RDA WICKING PROBLEM?

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Sgt.Rock

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Sounds a bit like your wick is too tight in the coil and being choked so---it burns..

Wicking is part art and part science. Cotton likes to be just tight enough that you can feel the friction when sliding it side to side...Rayon likes it far tighter.

Don't give up...experiment!

With a little determination you can figure out what works best for you in an afternoon of testing as long as you don't mind sitting down and working on it.
 

thomas l

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Sounds a bit like your wick is too tight in the coil and being choked so---it burns..

Wicking is part art and part science. Cotton likes to be just tight enough that you can feel the friction when sliding it side to side...Rayon likes it far tighter.

Don't give up...experiment!

With a little determination you can figure out what works best for you in an afternoon of testing as long as you don't mind sitting down and working on it.
i total agree just go tto play with it
 

Susan~S

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Hello and welcome to the forum @h0peful. Glad to have you here!:)

Are you using Japanese cotton pads? If so, make sure you are cutting them with the grain. If you cut against the grain you end up with very tiny pieces of cotton that fall apart once the outer layers of the pad don't hold the wick together.
 

kaahn

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Wicking can be finicky especially when wicking different devices as each device requires its own way to wick it properly. Practice makes perfect they always say. I use the cotton pads as well and what I do, and this is just what I do, is there is a thin layer sandwiching the cotton pad together. I peel this outer layer off each side leaving only the meaty part from the cotton. Seems to help with the cottons ability to wick the juice. You could also try this to see if it helps. I agree that it sounds like your wick is too tight in the coil. Try using a little less cotton. I hope this helps! Good luck.
 
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h0peful

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Thanks for all the help guys! :thumb:

I'll go do some trial and error with the cotton and wicking.

Also, is chain vaping a possible reason for this problem? Sometimes I practice tricking and my setup gets really hot after I keep hitting it without letting it rest; (but not that hot until you can't even hold it), Should I let it cool off for a bit or is it okay to continue?

I'm using a mutation x v4 clone on a Manhattan mod clone with sony vtc5 18650
 

h0peful

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usually that is a sign of hi wattage going on.. ( low ohm coils) what is your coils rated at? and what watts are you doing?

I'm using 24g kanthal dual coil on a mutation x v4 clone.
6 wraps each around a 3mm screwdriver. Rated at about 0.2ohms
I'm using a Manhattan clone with Sony vtc5 batteries
 
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Darth Omerta

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I'm using 24g kanthal dual coil on a mutation x v4 clone.
6 wraps each around a 3mm screwdriver. Rated at about 0.2ohms
I'm using a Manhattan clone with Sony vtc5 batteries

Thats a pretty low build for a mech mod and a vtc5. The vtc5 really works best as a 20A battery and you're pulling 21A with that build. I recommend checking out @Mooch bench tests in his blog for the actual CDR of the most popular batteries.

That said, your wicking problem is likely coming from that. Your coils are running at 88W(insert back to the future reference here) and vaporizing the liquid quite fast. If you like long draws then you might benefit more from higher resistance.
 

suprtrkr

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+1 to @Darth Omerta. That build is too low for that rig and battery, and you're burning the wicks in two. Crank it up to at least .4-- .5 would be better-- and the problem should go away. Using a little less cotton might help too. And try some rayon wicks.
 
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h0peful

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Thats a pretty low build for a mech mod and a vtc5. The vtc5 really works best as a 20A battery and you're pulling 21A with that build. I recommend checking out @Mooch bench tests in his blog for the actual CDR of the most popular batteries.

That said, your wicking problem is likely coming from that. Your coils are running at 88W(insert back to the future reference here) and vaporizing the liquid quite fast. If you like long draws then you might benefit more from higher resistance.

+1 to @Darth Omerta. That build is too low for that rig and battery, and you're burning the coils in two. Crank it up to at least .4-- .5 would be better-- and the problem should go away. Using a little less cotton might help too. And try some rayon wicks.

Thanks guys for the great advice :)

With that being said, could u guys recommend how I should re-coil my wires? I only have 24g currently, if my calculations are correct, to get it up to .4 or .5 ohms, I would have to wrap about 8-9 wraps each coil? Or should I just get 26g wire and wrap 5-6 wraps?
Which would be better for vapor production? Or more specifically what would be better for tricking?
 
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edyle

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Thanks guys for the great advice :)

With that being said, could u guys recommend how I should re-coil my wires? I only have 24g currently, if my calculations are correct, to get it up to .4 or .5 ohms, I would have to wrap about 8-9 wraps each coil? Or should I just get 26g wire and wrap 5-6 wraps?
Which would be better for vapor production? Or more specifically what would be better for tricking?

use the steam engine coil calculator.

my "universal tools" coiler comes with a 3.5mm diameter thing for coiling and that's what I use. i'm vaping on a 28 gauge 2.5 ohm 10 wrap at less than 15 watts.
 
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suprtrkr

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Thanks guys for the great advice :)

With that being said, could u guys recommend how I should re-coil my wires? I only have 24g currently, if my calculations are correct, to get it up to .4 or .5 ohms, I would have to wrap about 8-9 wraps each coil? Or should I just get 26g wire and wrap 5-6 wraps?
Which would be better for vapor production? Or more specifically what would be better for tricking?
Try the Steam Engine calculator. It's really helpful. In general, for max vapor production, more wire surface area is where you want to be. Clapton wires, or twists, or zipper coils might serve you better. You'll probably find it better to get some 28ga wire. 28 and 32 are the sizes I stock. A 32 twist, or a 28/32 Clapton, might help you with vapor as well. If you learn how to use the Steam Engine, off to the right you'll see a "heat flux" indicator. This tells you how much power you're putting on each square millimeter of your coil wire's surface area. It's calibrated in mW/mm^2, milliwatts per square millimeter. For the best flavor and no burned taste, you want to be in the "green" area of the icon, between 100 and 200 or so mW/mm^2. I am not sure where to go for max vapor, I don't build that way. But I will guarantee you, once you try a few coils built to vary this statistic, you'll figure out which direction to head. Then, since you're using a mech mod, you can adjust your ohm build (within the narrow limits of wattage a mech can obtain) to maximize whatever portion of the vape regime you want, once you figure out where it lies, while still staying well inside the safety parameters. A mech is a different critter. It's really more art than science. You have to build and build and build again until you get it as good as it can be. A regulated mod takes a lot of this guesswork out, or at least shortens the process, because you can adjust wattage without worrying too much about the coil Ohms. This is not a possibility on a mech, so you're stuck doing it the old, hard way. Ask me, that's part of the fun :)

But the most important thing, what caught both mine and @Darth Omerta 's eye, is that build is very high amps for that VTC5 battery. The VTC5, while an excellent battery from a quality manufacturer, is only a 20 amp battery. At full charge of 4.2 volts, your .22 build draws 19 amps. That's cutting your safety margin thin. *Very* thin, you ask me. I like a 50% safety margin, that is don't ask a 20 amp battery for more than 10 amps. For a 10 amp load, the bottom resistance is .42 ohms. But, as I'm sure you know, it isn't all that easy to build to the precise hundredth of an ohm, and your ohmmeter probably isn't that accurate anyway. Shoot for .5 or so-- for safety's sake-- and if you get one that comes in at .48, why you know you're still in the safe zone so you don't have to trash it and start over. Safety first, Bro. Cloud comes later :)
 
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