New Member (Intermediate-ish vapor) - A little confused about sub ohm dangers

[GreenBear]

First off I'd like to say Hello ECF!

A little bit of back story about me:

I'm 25 years old and started smoking when i was 15. I was smoking over a pack a day and usually 2 packs a day on weekends. I tried to switch to vaping numerous times over the past 2 years with no success at all.

About a month ago on my 25th birthday i was given a Joyetech ego one battery and a Subtank mini and it changed everything. Now a month later i have an istick 50w and few rda's and dont ever plan on smoking a stupid nasty cigarette again!

Now my question is why are so many people scared to sub ohm?. I understand that if you short your atty or if someones is using low amp batteries the batteries could vent and turn into rockets. And obviously using hybrid top cap mods and subohm tanks is like playing Russian Roulette.

What i'm wondering is if somone is using a regulated box mod with short circuit protection that's rated to fire down to a .2 coil (like my istick 50w for example) what is there to be worried about? Is there something that i'm missing? Or do people just like taking 6 second draws for weak flavor and poor vapor production (IMHO)?

 

[tehdarkaura]

Different people are after different things, I agree with you -- I wasn't able to get off ciggs until I switched to RDA's (Sub tanks were not around back then) and I understand why people didn't want to build their own coils, stuff them with wick and all that. but there are lots of people that are totally happy vaping high pg juice out of old style cartos.
That's cool too -- its all about finding what works for you.
Welcome to ECF by the way

 

[Thrasher]

If you have 50+ watts or better yet 100+ watt mod there is no real reason to even build a sub ohm rig with 100 watts you can make a bicycle brake cable smoking hot why do you need to build something originally intended for use on a mechanical mod? Wth 50+ watts if it takes 6 seconds to heat up you need to recheck your skills lol

 

[Robert Cromwell]

First off I'd like to say Hello ECF!

A little bit of back story about me:

I'm 25 years old and started smoking when i was 15. I was smoking over a pack a day and usually 2 packs a day on weekends. I tried to switch to vaping numerous times over the past 2 years with no success at all.

About a month ago on my 25th birthday i was given a Joyetech ego one battery and a Subtank mini and it changed everything. Now a month later i have an istick 50w and few rda's and dont ever plan on smoking a stupid nasty cigarette again!

Now my question is why are so many people scared to sub ohm?. I understand that if you short your atty or if someones is using low amp batteries the batteries could vent and turn into rockets. And obviously using hybrid top cap mods and subohm tanks is like playing Russian Roulette.

What i'm wondering is if somone is using a regulated box mod with short circuit protection that's rated to fire down to a .2 coil (like my istick 50w for example) what is there to be worried about? Is there something that i'm missing? Or do people just like taking 6 second draws for weak flavor and poor vapor production (IMHO)?

Not much to be worried about using a regulated mod. They have lots of protections in them. Unlike a mech mod or especially a hybrid using a tank with a short 510 pin on it.

 

[daveyp]

"Sub-ohming" has a couple of downsides. For one, you tend to use a lot more juice. Battery life suffers a lot too. On a properly regulated device, there's nothing much to fear about it. But for some there's not much appeal - I have some subohm setups now, but I prefer my nautilus mini. The flavor is amazing - far better than any of my subohm tanks and my mods/batteries last longer. I don't regret investing in them, they work well for some of my juices, and it's fun to blow some clouds.

As for an RDA - they are not very convenient IMO and require a lot more maintenance. I couldn't imagine dripping 1-2mls while driving every day, nor do I want to carry a bottle of juice in my work bag, or worry about having my juice on me. The thought does not appeal to me, so I haven't tried it.

For me convenience is king. I fill up my Subtank Plus, throw it on my MVP 3.0, and I'm good for the entire day. When I get home it's back to my nautilus mini.

 

[GreenBear]

Not much to be worried about using a regulated mod. They have lots of protections in them. Unlike a mech mod or especially a hybrid using a tank with a short 510 pin on it.

Awesome thanks for clearing that up for me! As of now I don't plan on getting a mech mod and those hybrids scare the hell out of me lol. Thanks for the quick responses eveyone!

 

[dangkhoa02106]

All you need is a good material (just like copper), simple device and an highdrain imr battery and you good to go. We using a regulated box mod because a lot of stuff is build in it, the regulated box mod will regard your every puffs. I like my box mod just because two things:
1. I have VW to use with all kind of coil.
2. it will notify me when the battery is empty, lol.
But you see eventhough they have a electrical board, you will not know if someday the board is failure so accident can still happen.
So I will treat all my device with my best care, eventhough I am using a mech mod or a box mod

 

[GreenBear]

"Sub-ohming" has a couple of downsides. For one, you tend to use a lot more juice. Battery life suffers a lot too. On a properly regulated device, there's nothing much to fear about it. But for some there's not much appeal - I have some subohm setups now, but I prefer my nautilus mini. The flavor is amazing - far better than any of my subohm tanks and my mods/batteries last longer. I don't regret investing in them, they work well for some of my juices, and it's fun to blow some clouds.

As for an RDA - they are not very convenient IMO and require a lot more maintenance. I couldn't imagine dripping 1-2mls while driving every day, nor do I want to carry a bottle of juice in my work bag, or worry about having my juice on me. The thought does not appeal to me, so I haven't tried it.

For me convenience is king. I fill up my Subtank Plus, throw it on my MVP 3.0, and I'm good for the entire day. When I get home it's back to my nautilus mini.

Thanks good info! and yea i agree about rda's being a inconvience. I use a subtank mini at work and driving but when home i love dripping. I also enjoy the building and tinkering part of it a alot. Really just wanted to make sure i wasnt puting myself in any danger.

 

[GreenBear]

If you have 50+ watts or better yet 100+ watt mod there is no real reason to even build a sub ohm rig with 100 watts you can make a bicycle brake cable smoking hot why do you need to build something originally intended for use on a mechanical mod? Wth 50+ watts if it takes 6 seconds to heat up you need to recheck your skills lol

I'm not sure i understand what you mean? My .3 ohm coil heats up almost instantly at 50w and hits awesome. why is it intended for mech mods?

 

[zoiDman]

What i'm wondering is if somone is using a regulated box mod with short circuit protection that's rated to fire down to a .2 coil (like my istick 50w for example) what is there to be worried about? Is there something that i'm missing? Or do people just like taking 6 second draws for weak flavor and poor vapor production (IMHO)?

If you are using a Regulated Mod with Amp Load protection, then you don't have that much to Worry About. As long as the Mod does Everything that it should do, then the Mod will not let you Draw More Amps than the Mod or Battery can Handle.

Where the Problem can Occur is when someone is using a Mech Mod which has No Protection.

A Mech Mod is just One Big Circuit. and if the Resistance is Too Low, or the Atty Shorts, then All the Electrons want to Come Out of the Battery at the same time. And that is when you will find out If you have enough Vent Holes in you Mech Mod.

 

[zoiDman]

I'm not sure i understand what you mean? My .3 ohm coil heats up almost instantly at 50w and hits awesome. why is it intended for mech mods?

When you press the Button on a Mech Mod with a Freshly Charged battery and a .3 Ohms coil, you are going to ask the Battery to Provide 15 Amps. This is a Lot of Amps. More than Many Batteries can Handle.

At .2 Ohms, your Battery has to Pump Out about 21 Amps. This is up on the Bleeding Edge of what the Best Batteries can Handle.

At .1 Ohms, Mr. 18650 has to do 42 Amps. Which he Can't. So he Goes into Melt Down Mode.

Notice how Fast we went from 15 Amps to 42 Amps? And Many Ohm Meters Can't read Accurately on these Small Amounts.

 

[GreenBear]

Thanks again everyone for the good info and speedy responses!

 

[Thrasher]

I'm not sure i understand what you mean? My .3 ohm coil heats up almost instantly at 50w and hits awesome. why is it intended for mech mods?

First off box mods are kinda new there hasnt always been 30+w mods.

Mechanical mods put out more power the lower you go with resistance the only way to get big vaper was to drive a mechanical into high power with sub ohm coils. Then big box mods came along giving you 50 watts at any resistance. So if i can now get the same amount of power and vapor from a 1 ohm coil at 25 watts what reason is there to keep building a coil thats not needed?

What im saying is before- there was an actual need for subohm it had a real purpose. Now people build them just because they can, it doesn't really have to be used anymore. People starting now don't really know this they think thats the way its always been and what you "need" to do,, but thats not true anymore.

Ifmyou want to sub ohm on a box thats fine, go for it. But it serves no real purpose anymore.

 

[zoiDman]

First off box mods are kinda new there hasnt always been 30+w mods.

Mechanical mods put out more power the lower you go with resistance the only way to get big vaper was to drive a mechanical into high power with sub ohm coils. Then big box mods came along giving you 50 watts at any resistance. So if i can now get the same amount of power and vapor from a 1 ohm coil at 25 watts what reason is there to keep building a coil thats not needed?

What im saying is before- there was an actual need for subohm it had a real purpose. Now people build them just because they can, it doesn't really have to be used anymore. People starting now don't really know this they think thats the way its always been and what you "need" to do,, but thats not true anymore.

Ifmyou want to sub ohm on a box thats fine, go for it. But it serves no real purpose anymore.

This is kinda the Way I see it. To me, Very Low Sub-Ohm-ing has kinda gone the way of Stacked Batteries.

 

[GreenBear]

When you press the Button on a Mech Mod with a Freshly Charged battery and a .3 Ohms coil, you are going to ask the Battery to Provide 15 Amps. This is a Lot of Amps. More than Many Batteries can Handle.

At .2 Ohms, your Battery has to Pump Out about 21 Amps. This is up on the Bleeding Edge of what the Best Batteries can Handle.

At .1 Ohms, Mr. 18650 has to do 42 Amps. Which he Can't. So he Goes into Melt Down Mode.

Notice how Fast we went from 15 Amps to 42 Amps? And Many Ohm Meters Can't read Accurately on these Small Amounts.

Yea I understand that about mech mods. Also how are you figuring those Amp numbers without knowing the voltage said mod is putting out?

First off box mods are kinda new there hasnt always been 30+w mods.

Mechanical mods put out more power the lower you go with resistance the only way to get big vaper was to drive a mechanical into high power with sub ohm coils. Then big box mods came along giving you 50 watts at any resistance. So if i can now get the same amount of power and vapor from a 1 ohm coil at 25 watts what reason is there to keep building a coil thats not needed?

What im saying is before- there was an actual need for subohm it had a real purpose. Now people build them just because they can, it doesn't really have to be used anymore. People starting now don't really know this they think thats the way its always been and what you "need" to do,, but thats not true anymore.

Ifmyou want to sub ohm on a box thats fine, go for it. But it serves no real purpose anymore.

OK i see what your saying now. it just seems that when i use thinner kanthal and build something like a 1.5 ohm coil i dont get as much surface area of the wick covered so not as much vapor, and the flavor seems weaker. Than again i am still pretty new to all this. Ill play around with some higher ohm builds in the morning.

 

[zoiDman]

Not sure if you have seen this site...

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

But if you haven't, It's great to do "What If" scenarios. Just keep your eye on the Heat Flux.

 

[Thrasher]

You want to try something cool man check out ribbon kanthol. 3x the surface area of round 28 g ribbon will be almost the same as 3strands of 28 g round

Taste is subjective setups are too, and im guessing your using more of a cloud rda if true a lower power set up in a real flavor chasing atty may not put out the same cloud but the flavor will blow away a cloud chasing atty easy


Not an accurate example but say a mutation doesnt get good flavor until it starts hitting 50 or more. An origen will do it in half that


Sometimes the atty itself is just as responsible for the quality of the production as the build inside. Not all attys work great with all builds

 

[stevegmu]

I don't think the possible dangers of sub ohm vaping would be the first of my concerns with an iStick..

 

[zoiDman]

Yea I understand that about mech mods. Also how are you figuring those Amp numbers without knowing the voltage said mod is putting out?

...

With a Mech Mod, it only Output what the Battery has. And a Battery fresh off the charger is about 4.2v. So that is what people use to Calculate Max Amp Draw on a Mech Mod.

 

[GreenBear]

Not sure if you have seen this site...

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

But if you haven't, It's great to do "What If" scenarios. Just keep your eye on the Heat Flux.

That is a cool resource thanks!