Ohm's changing??

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CheeseyMofoDude

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Jul 12, 2015
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Hi all,

Still early on in my vapeing days so forgive any newbishness please!

I've recently gone from a Vision Spinner 2 to an eleaf 30watt using a Kanger aero tank v2. the Eleaf gives me an ohm reading, never really cared much about ohms as I don't build my own coils or get too technical, my issue is the reading shows the ohms jumping about during use and I don't know if this is something to be concerned about but I do know its flipping annoying not getting consistent.
I currently using a 1.5ohm official (as far as I know, it was purchased from a reputable shop so i assume it is) kangertech dual coil, set to 4.8 volts max. After about a day I notice I'm getting slight burnt hits or very weak hits at random upon further inspection I find the ohms to be way out, flickering from 1.7ohms to 4.3 highest so far.
I have no idea what's causing this, and haven't been able to find a confident answer on line so far. Anyone have any ideas?
 

suprtrkr

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Hhhmmm... Metals change their resistance to conductance with temperature. Could be jumping around from cold coil to hot coil. Next time the tank is empty, take it apart, clean it, and check if the coil might be a bit loose. Or maybe the tank on the mod. Get a q-tip and clean the 510 threads in the mod and on the tank (alcohol works well for this). I further suggest you switch to variable wattage mode and use that. (You say eLeaf 30W, I assume an iStick 30.) Start low on the watts, like 10 or so, and run it up one watt at a time to find the balance of best flavor and vapor. The nice thing about VW mode is it compensates for changes in resistance, giving you a very consistent vape from pull to pull and tank to tank. You'll probably also find your various juice flavors like different wattages best. If all of that doesn't fix it, I'll guess you have a bad coil-- manufacturing defects happen-- or a bad mod. That iStick 30 has a pretty good rep, though, unlike it's big brother.
 

CheeseyMofoDude

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Jul 12, 2015
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Welcome to the forum. That's an awfully big gap for a coil of 1.5 ohms. If it's fluxuating that much I would say you got a bad coil. Just a guess as I haven't had this issue before.
I assumed this and have changed coils a couple of times. Tried a 1.5 twice and 1.7 but its the same. I want to think that ohms reader on the e leaf is playing up but its pretty new and I haven't heard of other e leafers having the same issue.
 

CheeseyMofoDude

Full Member
Jul 12, 2015
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Hhhmmm... Metals change their resistance to conductance with temperature. Could be jumping around from cold coil to hot coil. Next time the tank is empty, take it apart, clean it, and check if the coil might be a bit loose. Or maybe the tank on the mod. Get a q-tip and clean the 510 threads in the mod and on the tank (alcohol works well for this). I further suggest you switch to variable wattage mode and use that. (You say eLeaf 30W, I assume an iStick 30.) Start low on the watts, like 10 or so, and run it up one watt at a time to find the balance of best flavor and vapor. The nice thing about VW mode is it compensates for changes in resistance, giving you a very consistent vape from pull to pull and tank to tank. You'll probably also find your various juice flavors like different wattages best. If all of that doesn't fix it, I'll guess you have a bad coil-- manufacturing defects happen-- or a bad mod. That iStick 30 has a pretty good rep, though, unlike it's big brother.
I'll give it a clean and let you know...
 

suprtrkr

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Jun 22, 2014
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I'll give it a clean and let you know...
Yes, please; hit us with a post. The wattage range you quote seems too wide to me, as others have said. For the nonce, we'll hope it's just a bad connection and can be easily fixed with a bit of cleaning.
 
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CheeseyMofoDude

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Jul 12, 2015
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Iv usually have to wrestle with the to get em off i cant imagine that's it. I was told by the fellas at the local shop I had it in too tight wen i asked why my t3d wasn't playing ball, could it be the same for areotank tank?

I'm using my t3d with an adaptor while the areotank soaks, 1.5 ohm coil showing as 1.6 on the istick. Pretty safe to say it's not the istick atleast.
 

CheeseyMofoDude

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Jul 12, 2015
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If you adapter is both ego & 510 threaded, try using it with your Aerotank as well to see if you still have a problem with the Aerotank.
Yea it does. I notice there is still dark grey muck in the threading, going to find a toothbrush to clean it with. Using a bit of alcohol cleared crap loads of it off already.

If it is due to this I apologise for any frustration I've caused. Cleaning is such a basic thing yet I overlooked it lol
 

suprtrkr

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Yea it does. I notice there is still dark grey muck in the threading, going to find a toothbrush to clean it with. Using a bit of alcohol cleared crap loads of it off already.

If it is due to this I apologise for any frustration I've caused. Cleaning is such a basic thing yet I overlooked it lol
Not a problem, or at least not from me. Helping people see the obvious is a big chunk of what I do here :) Let us hope that was the actual problem. It's super easy to fix.
 

edyle

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Hi all,

Still early on in my vapeing days so forgive any newbishness please!

I've recently gone from a Vision Spinner 2 to an Eleaf 30watt using a Kanger aero tank v2. the Eleaf gives me an ohm reading, never really cared much about ohms as I don't build my own coils or get too technical, my issue is the reading shows the ohms jumping about during use and I don't know if this is something to be concerned about but I do know its flipping annoying not getting consistent.
I currently using a 1.5ohm official (as far as I know, it was purchased from a reputable shop so i assume it is) kangertech dual coil, set to 4.8 volts max. After about a day I notice I'm getting slight burnt hits or very weak hits at random upon further inspection I find the ohms to be way out, flickering from 1.7ohms to 4.3 highest so far.
I have no idea what's causing this, and haven't been able to find a confident answer on line so far. Anyone have any ideas?

1.5 to 1.7 isn't a big deal but 4.3 is off the charts.
a 1.5 ohm dual coil consists of two 3 ohm coils in parallel; if one of them burns out you would be left with a 3 ohm single coil.
Since you are getting 4.3 ohms sometimes, it's not that issue.

Instead, most likely it's an issue with the 510 connection contact.
 

CheeseyMofoDude

Full Member
Jul 12, 2015
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This is the dual coil kanger head, right? I had terrible luck with those when I had a mini aerotank. Mostly I had shorting issues, but I also had some issues with the connection they would make...do you have a device other than the eleaf to try it on?
I dont have anything with a ohms reading. But my old tank it's working fine with the istick. I haven't had the istick more than a month I really hope it's not that! Iv had the aero tank for quite a while now and never cleaned it more thab a wipe down with tissue, im hoping it's this causing it otherwise I wouldnt have a clue.
 

CheeseyMofoDude

Full Member
Jul 12, 2015
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2
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Throughly cleaned the thing, got some alcohol and a toothbrush n went to town on the threading, lots of muck came away but it hasn't solved the problem, ohms still jittering. Given that the t3d works fine it must be the connection on the areotank.... Silver lining though, I can fully justify upgrading to the kanger sub tank!

I noticed that once the atomizer/head/coil couldn't be screwed in any further it would still had a very slight bit of give if i wobbled it. I dont know when this started bit i know it's been like that for some time. I suppose it must be this?
 
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