I tried a google search as well as an ECF search and could not find anything relevant to my question. I just bought a Subtank Mini and have watched a few video tutorials on rebuilding. They all use OCC heads that have a top piece which pops off. My question is, has anyone rebuilt the ones that are a solid single piece rather than the bottom main piece with the removable top piece? Mine is solid just like the one in the picture. Before i tear it apart, just wondering if this makes it harder or not even possible?
Kanger Subtank Mini OCC Rebuild Question
- Thread starter Kenny Elliott
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Those solid pieces are the new vertical coils that just came out. You can still rebuild it, it's just slightly more of a pain. Rebuilding it vertically might be difficult, but making a horizontal coil should be easy (I never take the top part off my old subtank coils when rebuilding). Just wrap your coil and drop it down the chimney, making sure the legs don't touch, then do it normally and wick it afterwards.
Okay, thanks. I thought I might have to end up doing that. I wanted to do a vertical rebuild, like it comes, and like this guy: , but I figured stuffing all of that cotton in there around the coil would be impossible.
It's not impossible, just a pain in the ..... I've done a vertical rebuild in the original coils before, and when it's perfect it vapes like a dream. When it's not, and it often isn't, it's horrible. The wicking is difficult to get right. Try it out for a while, and if you get it right consistently it'd be great.
I was wondering how difficult the vertical build would be on my coil heads for the Subtank Mini so I just tried one today (experienced on the Nautilus) and it wasn't that bad. I didn't know there was a video out on it. Difficult is the Nautilus Mini coils.
I would like to get new gaskets (o rings) for the bottom of the occ coils. I have a few that I have rebuilt and used several times but now it seems that the gasket no longer seals and the juices comes out.
Anyone know where I can get them? Does anyone know the size of them?
Anyone know where I can get them? Does anyone know the size of them?
I haven't seen them anywhere (fasttech doesn't have em from what I can see). I just buy a new pack and use em til they fall apart.
You can get replacement rba coil heads 10-pack that are designed for rebuilding
$19.98 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer (10-Pack) 10-pack - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$19.98 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer (10-Pack) 10-pack - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Those look interesting but I would have to throw away the coils and build new ones i dont go below 1 ohm. I have plenty of heads just the o rings are getting shot.... I have to figure out the size of the o rings
exactly; those "occ" heads eventually need replacement of the little O-rings at the bottom if you keep rebuilding them. the rba head has screw posts; no orings to replace, plus it's a much better connection.
the oring setup isn't there because it's better; it's there because it's cheaper, and it's a throwaway product - meaning it isn't designed for you to keep rebuilding it
I have the Kanger subtank nano....so no RBA. Guess I should have bought the mini. If i find the o rings I will post the info on them.
It took some work and quite a few tries, but I managed to stuff piece of 3mm ready x wick through an OCC coil. I think the trick was to not burn it up before you change it out, not sure I have a large pile of them. Anyway, I managed to get the cotton out without abusing the wire and bending it really bad. It looked about the right size so I cut the angle on the wick and it twisted right through so I trimmed it up just a little sticking out each side and then pushed that in. Looked like a new OCC coil when I was done.
Here's the best part, I went from changeing them out every 2 to 3 days to thinking it was about time on day 7. That was the end of my experiment because I bought 2 REOs so the Subtank is in the drawer now. On the REO's Wicked with RxW I stick them under the faucet after a I dry burn them enough to see the coil start to glow. If I burn them again until the steam stops they are dry and ready to go in about an hour. The same thing should work on the OCC coil.
As for how it works, be patient, it takes a couple of tanks for things to start flowing well and the taste my be a little muted. Once it's going and broken in I thought it tasted a little better, it certainly tastes at least equal about twice as long as I was getting out of the stock coils.
Here's the best part, I went from changeing them out every 2 to 3 days to thinking it was about time on day 7. That was the end of my experiment because I bought 2 REOs so the Subtank is in the drawer now. On the REO's Wicked with RxW I stick them under the faucet after a I dry burn them enough to see the coil start to glow. If I burn them again until the steam stops they are dry and ready to go in about an hour. The same thing should work on the OCC coil.
As for how it works, be patient, it takes a couple of tanks for things to start flowing well and the taste my be a little muted. Once it's going and broken in I thought it tasted a little better, it certainly tastes at least equal about twice as long as I was getting out of the stock coils.
I love the Kanger sub tank coils for rebuilding. Vertical or horizontal. If you decide to go vertical, you might try this. Wrap your coil, then carefully bend one leg up, and the other down. Keep it on the thing you used to wrap the coil. Then wrap a piece of tape just bellow the coil and tape the leg down. this keeps the coil in place while wrapping the OCC. cut the OCC to the width of your coil plus 1 mm for the top, and one for the bottom if you can. With a bit of practice you will be able to roll the OCC around the coil like you would if you were rolling a roll your own smoke. Once you have the coild wrapped in cotton, and you have tested to see if it will slide in the coil body from the top with just a tiny bit of resistance, then bend the top leg over you cotton warped coil. who cares if it is touching the walls of the coil body, as this is gonna be the ground . Gently with a twisting motion insert the coil into the body until the bottom of the cotton touches the bottom of the body. Make sure the leg that was on the outside of the wrap is bent over the bottom of the coil body, then insert the rubber grommet or gasket with the other leg through it. Bend that over the rubber gasket and insert the positive pin and trim them both as close to he unit as you can get.....I like to adjust the coil for center and clean up any loose cotton by inserting the tool i wrapped the coil with through the coil after it is finished and adjust as needed....supper easy once you do it a few times. Things I have found....if you do micro coils, you can not work out hot legs and the rubber gasket tastes really bad...if this is an issue, and it will be more than you would like...then build a wire welder and use nickel wire for your legs..This gives you better control over the ohms and prevents any hot legs from making you vape rubber!! also like to use nichrome wire as the ohms are lower so i need less wraps to get the desired resistance....Hope this helps in some small way. If you want to make a wire welder i can give you the super easy diagram and parts list that I used...It is super easy to make, and welds 22 gauge wire or 32 gauge wire every time.....Enjoy!
Great video, i'll maybe give it a go at some point, i recoil the horizontal heads (both Kanthal and Ni200) rewicking them with Muji cotton)
Also have a couple of the new RBA heads on the way from FT
Also have a couple of the new RBA heads on the way from FT
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