My Infinite Stingray Sucks - Anyone Know How to Make It Work Properly?

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DeadbeatJeff

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When I first got it it wouldn't fire at all, so I unscrewed the bottom magnet about halfway a little. Is it normal to have to do that?


Then it works OK, but is very inconsistent. It will fire a few times, then do nothing at all, then maybe work again, then maybe fire again. the button is crunchy and wobbly as well.

I really don't want to spend $5.80 to mail this thing back. What can I do? Have tried everything I can think of, cleaning it, trying the bottom magnet at different extensions.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Same here. You have to disassemble the switch and work with it for a bit to get it set up for a shorter throw. Be careful not to lose the magnets or that tiny pin/bearing that keeps the switch from spinning. You might also try some lubicant to smoothen up the action if it's a bit crunchy.

man I worked with it for HOURS, changing the distance of the bottom magnet, greasing between the bottom magnet and the end-cap... it just sucks.

Am looking to return it tomorrow, I guess.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Ha

So, having given up on the Ray and actually ordering a different mod, a hcigar Copper Nemie, I decided to give the Ray one last chance, and messed around with the switch again, this time extending the bottom magnet and also unscrewing the derlin a little (realized I hadn't done both of those together before), and now it is working much better. Not perfect per se, but MUCH better.

I think I'll wait for the Nemie to get here and then compare them side-by side, and then either return one of them or just keep both, if they are both performing well at that point.
 

jrs99

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If you get verified you can put it up on the classified section on the forum if you plan on selling it.
Can't post counterfeits on the classifieds. If it has any of the markings of the original the sale thread will get shut down.
Best bet would be to return it if you can/want to.
 

fortytoo27

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Mine had some issues too at first, mostly with the button being crunchy and sometimes getting caught on the body tube. I've had it for two weeks now and at this point it's working fine. I tried a bunch of stuff to fix it, but I think the only thing that really made a difference is using it and breaking it in. Even the originals were reported to need some breaking in for the switch, so that's not really unusual for this device. Some of them work smoothly right out of the box, others not so much. Of course, it's still possible you got a lemon...
 

crxess

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Put everything back the way it is supposed to be.
Sit the switch on the table.
Place the Non-functional(trouble) battery on the switch and have a look.

You should see the Shrink wrap is holding the battery off the center contact. No contact = will not fire when button is pressed.
If careful, you can trim back the shrink to expose more battery bottom to rest on the contact properly.

**THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK**

Panasonic CGR's have no wrap covering the bottom.
Efest have a button stamped to equal the shrink thickness.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Put everything back the way it is supposed to be.
Sit the switch on the table.
Place the Non-functional(trouble) battery on the switch and have a look.

You should see the Shrink wrap is holding the battery off the center contact. No contact = will not fire when button is pressed.
If careful, you can trim back the shrink to expose more battery bottom to rest on the contact properly.

**THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK**

Panasonic CGR's have no wrap covering the bottom.
Efest have a button stamped to equal the shrink thickness.

not the problem, and even already cut back the wrapper on one just to make sure
 

crxess

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Misfire can only come from one thing - Open circuit
If it is not the Battery to Switch(many have found) then it has to be one of these:
Switch not closing
switch material not conductive
Threading at sections not conductive
Topper not grounding to Mod
Coil not conductive
Top pin contact

All but the switch closing and top pin are cleaning issues.
Multimeter is your friend:)
 
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DeadbeatJeff

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Misfire can only come from one thing - Open circuit
If it is not the Battery to Switch(many have found) then it has to be one of these:
Switch not closing
switch material not conductive
Threading at sections not conductive
Topper not grounding to Mod
Coil not conductive
Top pin contact

All but the switch closing and top pin are cleaning issues.
Multimeter is your friend:)

I think it was a contact problem inside the switch, as unscrewing the derlin, and lengthening the throw a touch, made a world of difference. I think the wobbly button caused by the slightly too-small rice-pin and slightly inexact tolerances were causing the button to catch on the body.

Is better now but not perfect
 
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