Kanger occ .5 vs Alantis .5 coils

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Slips

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Fellow vapers,

Just thought I would throw a bit of my recent experiences out there for anyone who cares.
Having built my own coils for quite some time I never thought I would go back to mass produced clearos.
Then December rolled around, short on time for just about everything I saw the Alantis and figured maybe it would hold me over until I could get back to building.
Impressed with its preformance, picked up some extra coils (.5 ohm), and set about the holidays. The only issue I had with the Alantis was that with the juice i was using at the settings I preferred I was swapping out coils every 15ml or so.
Then came the Kanger sub tank. Didn't care for how big it was but since it held twice as much juice easily and the coils were made of cotton curious got the best of me and I tried one out. Again I was impressed with its preformance for what it was.

Compairing the two was like apples and oranges in quite a few ways.
But the one comparison that i figured might help someone one fence about one over the other was price in the long run just using manufactuers coils specifically how long they each last given all the same variables.

Using the same device, settings, juice, etc... my experience has been:
Alantis coils last 15-20ml max before issues arose that required coil being changed.
Sub-Tank OCC last 30-45ml and probaly could have gone longer had I not been so insistant on changing it at the flavor loss point.

Hopefully i can post some pics, info in the future, but i hope this info was useful. Written in sorta a rush so please excuse any spelling, grammer, basic english errors.
 

Slips

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Good point.

Both are for the most part pretty simple to install, but every now and then the Alantis coil will stay attached to the chimney when unscrewing the base for a refill, and although I know some use that as an advantage to fill an extra ml of juice it could also create connection issues when reinstalling the base.

My main point of this thread was taking two attys, that I think were targeted at the same type of vapist, and comparing the on going use cost.
That being said we could also include comparisons in design that affect ease of use, replacement parts, upgrades that make the devices more diverse in terms of their user base. Such as the bigger tanks already out there for the Alantis, the smaller tanks that on their way for the sub-tank, and as i understand it both tanks have nickel coils in their future for those dna-40 users.

Of course all these mods will cost you extra cash, but are hopefully a one time purchase and lead to more enjoyment of your original purchase.

Coils on the other hand, if your not rebuilding your purchasing again and again.
The temp control of the nickel wire may make the life span of either coil a lesser issue for the dna-40 users, but eventually even those will need to be changed out.
I noticed recently, on a Nautilus nickel coil, that if left sitting inactive for to long the coil for lack of better words gets clogged and has to be replaced.

Well just my observations so far, please add any experiences/advice that you think may help others out. The less money we gotta spend on up keep of these devices the more we have for all our other toys.
 

Slips

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It's all dependent on the juice.

I have a flavor that I have run over 60 ml through ONE Atlantis coil and it's still going strong.
Where-as a different flavor I only got 6 ml through ONE Atlantis coil. I quit using that flavor.

Ive got well over 30ml of 70VG or higher juice through my Atlantis coil and its still going strong. I run mine at around 25watts.

Treasure Island
Vape Wild On Cloud Custard
Charlies Custard
Commodore Pearry
Neptunes Nectar

Do you have the Kanger sub-tank so you can give us comparisons? If your coils lasted that long maybe in the Kanger they would last longer?
The juice I tested with first was a common 50/50, now Im going on to test others and will report back.
Maybe one coil is better than the other for x/y ratios.
 

Guzz

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Oct 31, 2014
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Do you have the Kanger sub-tank so you can give us comparisons? If your coils lasted that long maybe in the Kanger they would last longer?
The juice I tested with first was a common 50/50, now Im going on to test others and will report back.
Maybe one coil is better than the other for x/y ratios.
Sadly, I don't have the Kanger. I'm quite content sticking with my Atlantis and my Nautilus's.

I should have added a note on the juices that I tried, they were both 20/80 (PG/VG), 3mg/ml nicotine. Just different flavors. The shop I get them from, makes them right in front of me. So they used the exact same bottle of PG/VG source. One was dark and sweet, the other clear and fruity. The clear and fruity is the longer lasting.
 
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Croak

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Owning both an Atlantis and a Subtank, I simply like hitting the Atlantis better, it's a cooler vape at 25-30w, whereas the Kanger at sub-ohm 25w or 1.2 ohm 18w was freaking hot with wide open airflow. Hot vape just doesn't work for me. (I should mention I vape 70% VG or higher in both) And the Subtank with the RBA was both too hot and too restrictive. Plus it seeps juice constantly. Plus it always added a dirty gym sock taste with the factory cotton. Felt like I wasted $50.

So just before sending the Subtank to the Island of Misfit Vape Gear, I decided to try rebuilding the 0.5 ohm OCC, not just rewicking. Did a 28ga/3mm spaced Kanthal coil with 7 wraps putting it at about 1.4 ohm, then wicked it with my own (not Kanger supplied!) organic cotton, put it all back together, let it soak for a bit, and hit it at 18w.

OK, that's the business! Cool vape with plenty of flavor and decent cloud density, no wicking issues, no funk taste. Far superior to either stock coil IMHO, what with my extreme dislike of hot vapor. Next time I might go with 24ga or 26ga and run a few more wraps just to get more surface area and see how that works. Still not as good overall as the Atlantis to me, but not a total waste of money for me now, and there's much to be said for a 6ml tank capacity. :)

And it's just STUPID easy to rebuild. It's easier than using the supplied RBA deck, I kid you not. Seriously. Easier. Than. The. R. B. A.

The only "hard" part is getting that press-fit top cap off, but even that's a snap (no pun intended) with a vice and a pair of pliers. You can rebuild without doing that, but it limits the length of your coil a good deal, pretty much forcing you to low gauge/low resistance coils that will fit through the smaller hole.

And folks, when I say it's easy, do keep in mind I twisted my first coil ever this last week.
 
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erikbal

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Owning both an Atlantis and a Subtank, I simply like hitting the Atlantis better, it's a cooler vape at 25-30w, whereas the Kanger at sub-ohm 25w or 1.2 ohm 18w was freaking hot with wide open airflow. Hot vape just doesn't work for me. (I should mention I vape 70% VG or higher in both) And the Subtank with the RBA was both too hot and too restrictive. Plus it seeps juice constantly. Plus it always added a dirty gym sock taste with the factory cotton. Felt like I wasted $50.

So just before sending the Subtank to the Island of Misfit Vape Gear, I decided to try rebuilding the 0.5 ohm OCC, not just rewicking. Did a 28ga/3mm spaced Kanthal coil with 7 wraps putting it at about 1.4 ohm, then wicked it with my own (not Kanger supplied!) organic cotton, put it all back together, let it soak for a bit, and hit it at 18w.

OK, that's the business! Cool vape with plenty of flavor and decent cloud density, no wicking issues, no funk taste. Far superior to either stock coil IMHO, what with my extreme dislike of hot vapor. Next time I might go with 24ga or 26ga and run a few more wraps just to get more surface area and see how that works. Still not as good overall as the Atlantis to me, but not a total waste of money for me now, and there's much to be said for a 6ml tank capacity. :)

And it's just STUPID easy to rebuild. It's easier than using the supplied RBA deck, I kid you not. Seriously. Easier. Than. The. R. B. A.

The only "hard" part is getting that press-fit top cap off, but even that's a snap (no pun intended) with a vice and a pair of pliers. You can rebuild without doing that, but it limits the length of your coil a good deal, pretty much forcing you to low gauge/low resistance coils that will fit through the smaller hole.

And folks, when I say it's easy, do keep in mind I twisted my first coil ever this last week.

I've also been very pleased with my Atlantis. I haven't tried a subtank yet so I can't compare the two. I love all the sub ohm clearos that are coming out. The melo, delta ll, Atlantis, subtank and one from smok I can't remember the name of. The delta ll is getting great reviews from the few that I've seen on YouTube.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 

Slips

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Hey Croak,

Thanks for your input.
If you don't mind me asking, how many coils (OCC) did you try before coming that conclusion?
What was your airflow set at?

The reason I ask, and maybe its just me, neither the Alantis or Sub-tank gave me a hot vape at all. On any of the airflow settings I would get warm vapor at most.
Maybe it was the higher vg juice that you mentioned not feeding well enough, leading to a hotter vape? When you pulled the coil apart to rebuild did you see anything that may give an answer some of these questions?

Glad you were able to rebuild it and not have to take a 50$ loss.
 

Slips

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I've also been very pleased with my Atlantis. I haven't tried a subtank yet so I can't compare the two. I love all the sub ohm clearos that are coming out. The melo, delta ll, Atlantis, subtank and one from smok I can't remember the name of. The delta ll is getting great reviews from the few that I've seen on YouTube.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Just checked out you tube for the Delta II and Smok. Crazy how many tanks are going this direction. Might have to change the title of the thread because all the enteries into this niche. I never saw myself going back to prebuilt big brand attys but the preformance of the Sub-tank and Alantis surprised me and the Delta II has me looking for a place to pick one up.

The birth of a new class of vape equipment, the MC-rta, multiple choice or rebuildable tank atomizer. Thanks for pointing those out to me Erik.

Well I hope to get one of each, and keep the info flowing on my original purchases of the Alantis and Sub-Tank as well.

Time to get my photo bucket account back up and running too.

Back to watching the playoffs for now...vape on
 

Croak

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Hey Croak,

Thanks for your input.
If you don't mind me asking, how many coils (OCC) did you try before coming that conclusion?
What was your airflow set at?

The reason I ask, and maybe its just me, neither the Alantis or Sub-tank gave me a hot vape at all. On any of the airflow settings I would get warm vapor at most.
Maybe it was the higher vg juice that you mentioned not feeding well enough, leading to a hotter vape? When you pulled the coil apart to rebuild did you see anything that may give an answer some of these questions?

Glad you were able to rebuild it and not have to take a 50$ loss.

I bought a five pack of 0.5 OCC when I bought the Subtank, and I went through all of them, all super hot at 25w+ (and my box mod won't fire a 0.5 OCC that reads as 0.6 ohm below 23w/3.6v). All super hot after a few pulls. Do keep in mind I take 4-5 second deep lung hits at max airflow, and chain vape 3mg juice when at home or in the car. It's those long lung hits that were the main attraction for both the Kanger and the Aspire subohm tanks. Reducing airflow and still lung hitting made it worse, as to be expected. Doing mouth to lung and shorter draws with any airflow setting, it still is too warm for me, though not as warm.

The 1.2 ohm coil at 15-18w also gets warm, just takes a couple more pulls to get to the uncomfortable stage. I should also mention that I NEVER got a dry hit, it was wicking just fine with my vaping style, always great vapor and good taste (if you discount the funk being added). Just too damn hot.

The OCC I used for the rebuild was one that I'd tried re-wicking earlier to get rid of the funky taste, and in the trial-and-error process of finding out how much wick worked without dry hits or gurgling, I messed up the coil spacing, and it finally popped when dry firing it.

I've went through over a tank on the 1.4 ohm rebuild now, and it's gotten slightly gurgle-prone just once, but it cleared up quickly.

Damn thing still seeps juice from the bottom though.
 

catalinaflyer

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Going on week 5 and near the bottom of the second 120 ml bottle of 50/50 6mg Red Bull (Water Clear) juice on the original Atlantis coil. Got 2 weeks and just under 120 ml bottle on my KST .5, 50/50 6mg Spiced Cider (Slight Amber). Just put the included 1.2 coil in the KST today and wish I had put it in to begin with, still set at 25 watts on my SMY 260 and man oh man oh man (Tire Rack Commercial) what an amazing amount of perfect flavor and vapor. My Opinion.

I also rather enjoy Salted Caramel juice but haven't even tried it in either the KST or Atlantis. It's a coil killer so I drip it in my Origen RDA along with my Heavenly Custard which also kills coils.

I just ordered two more KST's and a pair of Sigelei 150's since my wife decided she really liked mine today and tried to keep it.
 

Darryl Licht

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Hi everyone, just thought I'd chime in here...

If you own an Atlantis, try rewicking the heads with Japanese cotton. It so improved the flavor and draw for me. I little bit of a PITA, but can be done with ease after you get the hang of it. I even made a new .8 ohm coil and will continue to experiment after I get more wire!

After reading this thread and watching several sub tank mini vid reviews I think that will be my next tank to compare to the Atlantis.
 

Slips

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Slips,
Do you get the clogged Aspire nickel coil back working?
Been using them for 3 days, all OK on a XPV @500dF & 13W so far but have to blow into tank to release the vacuum from the high juice use.

What i meant was i left the filled tank with a coil in it unused for more than a few weeks.
Ive noticed, having done this in the past, that it for lack of better words clogs the coil. Or so i assume. Maybe your right and it has something to do with the vacuum.
I'll look into it when i get a chance. Thanks for the thought.
 

Slips

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Darryl,

Totally agree, but i build horozontial 2mm tightly wrapped coils 26g (between 5 and 8 wraps depending on what resistance im going for) and just run the wick straight thru the wick hole, coil, other wick hole and then trim the outer parts just enough to not get grabbed by the chimney. I have to say i like the flavor and clouds better than the orginals. I think the rebuilt coils just had a overall better preformance in quite a few areas and a wider range of capability.
Also tried with 28g and higher resistance,1.2 and 1.4 ohm builds, and again liked it better.

With the kanger you can just rewick the orginal coil assuming you didn't mess with the coil to much when pulling out the old wick.
But recoiling the kanger is not to hard either, after 2 trys, second one being a sucess, I again went with a 2mm coil tightly wrapped and just pushed it thru the top like i had seen on some you tube vid. Preformance was great, though i wouldn't say i liked it better than the orginals, came out even on this one.

My conclusion now on both coils is that they both a simple enough to rebuild, and adjust to my personnal taste that the only reason i would buy coils is for convience.
That being said my orginal sub-tank coils have outlasted the Alantis coils on most juices I use. Clouds and flavor on both tanks were great and if thats your deciding factor for purchase then hopefully you can try both before buying.

One more thing to add, when cleaning my Alantis tanks between coils, jucies, etc... i found soot( using a q-tip) in the chimney section above the coil stop but below where the drip tip sets. Has anyone else found the same? Still trying to track down the exact cause of this so i don't blame the coil in a hasty judgement.

With a Delta II on the way i will have one more set of trials with all 3 using the same variables. Of course i will report back here with what i find.

Thanks to everyone who has been helping me out with these comparisons.
 
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