Can rarely get them to heat up at same time. Any tips beyond pinch and strum? Obviously once I run 30W+ to them I won't notice much difference anyways but dry burning at low watts always shows signs they ain't near perfect.
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All kinds but velocity and around 15w usually. Need a coil jig to make more precise coils or it's just longer legs on one I'm guessing?
On a velocity deck, in my limited experience, it seems like one heats a little faster than the other but only by a second or less. I use kanthal and I dry burn mine at 30 watts. Pulse at first and then when they start to heat up a little longer pulse. I tend to concentrate more on them heating inside out and evenly with no hot spots.
If it's an obvious difference in ramp up time between the two I would check to make sure all screws are tightened. Hopefully someone with a little more experience than me can help more. Hope what little I know helps.
If it's an obvious difference in ramp up time between the two I would check to make sure all screws are tightened. Hopefully someone with a little more experience than me can help more. Hope what little I know helps.
Double, triple and quadruple check that everything is tight first! I have the same issue, everything glows great, I fiddle with them and one gets slow. Tighten everything up, and, most times, everything is happy again.
Sorry, all BUT velocity, I have 2 Post w/ 1 hole, 3 post w/ one and 2 post one hole with two hole center post. Yeah, I try to keep the wire snug it's hard to tell the point between tight and cutting through the wire I find. To tight and it snaps, usually when it's reading same resistance constantly I figure they are good. I guess they are fine, like you say as long as they work correctly with no hot spots, not great but still better then single coil. I use kanthal as well but have nichrome coming so hopefully it's not as easy to snap through as kanthal.
Basically all the hardest decks to build on consistently lol.
Suggestion! I have a few of those style decks, and I know exactly what you are saying! Instead of going through the hole, leave your legs a little longer, trap the wire under the screw head and tighten them down.
This keeps you from shearing off the leads, you know it's tight, fiddle your coils, wick them, then bend then down to the air hole height.
This keeps you from shearing off the leads, you know it's tight, fiddle your coils, wick them, then bend then down to the air hole height.
You never mentioned what resistance your coils are at..
When building a dual coil build I check the resistance after one coil is installed..then install the other one and total resistance should be half of the first coil..
I say this because I have caught myself missing a wrap or even adding a wrap rolling the two coils..it happens, and when it does my coils don't burn even.
One is always brighter than the other dry firing..
I've always had problems with the higher gauge wires like 28g up having hot legs as well..
Today I run 22, 24 and 26g Nichrome in all my builds, as these heavier wires burn evenly when installed correctly.
When new coils are installed I check resistance on a separate dedicated ohmmeter for accuracy..
Like 9 wraps of 24g Nichrome on a 3mm bit reads about 0.28 ohms for dual coils...I pulse the power at around 50w and once they are glowing evenly squeeze the wraps together while they're still hot with a pair of small needle nose pliers...install the cotton wicks, prime real well and Walla! Ready to take my first hit.. just sayin what works for me and good luck with your build.
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Ok, few tips for next build. Running 26 Kanthal currently 5/4 wrap contact coils. Depending on leg length of deck about 0.27-0.33 Ohm. I can't run much more then 35w without charging batteries everyday so I recently removed a wrap, could be part of the problem... need to wrap one in reverse with 5/4 or one is upside down. Don't see why it would matter but it may look better if I could see the bottom(top).
You come right to the point. Variations in resistance graduate output. But apart from simple error, it is symmetry in production and application that assure parity of d/c operation. Why I've promoted the use of strain as an aid to assure consistency. Then you get this…
For a variety of reasons like differences in termination contact which should be cleared even if surface wire temps are close, you'll get unbalanced output. Once this starts if allowed to persist, it will. Even if you have a perfectly matched and uniformly oxidized pair it can develop in operation. Screws back off for example. More or less than adequate wicking contact can create more accretion on one part of an element. You dry burn these and suddenly find you're unbalanced in temp.
Found that a minute bit of water, drop fractions, applied to hot zones or the hotter coil, will ...... a wind's ramp up. This serves to help bring up heat on a laggard coil suppressing the effect of the higher resistance. Applied judicially, enough to produce the required lag of the hotter side, this will get the winds quickly firing in tandem. Keep a small bottle of distilled with a metal needle tip handy at all times. Also routinely hit points of accretion in use when detected. This keeps the twins smiling.
Good luck.
Next order I'll just get 24 AWG to fix the cutting through my coils, sucks I'll need to use more watts though. Maybe I can sell the Nichrome for more then I paid, only paid $2.40 for 10m so shouldn't be hard.
Last build came out fine. Think its just these dang clones with bad screws. Oddly I lost one today for my Haze dripper tank and the spare screws are bigger better quality... lol. FreakShow RDA clone was a lose screw as well. Maybe my Bellus will be the same. I'll check it again.
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