Kanger Sub Box Mini question
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basically anything with a 510 thread on it will work, assuming you build the coils within the acceptable range. Ideally, you want one with an adjustable center pin since I don't believe your subox has one.
The mutation should work just fine, but you will probably be closing off a lot of the airflow.
The mutation should work just fine, but you will probably be closing off a lot of the airflow.
what do you mean by closing off a lot of the airflow? I know that the air holes are adjustable for flavor chasing or cloud chasing, do you mean I'd have the bottom holes covered and the sides air holes completely? If I close off the airflow completely will that make the RDA hotter faster?
The mutation RDAs have A LOT of airflow. Typically, the only time I have mine all the way open is if I am going for monstrous clouds and running at the full 150 watts my mod can put out and not too worried about flavor. If I am just using it regularly, all the airflow being open would just give far too airy of a vape and kill the flavor.
As for closing it off, you only want to close it off to the point that the vape is the best in your opinion. Some people like a tight draw. Some like a loose draw. The more you close it off, the quicker the RDA will physically get warm(less airflow going through it to cool it off). If you close it off completely, you will have a VERY hard time drawing any air through it(since it is closed off and all).
Mine doesn't have the holes in the bottom, but if you use most of the airflow from those, it should enhance flavor a bit. Too much air is the enemy of flavor, though. It is something you will just have to play with to find the setting you like. Everyone is different, so everyone likes something a bit different.
That is about where I run my airflow when I am just using it normally. Sometimes I will close it of just a tiny bit more than that, sometimes I will have that first column of holes completely open. It all just depends on my mood.
If you have any more questions, just post them and I will answer them soon. I'm a fat guy and hungry right now, so ima gonna go stuffa my face. After that, I will be back on here.
As for closing it off, you only want to close it off to the point that the vape is the best in your opinion. Some people like a tight draw. Some like a loose draw. The more you close it off, the quicker the RDA will physically get warm(less airflow going through it to cool it off). If you close it off completely, you will have a VERY hard time drawing any air through it(since it is closed off and all).
Mine doesn't have the holes in the bottom, but if you use most of the airflow from those, it should enhance flavor a bit. Too much air is the enemy of flavor, though. It is something you will just have to play with to find the setting you like. Everyone is different, so everyone likes something a bit different.
That is about where I run my airflow when I am just using it normally. Sometimes I will close it of just a tiny bit more than that, sometimes I will have that first column of holes completely open. It all just depends on my mood.
If you have any more questions, just post them and I will answer them soon. I'm a fat guy and hungry right now, so ima gonna go stuffa my face. After that, I will be back on here.
something to keep in mind - my subox is a bit finicky about other toppers (other than kanger subtanks) - may have to adjust centerpin underneath rda to get good connection - it is rumored that kanger is working on v2 subox that will have a spring loaded or floating centerpin
if you are looking to get into rda's, may want to consider getting another device, if it is in the budget (and it's always good to have a backup) - for basic rda use, I have had great experiences with my smok m80 (the TC mode is bogus, but for regular wattage modes it rocks) and a variety of rdas
if you are looking to get into rda's, may want to consider getting another device, if it is in the budget (and it's always good to have a backup) - for basic rda use, I have had great experiences with my smok m80 (the TC mode is bogus, but for regular wattage modes it rocks) and a variety of rdas
ok thank you, I started with a small blackhat pen, then upgraded to the Aspire Sub ohm mod and Atlantis tank. I researched the Kanger mini and was sold on it. I'm just trying to see what fits when it comes to all these variable voltage, variable wattage, regulated and mechanical mods. I am enjoying the kanger mini and my Atlantis is compatible with the mod too which makes swapping juices convenient.
the kanger subox is an excellent device, imo, for price and intended purpose - versatile with kanger subtanks/ coil choices/ rba option - love it (vaping on one right now)
it sometimes doesn't seem to want to play nice with other toppers - so I generally just use kanger subtanks on it, as i have a couple
it sometimes doesn't seem to want to play nice with other toppers - so I generally just use kanger subtanks on it, as i have a couple
Mine came with the fins on there. That is the way the V2 was made.
If the airflow body is the same size for the V4 and V2, you can probably just use the V2 cap on there if you really wanted the fins that bad. I don't have a V4 to try my V2 cap on, though.
If the airflow body is the same size for the V4 and V2, you can probably just use the V2 cap on there if you really wanted the fins that bad. I don't have a V4 to try my V2 cap on, though.
Thanks I appreciate the help, I don't think I need them I have just read that they help with heat reduction.
something with lots of room, lol - i have a mutation v3 - good 4 post deck, deep juice well - the mutations are good rdas
my personal favorite is the twisted messes by compvape - similar deck but seems like it has more room to work with - the 13 heavens, 9 hells is also excellent (also by compvape)
my personal favorite is the twisted messes by compvape - similar deck but seems like it has more room to work with - the 13 heavens, 9 hells is also excellent (also by compvape)
I'll start looking around and research some RDAs, I appreciate the input.
that good sir is an understatement...hahaha. I have been looking around at reviews on youtube with ppl like rip trippers and suckmymod.
In short You build your atomizer for quantity of vapor... lower ohms = more potential for vapor = more power to run. Once the vapor is made, it needs to mix with air to both cool and move it. more air = more vapor quantity = less flavor. most people find a good balance that works for them between power, airflow, and ohms. [end of short answer]
Me, I am mainly a tootie puffer, which means I vape a fairly high ohms with a fairly low airflow at low ohms. I do have a mutation X clone, derringer, and tugboat drippers, but for my all day vape, I am currently using a Taifun GT @ 1.5 ohms, or a subtank @ 1.0 ohms (I rebuild the stock heads). When I do want to blow clouds, I put my derringer or mutation X (both built at .2 ohms) on my Sigeli 100 and kick the watts up to around 60. I do have a few mech mods, but I am down to one Sony VTC4, and just ordered a few more so I can start using my mechanical mods more (I refuse to use anything but Sonys in a mech mod).
The Mutation X is a good variable dripper, but it was designed to be a cloudchasing atomizer with flavor chasing secondary. It has good deep wells, four post design on the later versions, and a huge airflow. There have been several versions released, and even more clones made. To get a an idea, here's listings for Mutation X clones from one place I frequently order from. As you can see, there's a huge variety and versions out there. Some have heat sinks, some have chuff caps, some can barely be called a mutation X. Some even joke about mutation X styled spoons:
In either case, to upgrade from my horrible version, I have my eye on this one. If I had to offer an alternative dripper, I'd recommend a Derringer. It is a lot smaller of an air chamber, which gives better flavor, and it has enough airflow to be good. It does get hot though, but it's still a good dripper.
I know I link a lot to Fasttech, but it's my main supplier. They have both good and bad stuff, so buyer beware. Still, they have good prices.
Me, I am mainly a tootie puffer, which means I vape a fairly high ohms with a fairly low airflow at low ohms. I do have a mutation X clone, derringer, and tugboat drippers, but for my all day vape, I am currently using a Taifun GT @ 1.5 ohms, or a subtank @ 1.0 ohms (I rebuild the stock heads). When I do want to blow clouds, I put my derringer or mutation X (both built at .2 ohms) on my Sigeli 100 and kick the watts up to around 60. I do have a few mech mods, but I am down to one Sony VTC4, and just ordered a few more so I can start using my mechanical mods more (I refuse to use anything but Sonys in a mech mod).
The Mutation X is a good variable dripper, but it was designed to be a cloudchasing atomizer with flavor chasing secondary. It has good deep wells, four post design on the later versions, and a huge airflow. There have been several versions released, and even more clones made. To get a an idea, here's listings for Mutation X clones from one place I frequently order from. As you can see, there's a huge variety and versions out there. Some have heat sinks, some have chuff caps, some can barely be called a mutation X. Some even joke about mutation X styled spoons:
In either case, to upgrade from my horrible version, I have my eye on this one. If I had to offer an alternative dripper, I'd recommend a Derringer. It is a lot smaller of an air chamber, which gives better flavor, and it has enough airflow to be good. It does get hot though, but it's still a good dripper.
I know I link a lot to Fasttech, but it's my main supplier. They have both good and bad stuff, so buyer beware. Still, they have good prices.
In short You build your atomizer for quantity of vapor... lower ohms = more potential for vapor = more power to run. Once the vapor is made, it needs to mix with air to both cool and move it. more air = more vapor quantity = less flavor. most people find a good balance that works for them between power, airflow, and ohms. [end of short answer]
Me, I am mainly a tootie puffer, which means I vape a fairly high ohms with a fairly low airflow at low ohms. I do have a mutation X clone, derringer, and tugboat drippers, but for my all day vape, I am currently using a Taifun GT @ 1.5 ohms, or a subtank @ 1.0 ohms (I rebuild the stock heads). When I do want to blow clouds, I put my derringer or mutation X (both built at .2 ohms) on my Sigeli 100 and kick the watts up to around 60. I do have a few mech mods, but I am down to one Sony VTC4, and just ordered a few more so I can start using my mechanical mods more (I refuse to use anything but Sonys in a mech mod).
The Mutation X is a good variable dripper, but it was designed to be a cloudchasing atomizer with flavor chasing secondary. It has good deep wells, four post design on the later versions, and a huge airflow. There have been several versions released, and even more clones made. To get a an idea, here's listings for Mutation X clones from one place I frequently order from. As you can see, there's a huge variety and versions out there. Some have heat sinks, some have chuff caps, some can barely be called a mutation X. Some even joke about mutation X styled spoons:
In either case, to upgrade from my horrible version, I have my eye on this one. If I had to offer an alternative dripper, I'd recommend a Derringer. It is a lot smaller of an air chamber, which gives better flavor, and it has enough airflow to be good. It does get hot though, but it's still a good dripper.
I know I link a lot to Fasttech, but it's my main supplier. They have both good and bad stuff, so buyer beware. Still, they have good prices.
Awesome info thanks, what would you recommend for coils to use?
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