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mamabear15

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Disclaimer: I'm a rookie, I don't yet know half what I'd want to know before rebuilding a coil - I have lessons planned from a buddy, but it's gonna be awhile

So, that said - can I just reWICK this thing?! Kanger Protank 3, yes it's dual coil and for that reason I can't find a YouTube video... I've done the t3s before (yep, started there) and I know they're compatible in that direction, I could use those rewicked in the protank 3, but I like the vape better on the protank coil... I've gotten it open and couldn't get the coils apart from each other to get to the bottom one without destroying the top one. Granted, I only tried once!!

If it helps, I've got old ones of both the ones that came with the pt3 (dual coil, short almost nonexistent metal thing sticking up off the base) and the replacement ones (still dual coil, but taller metal thing sticking up off the base) I believe the metal thing is called a chimney from what I've read, but it's hard for this rookie to tell for sure what is being referred to by a term I don't know

So enjoy a good laugh at my ignorance (I am myself especially while typing that last paragraph!!) but if y'all can educate me I'd be forever grateful!!!!
 

93gc40

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yes you can rewick the dual coil heads.... It's a PIA and to be honest recoiling the head is easier. I found that the best builds for my Mini PT3 were single vertical coils wicked with cotton, I run 1.8-2ohms in mine. The Vertical coil makes rewicking easy, also less leakage and gurgling.. You just pluck out the old with tweezers, gently dry burn and stuff new in. Lightning Vapes has spare parts, for the kanger heads.
 

mamabear15

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Thanks for the reply!! Guess I'll just keep buying stock heads until I can hook up with a friend locally for lessons... I have issues learning technical things, I can easily get the theory but when it comes to actually physically doing it, I want someone I can ask all my stupid questions of before I trust myself at all LOL
 

93gc40

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Mama Bear insinuates you have children.. Provided you didn't deal with them by eating them.. I promise you have the ability to wrap a bit of wire into a coil and stick it in a hole.
But rebuilding a Clearomiser like the Protank is more difficult than doing it with a device MEANT to be rebuilt. Stock heads work fine ... I buy them for my Wifes Protank.. She doesn't want to bother building coils, and I don't want to be blamed bad coils. So we compromised. I will go back to building her coils when and if she decides to get a Rebuildable Atomizer. ........or tells me too.
 

mamabear15

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I have the subtank as well, with the rebuild deck et al, I'm just intimidated by it. It pulls higher power than my protank does, and while I love the vapor & flavor, I'm afraid to mess with it because I frankly have no idea as to the "why" of what I see - the subtank on a 1.2 stock occ is recommended between 12-25 watts, and I use it around 18-20 depending on the juice ; yet I can put a 1.2 coil in my protank and burn it at 8 watts. There has to be a reason and I'm trying to figure it out - maybe wire gauge used / surface area / etc? just found a thread on that earlier today - but until I can say I understand it, I feel I shouldn't be messing with it. Call me overcautious. LOL
 

93gc40

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yeah the kanger head has a MUCH smaller Heating chamber and more airflow. Think of it like an Oven, a big one takes longer to heat than a small one, or a frying pan. A thick cast iron pan vs a thin stainless one.

I run My PT3 built to 2ohms at 5-7watts, more than 8 it burns.. The SAME coil in my Kayfun, can be run up to 12watts or more. (my APV max is 12watts). The vapor from the protank is HOTTER and the Kayfun feels almost cold. BUT, the Kayfun puits out storm clouds compared to the wisp of steam from the PT3.
 

zachdelaro

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Apr 4, 2015
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Disclaimer: I'm a rookie, I don't yet know half what I'd want to know before rebuilding a coil - I have lessons planned from a buddy, but it's gonna be awhile

So, that said - can I just reWICK this thing?! Kanger Protank 3, yes it's dual coil and for that reason I can't find a YouTube video... I've done the t3s before (yep, started there) and I know they're compatible in that direction, I could use those rewicked in the protank 3, but I like the vape better on the protank coil... I've gotten it open and couldn't get the coils apart from each other to get to the bottom one without destroying the top one. Granted, I only tried once!!

If it helps, I've got old ones of both the ones that came with the pt3 (dual coil, short almost nonexistent metal thing sticking up off the base) and the replacement ones (still dual coil, but taller metal thing sticking up off the base) I believe the metal thing is called a chimney from what I've read, but it's hard for this rookie to tell for sure what is being referred to by a term I don't know

So enjoy a good laugh at my ignorance (I am myself especially while typing that last paragraph!!) but if y'all can educate me I'd be forever grateful!!!!

what you just described is how i got into rebuilding. i knew i could tinker, didn't know much, and i had protank coils.

dual coils are a pain to rewick. you can try dry burning them and cleaning them that way to try and extend their life.

the main problem is that i believe (correct me if i am wrong, ecf) coils that use silica are done by wrapping the wire around the silica, so it is not terribly easy to yank one out and slip a new one in.

taking the coils out and back in again will also be a pain. you'll have to worry about them shorting if they touch the sides and getting 4 leads trapped in a tiny little space.

there are youtube videos on rewicking, rebuilding protank coils but it seems a pain. then on top of that, once you do successfully rebuild, if they are not properly placed, then you will get leaking.

if you do pursue this, i wish you patience and success
 
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