Protank 2 Microcoil Vapor Issues

[waterjuice]

I am having a problem with vapor production when microcoiling my protank 2.
Wraps are very tight evenly, reads 1.8ohms, not touching metal.
Using cotton wick, and flavor( tried without and still no production).
Also tried putting silicone on and off

I have tried multiple times and do not know what the problem is?

Has anyone had this problem before?

I need a solution to start vaping away!

 

[waterjuice]

used a 5/64 drill bit.
torched also.

 

[Kirkwood]

I generally use 28 ga, 8 wraps for a 1.6 ohm coil, no flavor wick. You burning up the cotton?

 

[waterjuice]

I use 28 with 12 wraps.

Cotton is perfect when coming out i get nice flavor but not clouds of vapor like Rip Trippers Youtube Tutorial

 

[Blkwdw86]

What voltage? Check your battery's output voltage with a multimeter to verify?

How's your wick through the coil? Too much/too tight and the juice can't get to the coil efficiently; too loose and it'll flood. It should be loose enough not to feel resistance when you try to pull it out of the coil, but not so loose it'll fall out.

Have two wicks? One for the coil, the other to carry juice in from the tank?

What kind of glow do you get when you dry burn? Just install the head and base on your battery, remove the top post, and inspect that you're getting glow.

 

[waterjuice]

running 11.5 watts.
wicking seems to be perfect, made sure it wasnt too tight or loose.
the glow burns from inner to outer bright and evenly
and i would install the atomizer head then lock it into my zmax

I mean flavor is good vapor production is OKAY, but its not producing the vapor i've seen on the video

 

[IMFire3605]

Vapor production also goes hand in hand with air flow, and there is not much you can do to get more air flow without an airflow controller or modifying you Zmax's air flow channels, or the base of the protank and center pin of the head on a Protank2. Another thing, why oh why do people use 28ga or larger wire in a Kanger style head when using a regulated device, that is a another factor of your vapor production, 28ga at that many wraps takes to dang long to heat up, thus why you are having to crank it up to 11.5watts. Step the wire thickness down to 30ga maximum, plus you also have to remember, look at what device Rip Trippers usually has his atomizing devices attached to, a Phazed DNA20, also have to remember he has most his atomizer attachements modified for maximum output for high power output and doing lung hits most times during his demonstrations. Wanting to fog up a room with a Protank design, find a Protank1 someone doesn't want anymore, its airflow is far better than the Protank2 which is more restricted, and it can be done because I have done it, but only with a Protank1 using a 0.7ohm nano-coil head with a cotton wick on a SmokTech Natural and SmokTech Magneto, both mechanicals, using MNKE 18650s with a resetable fuse on the battery, but still I am not getting anywhere near the clouds Rip Trippers is doing.

A properly built 30ga micro or nano coil in a protank, should by my experience produce triple the flavor of a stock head, twice the throat hit, and twice the vapor of a stock head in an Evod, T3, UniTank, or Protank2, Davide, or other such device using a Kanger style BCC head, Protank1 and possibly a Tatroe or Davide tank might reach the Protank1 with four times the flavor, twice the throat hit, and triple the vapor, but as I said above to achieve that you are needing a sub-ohm micro or nano coil on a Mechanical, going that route, cloud chasing, better start doing your research into RDAs, battery chemistry and safety, ohms law, and sub-ohm safety, you'll not get massive vapor out of a Glassomizer/Clearomizer class bottom tank system, they are not really designed to be fog machines.

 

[waterjuice]

I have 32gauge and ill try it out.
Reading the youtube comments people seem to have no problem with it

 

[Hill]

You can drill out the air holes on the base of the PT2 to get more air. I did works great draw is just like the original PT.

Try using 30g if you have it OP i used 32 and you can't get enough wraps for a proper micro-coil. It works just not as well YMMV of course.

 

[IMFire3605]

Yes, 32ga will heat up a lot quicker, and I use it all the time in my Low to Standard restistance micro-coil rebuilds (1.5-2.5ohms), and best when used on a regulated device, as I said when I am down further, 0.7 to 1.5ohms, I use 30ga as it is more durable than 32ga at that range, and 28ga is better for sub-ohm building in an RDA/RBA/RTA.

 

[waterjuice]

Yeah 32 did not work out well.
Have you guys actually tried microcoiling a protank2?

 

[waterjuice]

I do understand the resistance between wires but if other people can be successful using 28 why cant i?

I mean everything seems to be good except the vapor production.
The draw is not too tight.

 

[IMFire3605]

Nothing so much is wrong with 28ga persay, just the limited space you have inside the cup of the head is very small, and as stated before it takes a bit for it to reach top temperature, most regulated devices, auto-power cut off is about 10 seconds so you want top temp as fast as possible. I do recoil and rewick Kanger style heads on several types of tanks, Protank 1, Protank 2, T3, T3S, Evod, Hypertank (G50 Tank Clone). I guess without knowing what you are really expecting out of your tank's performance, all I can do is give pointers as to what has worked for me. If a standard micro-coil is not doing what you expect, mayber try this here with a vertical micro-coil configuration I am using in my Hypertank at present, has to be built according to or close to the specs listed though http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html.

Another configuration you could try is a nano-coil with 30 or 28ga wire at the lowest ohm your Zmax can handle, probably around 1.3 to 1.5 ohms, which currently my Protank1 I am using a 1.15ohm nano-coil with 30ga on a mech mod that can produce a heck of a cloud of vapor, and a 2.0 nano-coil with 32ga on several T3S tanks on my MVP, SVD, and iTaste VV V3 that give stupendous vapor output. However, I am not trying to chase clouds only, I am looking for nic delivery, taste, a build that doesn't leak, gurgle, or flood, throat hit second to last, and vapor dead last. Each build I have done recently has its strengths and weaknesses, but compared to my RDAs on a mech mod, no clearomizer or glassomizer can chuck clouds like a modified Igo-L, Smoktech Octopus, even a higher end Trident RDA can due to several factors, as I said one of the big ones being air-flow, you are kind of limited in what you can modify in airflow on a Kanger style BCC tank. Though my protank1 current nano-coil build is up in competition, only modification on it is in the coil and wick in a horizontal configuration, and again it is very low ohm on a mech, and as it is chain vaped and warms up, performance increases and increases, but still can't do the same clouds an RDA on a mech can do.

Some things to look at if you PT2 is just giving a puff and fart of a vapor cloud, check your coil config, are the legs pulled tight and snug, are the wraps tight and together, how much friction resistance in your cotton wick, just enough to hold onto the inside of the coil loosely or did you pull it in tight, if the later, make it more loose, you are choking your juice flow to much, maybe even try some loose wick on top of the coil. Without seeing what your coils are doing, and how they are performing in person, I am throwing guesses. Still not happy with everything you are doing and not getting the output you are expecting, look at a mech and RDA then.

 

[TastyKakes]

Yeah 32 did not work out well.
Have you guys actually tried microcoiling a protank2?

I have microcoiled all my protanks, minis, and evods using 30awg kanthal and p&c cotton yarn - works like a dream. 9 wrap meters out to 2 ohms, thread the wick, drop or two of juice to prime said wick, then fill her up, let her sit for 5-10 minutes, and BLAST OFF.

 

[Taylor7617]

I have microcoiled all my protanks, minis, and evods using 30awg kanthal and p&c cotton yarn - works like a dream. 9 wrap meters out to 2 ohms, thread the wick, drop or two of juice to prime said wick, then fill her up, let her sit for 5-10 minutes, and BLAST OFF.

What is your ID of the coil? Using a 5/64 drill bit or something of similar diameter?
I'm using a 1/16" bit so it's slightly smaller....get 2 ohm at 10 wraps. Just curious.

 

[Prolikethis]

Waterjuice, i know the juice you use can make a huge diff on the clouds of vape you blow. Max VG for max clouds is what I'm finding out. Also the way you hit/drag will make a diff too. Drag very slow after a few puffs to make sure your coil is nice and warmed up. Sounds like your doing everything else like a pro. I rewarap pt2's with cotton wicks. 30 gage, 1-1.5 ohms at 8-10 watts, 100% VG in the pt2, gets me huge clouds the ones it sounds like your looking for.

 

[TastyKakes]

What is your ID of the coil? Using a 5/64 drill bit or something of similar diameter?
I'm using a 1/16" bit so it's slightly smaller....get 2 ohm at 10 wraps. Just curious.

I use 1/16 as well... must've forgotten to undo that first wrap of the coil. I usually do a 10 wrap, that undo the first go around because its never as tight or uniform as the rest.
You're correct though, 9 wrap usually gives me around 1.8.

 

[waterjuice]

I usually use 40/60 or 50/50 and I have tried 100%vg. And I do warm up my coils before I hit it
Tried slow drags regular drags
Nothing seems to get the results I want and I seem to be correct on everything
I changed wick size big small medium, and made SURE all coils touched very evenly

 

[waterjuice]

I use 1/16 as well... must've forgotten to undo that first wrap of the coil. I usually do a 10 wrap, that undo the first go around because its never as tight or uniform as the rest.
You're correct though, 9 wrap usually gives me around 1.8.

I use 28GA Kanthal A1 btw. 12 wraps 1.8 ohms. Does that sound correct? with a 5/64 drill bit

 

[dice57]

did you saturate your wick and see if the build was producing vapor before total assembly? Is the coil firing up? To thick of cotton will cause wicking issues, choking of the juice, to thin and can't wick enough.