So I've had the subbox mini for about a month now. My .5 ohm coil burned out super quick but I kno it was because of my noobiness to this whole box watts ohm deal. My new issues is that my box is jumping ohms on me with the rba sec. Coil was built at .4 ohms but jumps from that to like 3.0 ohm and everything in between. Also when I take off the tank the ohm reading stays at 9.9 when it should read zero. Also the box has been saying dead battery after I know I have switched to a fresh one. Just baffled on the whole thing and wondering what's going on and if anybody has any suggestions on what might be going on and how to fix it?
Kanger subbox mini ohm jumps
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for the ohms jumping around, i would think make sure connections are good between rba/ base and that screws are tight on coil - but with other issues, I have to wonder if it is a defective unit...
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the ohms reading 9.9 is normal. means nothings attached. zero would be a dead short
So tried the above and checked the leads they wear loose. Thanks @dcfluegel. Solved the issue and I'm back to vaping like a champ. Ohms are at a steady .3 ohms. Once again. Thanks a billion and feeling like at total noob. Lol.
I'm so glad I decided to run a full tank through my new billow v2 on my subbox mini before using it on the mechanical mod I bought it for 
. At first the build seemed fine, and the temptation to call it good was high hehe, but after about half a tank the ohm readings were getting pretty erratic and jumping from 0.4 up to 1.7 between vapes (something I haven't seen with the subtank rbas so far).
After a quick google led me here I pulled it apart and checked the screws.. one of the center screws was a good 3 or 4 turns loose :/. I think it must be the screw I was having issues with when building that I had to keep tightening it when trying to twist the end off since the 2nd coil was in the way for snipping, sure I re-tightened it after the end was off.. but who knows with my brain sometimes.
Seems a decent enough tank apart from that hickup and is sticking solidly at 0.4 ohms now, I guess it will stay on my subbox for a bit longer than I had intended to make sure that screw will stay down though.
. At first the build seemed fine, and the temptation to call it good was high hehe, but after about half a tank the ohm readings were getting pretty erratic and jumping from 0.4 up to 1.7 between vapes (something I haven't seen with the subtank rbas so far). After a quick google led me here I pulled it apart and checked the screws.. one of the center screws was a good 3 or 4 turns loose :/. I think it must be the screw I was having issues with when building that I had to keep tightening it when trying to twist the end off since the 2nd coil was in the way for snipping, sure I re-tightened it after the end was off.. but who knows with my brain sometimes
.Seems a decent enough tank apart from that hickup and is sticking solidly at 0.4 ohms now, I guess it will stay on my subbox for a bit longer than I had intended to make sure that screw will stay down though.
i know i'm hijacking, so sorry. i just attached a just bought billow v2 on my subox mini mod, realised tat the ohm reading is 9.90ohm. so i assumed that no connection is made. any idea how to rectify the problem?
The most common reason that the resistance meter finds a no connection is a 510 center pin on the mod has been depressed into the mod body (usually from over-tightening the atomizer or tank).
My billow did the same for me at first MotoMudder, no connection.. good old non spring loaded center pin ecigs heh, the subtank that came with mine has squashed the 510 pin pretty low over the months. Thankfully the billow v2 has an adjustable center pin copper screw thingy. I had to use a screwdriver to loosen it to start with but after that can just adjust the height with a thumb or finger... actually a bit too loose for my liking but I guess it saves making my subbox any more recessed since it will screw itself back in if you go too far
I think by default the billow v2 may have a really low pin anyway.. seems low to me at least.
Some people in the past have recommend pulling the center pin up on the ecig/mod itself a bit after they have been squashed over time, but the few ecigs / mods I have tried that on it has only ever been a temporary fix at best, at worse has ruined them.
Edit: oh, my billow is still stable at 0.4 ohms and the screw hasn't moved in the slightest for some hours now.. phew !, think she's good.. I guess it was probably user error, like maybe because of the tinyness of the screws I was over timid in applying pressure that first time. It is a teeny little fiddly deck to work on lol, even coming from the subtank rba decks.. reminds me more of rebuilding protank etc coils
I think by default the billow v2 may have a really low pin anyway.. seems low to me at least.
Some people in the past have recommend pulling the center pin up on the ecig/mod itself a bit after they have been squashed over time, but the few ecigs / mods I have tried that on it has only ever been a temporary fix at best, at worse has ruined them
.Edit: oh, my billow is still stable at 0.4 ohms and the screw hasn't moved in the slightest for some hours now.. phew !, think she's good
.. I guess it was probably user error, like maybe because of the tinyness of the screws I was over timid in applying pressure that first time. It is a teeny little fiddly deck to work on lol, even coming from the subtank rba decks.. reminds me more of rebuilding protank etc coils
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tats the problem with my subox, i wonder i can fixed it as easily as the taste mod on the vid.
thx for the video Baditude.
i realised the 510 connector length varies greatly between the billow n subtank. i'm actually hesitant about adjusting the pin on the billow as i'm worried if it would have any impact on my ipv3 li if i were to switch tank n mod.My billow did the same for me at first MotoMudder, no connection.. good old non spring loaded center pin ecigs heh, the subtank that came with mine has squashed the 510 pin pretty low over the months. Thankfully the billow v2 has an adjustable center pin copper screw thingy. I had to use a screwdriver to loosen it to start with but after that can just adjust the height with a thumb or finger... actually a bit too loose for my liking but I guess it saves making my subbox any more recessed since it will screw itself back in if you go too far
I think by default the billow v2 may have a really low pin anyway.. seems low to me at least.
Some people in the past have recommend pulling the center pin up on the ecig/mod itself a bit after they have been squashed over time, but the few ecigs / mods I have tried that on it has only ever been a temporary fix at best, at worse has ruined them
Edit: oh, my billow is still stable at 0.4 ohms and the screw hasn't moved in the slightest for some hours now.. phew !, think she's good
Umm, make sure the bottom of the rba is screwed in all the way, sometimes it gets loose, well it did for me anyways, just unscrew it and hold the top of the rba then turn the bottom part where the airholes are clockwise.
Oops, sorry for getting your name wrong macis
.. If your billow is like mine then I don't think it should be too much of an issue since the screw is so loose it screws itself back in when I put it on anything hehe (if you are worried about forgetting to screw it back in yourself that is), it makes a good contact though so I guess it's fine. I am tempted to take another tiny o-ring off something old and putting it on the screw to see if that makes it a bit more normal in my eyes.Does it work ok on your ipv3 as it is ?
Mine doesn't work with the pin screwed back in when I use a hybrid adaptor on the m-vapes nebula I got it for so I am really glad they added an adjustable 510 to the billow, it wasn't even a feature that had registered as something cool when I bought it
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my billow is working well with the ipv3 li. the problem lies with the kbox mini. after googling, i realised its a fairly common issue with most subox mini user. the subtank mini pretty much compressed the non adjustable pin on the kbox, n after a while, the pin sort of remained at that level.Oops, sorry for getting your name wrong macis
Does it work ok on your ipv3 as it is ?
Mine doesn't work with the pin screwed back in when I use a hybrid adaptor on the m-vapes nebula I got it for so I am really glad they added an adjustable 510 to the billow, it wasn't even a feature that had registered as something cool when I bought it
i'm glad tat my kbox can still fire the subtank with no problems, it only has issues with other tank with a lower 510connector i guessed.
i'm currently attaching the ipv with billow, n let the subtank mini stick with the kbox. i'll just switch the mod to vape different juice instead of switching the tank.
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One guy on youtube also found that liquid leaking in the airflow base caused deviation of the ohms meter.
You can clean that out if some tissue, see if it helps. There is a technique to unscrew it and it's detailled
in this video:
You can clean that out if some tissue, see if it helps. There is a technique to unscrew it and it's detailled
in this video:
my billow is working well with the ipv3 li. the problem lies with the kbox mini. after googling, i realised its a fairly common issue with most subox mini user. the subtank mini pretty much compressed the non adjustable pin on the kbox, n after a while, the pin sort of remained at that level.
i'm glad tat my kbox can still fire the subtank with no problems, it only has issues with other tank with a lower 510connector i guessed.
i'm currently attaching the ipv with billow, n let the subtank mini stick with the kbox. i'll just switch the mod to vape different juice instead of switching the tank.
Yeah, it was a pretty bad design decision by kanger to make the pin fixed (or good descision if it was an attempt to make people stick with their subtanks hehe).. given the sub tank has such a long connector for the fixed depth kanger had set heh, I knew every time I screwed the tank down flush I was ruining the pin
, it just doesn't sit right in my mind to leave a mm or 2 gap on a mod + tank kit I guess As far as I can see you shouldn't have any issues adjusting the pin on the billow to work on subbox like I did, it unscrews quite a bit before it is actually detached from the base (maybe 1 full turn after the actual head of the pin has been fully exposed for me).. and screwing it back in reverts it to how you have it now. When I say it is loose I mean it's a bit easy to turn for my liking, not a fear of it falling out and getting lost or anything
Edit: Here's a pic of the pin fully removed since I got curious hehe.. the threading is on the inside, kind of cool and not what I expected
Ignore the extra threading on the base of the tank, that's part of the hybrid adaptor I use that refused to unscrew easily for a photo hehe
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hey thanks alot SpookyWooky, but hell.. i'm not unscrewing it as i can fit my subtank on the kbox mini with no prob. but really thx for ur help though!Yeah, it was a pretty bad design decision by kanger to make the pin fixed (or good descision if it was an attempt to make people stick with their subtanks hehe).. given the sub tank has such a long connector for the fixed depth kanger had set heh, I knew every time I screwed the tank down flush I was ruining the pin
As far as I can see you shouldn't have any issues adjusting the pin on the billow to work on subbox like I did, it unscrews quite a bit before it is actually detached from the base (maybe 1 full turn after the actual head of the pin has been fully exposed for me).. and screwing it back in reverts it to how you have it now. When I say it is loose I mean it's a bit easy to turn for my liking, not a fear of it falling out and getting lost or anything
Edit: Here's a pic of the pin fully removed since I got curious hehe.. the threading is on the inside, kind of cool and not what I expected
Ignore the extra threading on the base of the tank, that's part of the hybrid adaptor I use that refused to unscrew easily for a photo hehe
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