Rebuildable attys vs regular attys vs ?

[VaporWebHQ]

I've been happily vaping for about 5 years now but have a tendency to just stick with the same old thing forever when it comes to ecigs. At the beginning of my e-cig journey I was always experimenting with new things but for the past 2 or so years I've just been complacent with what I have.

I have a Vamo V-2 and I use i06 attys from ikenvape. Anyone that knows these kind of atys know they are great BUT they are tiny and the wick sticks up above the rim and I would always leak juice down the side of my e-cig trying to get as much juice on them as I could.

So I ended up getting a drip shield about 2 years ago and its great.. Thing is its pretty tall and since I stick my e-cig in my pocket all the time the threads on it recently completely wore off.

The drip shields threads are just gone.

So I've been looking into either getting another one or switching attys to something else. Personally I am starting to think that maybe the i06 just isn't big enough for in in the fact that I like big juicy hits and thats why I had to get the drip shield because I have to really load the juice up to get those hits from the i06. Its a Great atty but I think I might need something "more"

Soooo... I've been seeing these rebuildable atys which is completely new to me. Like I said I've been complacent in what I have and even have been using the same e-liquid flavor from t the same company ikenvape for 3 years now lol.

Would you recommend a rebuildable aty?

Would it be cheaper to use a rebuildable one than buying new attys all the time? Are the hits better?

Now I understand some of how good the hits are is in how you make the coils and how you put the wicking in but I assume the actual hardware effects that also.

I Have a multimeter and basic understanding of ohms law.

Or is there something else out there I should try? I just want to be able to get Nice big really juicy hits. I don't like dry hits. I was thinking about the Vulcan rebuildable aty but thats because its the only one I read about so far lol..

I'm basically looking for suggestions here as I'm behind the times in the e-cig world by quite a bit being in my little bubble for so long haha.

Thanks.

Edit: Looking again i tihnk my Vamo's threads might be worn off also. So I might have to buy another e-cig also. Is the Vamo still a good choice?

 

[Dissonance]

Yes, yes, and yes. Rebuildables have a little bit of a startup cost (RBA's are more expensive than other tanks in general, plus you need your kanthal (I'd go with 30 gauge to start), an ohm reader, some drill bits, organic cotton, tweezers, fingernail clippers, screwdrivers, pliers, a drill if you wanna play with twisted wire... I think that's about it ) but they are more than worth it. The quality of the vape blows any factory bought coil out of the water, and it's not that hard to learn. To rebuild and re-wick an RBA using kanthal and cotton, it'll cost you less than 10 cents.

What I would recommend is going out and buying a cheap dripper and all the supplies... Something like an IGO-L, IGO-W, etc. For the Vamo, I would recommend a single coil dripper (IGO-L) since imo dual coils work better with lower ohms or higher watts than the Vamo can handle. Even if you don't want to use a dripper all the time, having one around is great plus they're the easiest device to learn how to rebuild on. After that, your options are wide open. For starter tanks on the Vamo, I'd recommend checking out the Kayfun or Taifun. The Fogger V4 is a good tank as well, but it's dual coil so yeah... YMMV since I'm an ex-hookah smoker and the vapor production is important to me, the flavor is outstanding (in the fogger built at 1.2Ω+) but the clouds just aren't there. Fogger V4 is also easiest (imo) of the 3 to set up and has the best AFC as well as largest tank size.

All your call tho, like I said go pick up a dripper and try it out... Rebuilding is definitely the way to go, it just allows you so much more customization with your vape.

Oh, and as far as a new mod... Since you're thinking of rebuilding, you have a couple of options.

First would be to pick up another "low-power" VV/VW mod, such as the Vamo V5 or the ProVari. This setup will work, many people swear by the ProVari, but imo there are better choices out there when it comes to picking up a mod for an RBA.
Second would be to go the mechanical route... This will give you a little more hands-on experience with your coils IMO, since you build each coil specific for the power you want to vape at. This is the most dangerous route, since batteries can be a problem if not handled correctly.
Third (and what I would recommend) would be to pick up a 30 watt+ box mod. The IPv2 is a 50 watt mod around $100, or you could pick up a DNA30 clone for like $60. This will give you the largest range of power, so you can handle dual or even quad coils on a VV/VW device. Also, this mod will pretty much last you through anything, since you can sub ohm on them if that turns out to be your thing or have accurate control of any power setting within the range.

 

[Susan~S]

Baditude (our resident battery/safety expert) put this blog post together for anyone interested in getting into Mechanical Mods & RDA's with links on where you can purchase items: Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup

 

[tj99959]

Oh how I loved my old atomizer of choice, but it got to the point that no one stocked them anymore. So I feel your pain.

But, when I started looking for an alternative, I wasn't looking for a better vape. I was just looking for a better way to get the same vape.
After a bunch of fails to get the same experience from the new RDAs that were coming out almost on a daily basis, I found this little guy that I could set up to vape just like my my old atty of choice. A7 Stainless Steel Rebuildable Atomizer AND, I could set it up to do it on any type of PV that I chose to use.

On my almost 4 year old Mako

'Course I've never been one to get carried away when I find what I like

 

[VaporWebHQ]

Thank you for the replies , I just checked the threads on my Vamo v-2 and it seems even though they are a little wore they are still mostly intact. So I don't "need" a new vamo yet but I do for sure need some kind of new atty as just using the i06 alone without the drip shield is not ideal for me.

It seems though I have ALOT of catching up to do in the world of vaping. Everything was so simple when I bought my Vamo lol..

I need to wrap my head around this..

So you recommend a smaller single coil dripper at first? So a RBA without a "tank" and that only uses 1 coil.

Also I checked out the box mods you listed and I see that they go from like 7w all the way to like 30w holy crap..... Also i see they are for like 0.3 to like 3 ish ohms. They video I seen that got me interested in this the guy was building his coils at 3.5ohms.

I guess I'm just confused as to the relationship to how many ohms I build my coils to and how many watts I would need to use. I understand that ohms in the resistance but im trying to wrap my head around the idea of RBA's.

I'm wondering if I should just get something like the single coil dripper rba and pop it on my Vamo v-2 or just go all out and be done with it and buy a new mod and a good tank/rba.. My Vamo has really seen better days its really beat up and im not sure how much longer it will last.

So you say a vamo can't really handle something with duel coils like the vulcan huh? hmm The box mod does look interesting but it also confuses me like I said above.

I vape at a high watt on my Vamo V-2 using my 3.5ohm i06 attys I vape at like 12w . I still need to do more research on how using a lower ohm effects things with relation to the wattage. Like I said I understand ohms is resistance but not sure about how it all fits.

 

[Str8vision]

I've been down both sides of the atomizer aisle and can say that rebuildables are vastly cheaper to operate and provide FAR better flavor/vapor. When using a rebuildable, $15 worth of Kanthal and cotton will supply most people's needs for many years. I only vape NETs which are notorious wick/coil killers, and must re-wick/dry-burn once or twice a day and re-coil at least once a week. Even at that rate of rebuilding I spend less than $7 a year in materials and only use the best. Even if cost/economy isn't a consideration, you haven't REALLY tasted a juice until you've tried it in a RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer). Nothing even comes close to a good RDA where flavor is concerned. Of all the attys I have tried, my favorites are the Kayfun lite+ (Russian 91%), for a tank type and the Magma for dripping. I only buy Stainless Steel atomizers and mods because those made with copper, aluminum, wood and or brass will strip/wallow out too quickly. Copper, silver or brass battery contacts are just fine but all major threaded parts should be S.S. rather than a soft malleable material.

 

[VaporWebHQ]

Baditude (our resident battery/safety expert) put this blog post together for anyone interested in getting into Mechanical Mods & RDA's with links on where you can purchase items: Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup

Great info in that I'm reading it now

Oh how I loved my old atomizer of choice, but it got to the point that no one stocked them anymore. So I feel your pain.

But, when I started looking for an alternative, I wasn't looking for a better vape. I was just looking for a better way to get the same vape.
After a bunch of fails to get the same experience from the new RDAs that were coming out almost on a daily basis, I found this little guy that I could set up to vape just like my my old atty of choice.

I will def keep that one in mind thank you

 

[VaporWebHQ]

I've been down both sides of the atomizer aisle and can say that rebuildables are vastly cheaper to operate and provide FAR better flavor/vapor. When using a rebuildable, $15 worth of Kanthal and cotton will supply most people's needs for many years. I only vape NETs which are notorious wick/coil killers, and must re-wick/dry-burn once or twice a day and re-coil at least once a week. Even at that rate of rebuilding I spend less than $7 a year in materials and only use the best. Even if cost/economy isn't a consideration, you haven't REALLY tasted a juice until you've tried it in a RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer). Nothing even comes close to a good RDA where flavor is concerned. Of all the attys I have tried, my favorites are the Kayfun lite+ (Russian 91%), for a tank type and the Magma for dripping. I only buy Stainless Steel atomizers and mods because those made with copper, aluminum, wood and or brass will strip/wallow out too quickly. Copper, silver or brass battery contacts are just fine but all major threaded parts should be S.S. rather than a soft malleable material.

Thank you I agree about threads not being made of a softer material. Stripped threads is why I got started on this RDA adventure. I'm starting to notice there is a lot involved tho and a lot more RDA's than i thought. I guess I will be doing a lot of research.

 

[VaporWebHQ]

Ok what do you think of me getting the IGO-L from here: $6.70 IGO-L Rebuildable Stainless Steel Dripping Atomizer - double heating wires / 1.6ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
And using it on my current Vamo to try things out for a while. I didn't realize it was so cheap.

Then if I like it I will eventually get a boxmod and a 2 coil tank.

Should I get 28 gauge kanthal like this? http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-Wire-32mm-Resistance/dp/B00CQO83L6
Or 30 Gauge like this? Amazon.com: Kanthal 30 Gauge AWG A1 Wire 100ft Roll .254mm , 8.36 Ohms/ft Resistance: Everything Else
What would be the difference? wouldn't you be able to get the same ohms from either by the number of coils or no?
Also if not from amazon where do you recommend I get my Kanthal from?

And what about the wicking? Should I get organic cotton like this: Amazon.com : Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls -- 100 Cotton Balls : Beauty
or I see people using what looks like an actual wick matieral of some sort..Edit: I see its called Silica wick.. So cotton or silica wick?

What would give me the juiciest hit with the least chance of dry hits? I use 50/50 juice

Thanks!

 

[Str8vision]

Thank you I agree about threads not being made of a softer material. Stripped threads is why I got started on this RDA adventure. I'm starting to notice there is a lot involved tho and a lot more RDA's than i thought. I guess I will be doing a lot of research.

Rebuildable atomizers come in many shapes and sizes. Things I would ook for;

* An exposed unobstructed build deck. I prefer raised posts with "shoot and screw" coil wire capture over the traditional "bind it under the screw head" types. MUCH easier to build, reduces the learning curve.

* A small atomizing chamber for best flavor.

* Adjustable air intake that places the coil directly in-line between the air-hole and chimney outlet. For multi-coil attys the air adjustment should allow for single coil operation by shutting off airflow where it isn't needed.

Also worth noting, the shorter the chimney and drip tip the warmer the vapor, the longer the chimney and drip tip the cooler. The resistance of the coil and voltage applied also plays into vapor temps but that equation applies to any atomizer and doesn't help select one. Good luck and enjoy your purchase.

 

[Wow1420]

I can't imagine being satisfied with dripping on a standard non-rebuildable atomizer (other than maybe occasional taste testing) because of the small capacity.

Getting an RDA with a large juice well makes a big huge difference for me. I've tried the Magma and Origen clones, they can hold 20 drops with no leaking, maybe more if you're careful about not tilting it too much. I thought I'd never carry around anything bigger than an ego, but these devices have changed my mind. I take either the origen or the magma on an 18500 mechanical now for the drive to and from work. 20 drops gets me just about all the way to work without re-dripping. Plenty of stoplights along the way for a refill opportunity.

Rebuilding gives you lots of room to experiment with different resistance and is dirt cheap to maintain after the initial investment. I run a conservative (relatively speaking) 1.4 ohm single coil build on a mech and I'm delighted with the performance.

Today I had to drive a lot further than normal and took a Kayfun (4ml rebuildable tank) on an MVP. There's a lot to be said for this type of setup as well.

 

[DualChamber]

I've been vaping for over 5 years and have tried several devices and different atomizers. I recently tried my hand at rebuildables - iGo, Phoenix clone and one other. While I can make a coil and wick it, I am not impressed. I put them all in my vaping cabinet for another day. Even though rebuilding your atomizers is very cost effective, I just want a decent, reliable vaping system with a minimum of fiddling, and reduced problems with leaking. So, if you are a person of convenience, read on.

My favorite setup over the past couple of years was a basic carto tank. I slot my own Boge SR carts and use an inexpensive tank. Flavor and vapor production are just fine. This has served me quite will with minimal fiddling and consistent performance.

I just received two new Kanger BDC tanks this week - Aerotank v2 and Aerotank Mini. Initial impressions are very, very good. Replaceable coils and adequately sized tanks. The Kangers produce decent flavor and vapor. This has currently replaced all but one carto tank. I think these will serve me well for a couple more years.

 

[Str8vision]

Ok what do you think of me getting the IGO-L from here: $6.70 IGO-L Rebuildable Stainless Steel Dripping Atomizer - double heating wires / 1.6ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
And using it on my current Vamo to try things out for a while. I didn't realize it was so cheap.

Then if I like it I will eventually get a boxmod and a 2 coil tank.

Should I get 28 gauge kanthal like this? Amazon.com: Kanthal 28 AWG Gauge A1 Wire 100' Roll .32mm , 5.27 Ohms/ft Resistance: Everything Else
Or 30 Gauge like this? Amazon.com: Kanthal 30 Gauge AWG A1 Wire 100ft Roll .254mm , 8.36 Ohms/ft Resistance: Everything Else
What would be the difference? wouldn't you be able to get the same ohms from either by the number of coils or no?
Also if not from amazon where do you recommend I get my Kanthal from?

And what about the wicking? Should I get organic cotton like this: Amazon.com : Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls -- 100 Cotton Balls : Beauty
or I see people using what looks like an actual wick matieral of some sort..

What would give me the juiciest hit with the least chance of dry hits? I use 50/50 juice

Thanks!

I've not used the IGO-L so can't really comment on it.

I use the 28ga Kanthal because it is more durable in my application (NETs), than is 30-32 ga but still small enough in diameter to be coiled around a 0.052" drill bit. Any level of coil resistance (OHMs), can be achieved by pretty much any gauge of wire simply by adjusting the number of loops used in the coil.

For wicking I like rayon cellucotton. It wicks faster and better than any other material I have tried and tolerates heat better than regular cotton while providing outstanding flavor. Japanese cotton provides just as good of flavor but doesn't wick as fast and scorches easier. Organic cotton balls provide good flavor but not as good Japanese cotton in my experience. Any of the three would wick just fine with 50/50 juice. I've tried other wicking materials, hemp, silica, mesh and etc.. but being a flavor junkie I wasn't impressed.

 

[joesquid]

Not sure why y'all are recommending a dripper. I think this fella just wants a good all around set up. One he can take anywhere. I might have misread the OP but believe a Kayfun would fit his needs better. Maybe pair it up with an MVP. Just thinkin out loud.

 

[VaporWebHQ]

Not sure why y'all are recommending a dripper. I think this fella just wants a good all around set up. One he can take anywhere. I might have misread the OP but believe a Kayfun would fit his needs better. Maybe pair it up with an MVP. Just thinkin out loud.

Where would you recommend I buy one at? the one site I checked had a bunch of different models and its a bit confusing. I want to make sure if I get one that if comes with all the pieces for it. I think i read it doesn't use a standard 510 mouthpiece also?

Thanks.

 

[Silent Solution]

I have an IGO-W5 with a Crest Cap which cost me 40 bucks total. (I did buy two IGO's so I could try different builds) This atty has lasts me a verrrrryyy long time. I have had both for over 5 months and it is still my everyday dripper. I use 26 and sometimes 24 gauge kanthal and I only have to recoil every month or two. I do re-wick it every few days but cotton is so cheap. I do like to sub-ohm so make sure you know battery safety and such. Plenty of posts on here about that. If I was you I would pick up an IGO-W5 and grab a crest cap which makes the air holes bigger and the topper a little longer, which supposedly increases flavor. You will not be disappointed and Youtube is your friend for building. GrimmGreen even has a video for the IGO-W5 I believe.

 

[VaporWebHQ]

I'm just in awe atm about just how many different RDA's there are to choose from...

I'm looking on 866 Rebuildable Atomizers at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping And I just can't believe how many there are.. And multiple different clones of the same products.

I've decided I am for SURE getting an RDA I just don't know if I want a dripper or tank... The prices on that site are amazing tho..

I'm looking for something under $30 and and there are just so many...

I'm looking at maybe getting an IGO-L just because its so damn cheap and maybe also a Kayfun for driving around so I don't have to keep dripping, But there are multiple Kayfuns on fasttech and I don't know what the difference is really.

 

[Dissonance]

Get both, use the dripper to learn how to build coils (Hell of a lot easier to rip coils out of a dripper than drain a kayfun, rip the coils out, refill -_- ). Who knows, you might be a dripping person anyway I wasn't at first, seemed like too much of a hassle but now I almost exclusively drip

Oh, and also if you order fasttech pay the extra $1.50 for better shipping. I've ordered from them twice... Once almost 3 months ago, still waiting on items from that order. One more time about a month ago, got that shipment in under 2 weeks (that I paid extra for). Makes a HUGE difference.