I have been having trouble with my iStick 30 watt saying "atomizer short" I took it to the shop he said it was build up on the threads I also read online and loosened the tank (thinking I had it on too tight) and cleaned all threads in case it was not getting the proper connection. It wasn't working today, kept saying "atomizer short" and the battery was low, I plugged it in the laptop to charge it. an hour or two later I unplugged it, put more juice in it and tried using it only to find, you guessed it "atomizer short" I admitted defeat and put it on the table, I went to pick it up later and the box is really HOT! I took off the tank, tapped the button 5 times to shut it off but it's still really hot. does anyone know what i can do? I really don't want this thing to explode... wtf?
Eleaf iStick 30w overheating?!
- Thread starter honeybirdee
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First, take your atomizer off and put the iStick in a ceramic bowl, the sink, somewhere that won't catch fire(don't put it in water though).
Edit: Wanted to get that part out first. What type of atomizer are you using on it? Have you changed the coils on it? Have you tried another atomizer? If it's not atomizer related, many of the issues with iSticks were due to juice getting into the 510 connection and then into the devices internals and electronics, how long have you had it?
Edit: Wanted to get that part out first. What type of atomizer are you using on it? Have you changed the coils on it? Have you tried another atomizer? If it's not atomizer related, many of the issues with iSticks were due to juice getting into the 510 connection and then into the devices internals and electronics, how long have you had it?
I took the atomizer off first thing. I have it sitting on my counter top but I put in a bucket, a ceramic bowl sounds better lol, .... I got the atlantis tank (cause it looked badass) it does leak juice and of course I've taken it in the store before since the juice was leaking out the airflow holes and down the side of the box, i was told this was normal. I just put a new coil in, this is my 3rd coil. I change it about 1-2 weeks, my last coil I ran for probably a full 2 but i prefer to change mine sooner ( my stores always sold out of supplies). I bought it "used" for a cheaper price .. won't do that again. I was going to upgrade to an eleaf iStick 50w but now I'm not so sure. (i've had it for about a month... but only use it on my 10 min. & 30 min. break at work and occasionally at home)
It could also be the coil has shorted in the tank. It wouldn't explain why the iStick got so warm while charging, because it shouldn't be firing. Try the tank on another battery to rule out an issue with the tank. I would also clean the 510 connection with a q tip in case juice has gotten in the iStick. Juice seeping into any mod will cause issues. If the 510 pin is buggered/stuck/compressed it can cause an issue also. The 30W has a great track record.
It wasn't hot when it was charging, I didn't get hot until I unplugged, filled it with juice, tried pushing the button for a short amount of time (got the error message "atomizer short") set it on the table and when I picked it up about 20 min. later the box was really hot. I don't have another battery to put the tank on but i did notice juice in places it shouldn't have been. I think it leaked and got into that connection.
Leaking juice is normal to an extent (not quite to the extent that you're talking about), but if it was leaking really bad, running down the side of the box, then it could've gotten into the circuitry/actual battery component. This would definitely cause problems.
Unfortunately, I'd suggest ditching the iStick altogether. I don't think you'll be able to get a replacement/money back since liquid in the box is indeed considered user error.
It does sound to me like juice in the electronics. That's a major bummer. It may very well be trashed. I would definitely stop using it. I have heard of places repairing the iStick, but do't know where to point you. I would also get rid of that tank, or at least fix it. It sounds like something is busted inside. That much leaking is not normal. The threads where the coil screws in may be damaged. The tank will be cheaper to replace than buying a new mod every time it leaks into the works.
You might find something here:
DEALS and STEALS - Deals and Steals | E-Cigarette Forum (go to last couple pages)
FORUM SUPPLIERS - ECF Forum Suppliers | E-Cigarette Forum
COUPONS - Stores - ECF E-Cigarette Coupons
Good luck in your journey.
DEALS and STEALS - Deals and Steals | E-Cigarette Forum (go to last couple pages)
FORUM SUPPLIERS - ECF Forum Suppliers | E-Cigarette Forum
COUPONS - Stores - ECF E-Cigarette Coupons
Good luck in your journey.
Well I'll tell you straight away that it's not normal for your Atlantis to leak like that, I have 3 of them and none have ever leaked on me. You bought the Atlantis used? Are you at least using authentic coils in it? If it was performing fine with other coils then it sounds like you just got a bad coil perhaps. I would try changing the coil and cautiously seeing if it was salvageable but maybe I'm just an optimist.
The atlantis I bought new. the box mod (eleaf iSick 30w i bought used) it leaks out the airflow holes below the tank. also I was loosening and tightening the tank to get rid of the atomizer short error, so it may have been my fault, but I've been having problems with about a week after i bought it. the first coil worked great, the 2nd one ... the o ring fell off and it was a jank coil, then I bought this coil and it looks fine after inspecting it. I just checked the box again (took the tank off and it's just the box mod sitting in a bowl) and it's still hot, no clue. I was looking at the Sigelei 50w and the IPV2's.
If the resistance of the head is below the istick 30 minimum resistance range of (.4) it will display the atty short warning and not fire.
The display screen should show the resistance of the head, what is the resistance?
Leaking from the air hole in the base is not normal or typical, it represents a flooded head ~ head not seated firmly into the base, missing or damaged o rings, too restricted airflow, build up of condensation in air tube or under powering the head.
IMO, 30 watts would be on the minimum end of power range for an atlantis without experiencing problems.
Always buy from reputable vendors, always check the authenticity of the product via the security code on the packaging in the area provided on the manufacturers web site.
If the security code /# has been checked before even once you have a fake / counterfeit / knock off product, it may not function correctly and you may not have any recourse for refund replacement or credit for malfunctioning product.
The display screen should show the resistance of the head, what is the resistance?
Leaking from the air hole in the base is not normal or typical, it represents a flooded head ~ head not seated firmly into the base, missing or damaged o rings, too restricted airflow, build up of condensation in air tube or under powering the head.
IMO, 30 watts would be on the minimum end of power range for an atlantis without experiencing problems.
Always buy from reputable vendors, always check the authenticity of the product via the security code on the packaging in the area provided on the manufacturers web site.
If the security code /# has been checked before even once you have a fake / counterfeit / knock off product, it may not function correctly and you may not have any recourse for refund replacement or credit for malfunctioning product.
This. We were previously thinking that with the Atlantis you were using the .5 coil heads, but if you were using one of the .3 coils from an Atlantis 2 which looks the same and will fit in that atomizer, that may have caused an issue. On the side of the coil it should show the ohm reading of that coil. Good call Topwater Elvis.
I've been running one of my Atlantis with .5 coil on my Cloupor Mini(30w also) for a long time now and not had any issues. 30w is about the mid range for those coils I believe, so I don't think the leaking was due to under-powering it. But you did mention a lot of good ideas where it may be coming from.
But it sounds like time for a new mod anyways if it's still hot at this point that's no good.
I have the atlantis replacement tank, using .5 coils... the shop hooked me up with everything and i went back a week or so later to get the aspire atlantis replacement tank, which the guy at the shop told me would work. The eleaf 30 watt finally cooled down i just recharged the battery, (thought about putting the first tank i got back on to see if it'll work. but I'm about to buy a 50 watt sigelei so hopefully i don't have any issues with that, also I've been educating myself a lot more so I don't make any more noob mistakes.
Aspire Atlantis Hollowed Out Tube Replacement Tank Now In Stock at HDV | E-Cigarette Forum
I was using this aspire tank, i think that is my problem, but the guy at the shop told me it would work and even put it on for me, I thought it looked awesome so i got it.
I was using this aspire tank, i think that is my problem, but the guy at the shop told me it would work and even put it on for me, I thought it looked awesome so i got it.
I've been using my 2 eleaf isticks 30W for over 5 months with no issues. I did meet several people who complained that the buttons on their istick 30W failed or that the battery life was poor. As most vaping products are manufactured in China (where counterfeiting appears to be a national pastime), counterfeit products are a real problem. I only purchase hardware and e-juice from ECF recognized retailers and never had a problem. My hardware of choice is the eleaf istick 30W with the Aspire Nautilus Mini BVC. I travel with 3 Minis - each with a different flavor juice. On October 7, 2015 I'll be 3 years tobacco free.
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