SMPL clone (SXK) review. Can anything one up this in terms of VD?

[Derrick Wang]

Just got my SXK SS clone in the mail. VD is .2V less than my nemesis clone, with a .5 drop on a .09 ohm build.
I do like the functionality of this with not having to deal with a locking ring. The groove where the coin slot is located is a little sharp so I'll have to file it a little. I do think it's a pressed in top. From the outside, you wouldn't ever be able to tell but there is a noticeable seam on the inside. Overall, satisfied purchase.

Aside from that, although I'd like to cop a few more mechs I don't see myself ever buying any other mods that can't beat this in terms of VD. The 1 piece / no top cap design is the reason for the lower VD compared to the rest of the stuff on the market. So far I have a Nemesis and Stingray X, and have had my eye on the Cartel, Caravela, Black Hawk, and a few others that have really awesome designs but I'm dissuaded by the fact that the VD on all of them will be higher than the SMPL. Are there any contenders for the SMPL in terms of VD?

 

[Froth]

The Authentic is pure bliss, and worth every bit of $120. I wish they were more available so people didn't have to settle for clones

To be fair, I own two clones and three authentics, the SMPL is one of if not the best mod on the market for 18650 users.

 

[Derrick Wang]

The Authentic is pure bliss, and worth every bit of $120. I wish they were more available so people didn't have to settle for clones

To be fair, I own two clones and three authentics, the SMPL is one of if not the best mod on the market for 18650 users.

Wow I can only imagine how many mechs you own if you already have 5 of the same mech that just came out recently. That's already $400+.

Agreed, I would get the authentic if I could but I can't justify $120 on it. I know it hits harder due to it being a true 1 piece

 

[Kevin littell]

Nemesis must be stainless....


Try either mod in copper and your cooking with fire.

 

[Derrick Wang]

Nemesis must be stainless....


Try either mod in copper and your cooking with fire.

The Nemesis is in a "Chrome Brass" color. Not sure why it's labeled that color since it looks like black chrome or chrome gunmetal. Anyways, both the Nemesis and my Stingray X have identical VD, even after cleaning all the threads and contacts.

Update: Upon further cleaning of my 3 RDA's (Dark horse, Plumeveil 1.5, Doge), the best VD under load I've gotten is .37V, with an average of ~.4 - 4.5V with repeated testing. The Nemesis can't do any better than a .7 VD

 

[Confuzzled1969]

The Nemesis is in a "Chrome Brass" color. Not sure why it's labeled that color since it looks like black chrome or chrome gunmetal. Anyways, both the Nemesis and my Stingray X have identical VD, even after cleaning all the threads and contacts.

Update: Upon further cleaning of my 3 RDA's (Dark horse, Plumeveil 1.5, Doge), the best VD under load I've gotten is .37V, with an average of ~.4 - 4.5V with repeated testing. The Nemesis can't do any better than a .7 VD

I keep reading about people measureing a voltage drop on there mod's, how are you doing this?

 

[bullet08]

i read VD and was thinking.. "don't they call that STD now days?".. lol

 

[Confuzzled1969]

i read VD and was thinking.. "don't they call that STD now days?".. lol

 

[Derrick Wang]

I keep reading about people measureing a voltage drop on there mod's, how are you doing this?

I bought a digital multimeter. I first test the battery (usually a fresh sony off the charger) on it's positive and negatives -> pop it in the mech -> and test the voltage under load on the positive and negative posts of the rda.
from there, i subtract the difference in the voltages, and viola.

 

[Froth]

Wow I can only imagine how many mechs you own if you already have 5 of the same mech that just came out recently. That's already $400+.

Agreed, I would get the authentic if I could but I can't justify $120 on it. I know it hits harder due to it being a true 1 piece

I used to buy mods left and right, not a week would go by without buying a new 18650 mech and putting it to the test against my others, before I made the switch to all Hybrid style 18650 mechs I had over a dozen sitting next to my desk waiting to be used or being neglected. Then I found the SMPL, I sold off several of my other mods so I could justify having three of the Authentic SMPL's, When I originally purchased my first SMPL in Copper the clones were not even being made yet(trust me, I looked HARD), I only bought the two clones to test against the authentics and inspect for the top cap seams. As of now I no longer have any plans to buy more mods, the SMPL is just that good to me.

 

[Confuzzled1969]

I bought a digital multimeter. I first test the battery (usually a fresh sony off the charger) on it's positive and negatives -> pop it in the mech -> and test the voltage under load on the positive and negative posts of the rda.
from there, i subtract the difference in the voltages, and viola.

Then your just measuring the battery volts under load, not the voltage drop of the mech...

 

[DaveSignal]

Then your just measuring the battery volts under load, not the voltage drop of the mech...

Although some people use in-line voltmeters, the concept is the same. Even though the battery itself and the atomizer with build will have its own voltage drop, this can be compensated for by using the same battery and same atomizer in another mod. Lower resistance builds will have higher voltage drop, but with the same atty and same battery, you narrow it down to the difference between mods.

 

[Confuzzled1969]

Although some people use in-line voltmeters, the concept is the same. Even though the battery itself and the atomizer with build will have its own voltage drop, this can be compensated for by using the same battery and same atomizer in another mod. Lower resistance builds will have higher voltage drop, but with the same atty and same battery, you narrow it down to the difference between mods.

Ok, that will work if the meter is accurate enough to see that little difference in voltage.

To acurrately meausre the drop of a piece of metal though, you would have to put it in a circuit and then measue across it with a very accurate meter.

But a lower resistance build will not drop more voltage, it will draw more current.
In a simple circuit like these things, the voltage drop of the load (atomizer) will be all available voltage across it, which will be the voltage of the battery according to it's charge at the time.

It sounds like what most people are calling voltage drop of the mod is actually the voltage drop of the battery itself.

In reality, the voltage drop of the mod is going to depend on the switch and how good of a connection it makes.

 

[duc916]

In reality, the voltage drop of the mod is going to depend on the switch and how good of a connection it makes.

Those tankometers give you enough data to make an inference as to what your mod's voltage drop is, but to actually measure this, the test leads would need to between the 510 threads up top, to the negative battery terminal. That's the voltage drop across the mod. It's really the only measurement that matters, but since it isn't feasible to measure it without the indirect results getting muddled in assumptions, I never paid them any mind. Half the people who talk about their mod's voltage drop don't really understand what they're talking about and it's glaringly obvious to those who have more than a Google search's worth of an education on electronics.

 

[milescadre]

tbh, 120$ for a mech isnt bad. IF I had the budget and need, I'd pick one up (I have 3 mech mods and a vw mod, dont need another =P I have troubles using what I have!)

But it looks solid ^^

 

[evgeny131]

copper nemesis- 0.14 drop on a ,5 dual coil genny build lowest vd of any mod i own