), you should wire it like this . . .
You could also use pins 4 and 5, with 4 being Common and 5 being Normally Open. The Normally Open Contacts will Close when you press the button. Therefore, you absolutely
do not want to use a Common with pin 3 or pin 6.
You will have to come up with +1.8V DC for the Light from somewhere. You could use a 1.8V Zener Diode with your IMR Battery. All you need for the Light is 20mA (0.020 Amps). If you don't know how to connect a Zener, here is the very simple circuit . . .
V
in connects to the Battery (+). V
out in this case will be 1.8V to the Switch's Light.
This is a Zener Circuit Calculator
Zener Diode Calculator
Your Max Input Voltage is 4.2V.
Your Min Input Voltage is 3.2V, as set by the DNA30. (See DNA30 Spec Sheet below)
Your Output Voltage is 1.8V
Your Load Current is 20 (in MAmperes as the call it here)
Depending on the Minimum Input Voltage you select in the Calculator, the value of the Resistor will change. This Calculator will tell you the Resistor's Ohms and Watts you'll need, and the Zener's Volts and Watts. You will get components of that Wattage Rating or Higher. Since the DNA30 has a Minimum Input Voltage Spec of 3.2V, I used that. This is when the DNA30 will stop working. A Minimum Input Voltage of 3.2V calculates to be a 46.67Ω 0.12W Resistor, and a 1.8V 0.09W Zener. Since you won't find a 46.67Ω Resistor, to
make one, you need a 47Ω 1/4W
and a 6800Ω (6.8KΩ) 1/4W in Parallel. Any 1.8V Zener of greater than 0.09W will work fine... no need for overkill on the Wattage Rating here, but you may have to get a 0.5W (500mW). Take these calculated numbers to your electronics store/s and see what components that have in stock. There are other ways to get to approximately 46.67Ω. The values I gave you get there precisely, but it's not that critical for a Light. You can go
here and put in 46.67, then click Perform Search. You can probably even use a 47Ω 1/4W and be fine. I'd get a 1% Resistor in that case, or for any of them to be used in parallel, for that matter.
With all of that said, the thing about this PV4 Switch that bothers me is that in one PDF, it says it's rated at 24VDC 2A and 125VAC at 0.7A, but in the PDF I'm quoting (and in my picture above), it says it's a 48V 2A Switch, with no mention of an AC Rating. Which is it? What's up with the Specs on this Switch? If there is some kind of 2A limit on DC, then it may not be a good choice for the DNA30.
Technically, however, if it's a 24V 2A Switch, it's Rated at 48W DC. The AC Rating would be 87.5W. If it's a 48V 2A Switch, it's Rated at 96W DC. Even if you actually pushed the DNA30 all the way to 30W, you should be OK with a 48W Switch. So, in Theory, this Switch should be OK. Also, in Theory, the worst that should happen is that the Contacts in the Switch itself will burn out, and you'll have to get a better Switch.
Thinking about it, since you have a Double Pole Switch, you could use pins 1 & 2 for the DNA30
vape button, and for your Zener circuit (or whatever you use for the Switch's Light), you could use pins 4 & 5, so it is only powered up when you
vape, to make the Light work. The Battery (+) might go to pin 4, pin 5 could go to the Zener circuit V
in, and the Output of the Zener circuit is wired to the Light (+) on the Switch. This would save a current draw from the Zener circuit when it isn't needed. If you use another 1.8V Source from somewhere, you could still use pins 4 & 5 of the Switch, if necessary... depending on whether or not you want to kill power to the input of a 1.8V Light Source. The Light's (-) is permanently wired to Common Ground, no matter how you develop the power to the Light on the (+).
DNA30 WIRING
This is the Spec Sheet for the DNA30.
http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna30.pdf It includes the Pinout of the DNA30 (where each wire goes). Your PV4 Switch will be wired to pins 11 and 12. It really doesn't matter which one is Common and which is Normally Open; press the button and you Vape. You will also need two more switches for Power Up (8 & 9) and Down (2 & 3). The IMR is connected to 7 (+) and 6 (-). The recommended wire sizes are listed. You should read the entire Spec Sheet and understand it all before starting.
I think I have covered everything. Good Luck.
