Tank questions (ohms)

Status
Not open for further replies.

Strawberries

Full Member
Mar 17, 2014
21
6
I'm getting a new pv and want to buy 2-3 new tanks. It's able to go down to 0.5 ohms but I don't know how often I'll actually sub ohm, though I'd like to experiment.

I'm looking at the aspire nautilus and aspire atlantis, what should I buy? I know the nautilus isn't for sub ohming, which is fine, but how do I choose a sub tank if my pv only goes down to 0.5? It says to use a mod "capable of firing an atomizer of 0.5 or lower", so if I'm firing at anything above 0.5, will it cause problems? Or could I only use it when I'm exactly at 0.5?

Also, with the nautilus, can you remove the tapered part at the bottom and not use it? Can I add my own drip tips?

Also, if I'm using the nautilus and went below 1 ohm, is it dangerous?

Thanks!
 

DingerCPA

Vaping Mistress
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 9, 2014
9,020
61,421
Corn 'n' Cows
Hiya Strawberries!

Which PV you looking at? You're right, there currently aren't coils for the Nautilus (1.6 is the lowest I've seen) If your PV is capable of firing as low as 0.5 ohms, typically, you're good firing higher than that (although, I think I've seen some PVs that have a relatively limited range.)

The Atlantis only has 0.5 ohm coils (I think)

I have an iStick 30 and an iStick 50. The 30 will fire pretty much anything between 0.5-3 ohms. The 50 will fire as low as 0.2 ohms (which I've NEVER even come close to.)

Do you like a tighter draw or an airier draw? The Nautilus is a slightly tighter draw (but it does have 4 airhole settings) I don't have an Atlantis, but if it's akin to my Subtanks, it will be better utilized with more airflow.

I like the Subtank Nano - I can swap between stock 0.5 ohm or 1.2 ohm coils. These are also able to be rebuilt. The Subtank Mini is a larger tank, and it comes with an RBA deck on which you can build pretty much anything you want. It also uses the stock 0.5 or 1.2 ohm coils.

If it's in your budget, get one of each?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Strawberries

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,691
67
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
Are you a mouth-to-lung inhaler?

If you are, you will not like the Atlantis. Many of the new subΩ tanks are very airy and are designed for lung inhaling. I have heard that some (but not all) members who are mouth-to-lung inhalers can close down the airflow on the Subtank mini enough to be able to M2L inhale.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Strawberries

Strawberries

Full Member
Mar 17, 2014
21
6
I'm not sure about the draw yet, probably somewhere in between? I'll need to experiment.

Yeah, I just noticed that there are 3 different coils available for the atlantis 2.0. So would the 0.5 coil be good for anything between 0.5-0.9, and the 1.0 coil good for anything 1.0 and above? Though it looks like the kanger may be a better deal, I'd just want to change those red rings!

I feel like I should know this by now after doing so much reading, but I'm still confused: if the pv is capable of 0.5, then is changing the coils more a matter of air flow/taste or is it a matter of safety, as well?

Is there any benefit to getting a non sub ohm coil tank in this circumstance?
 

DingerCPA

Vaping Mistress
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 9, 2014
9,020
61,421
Corn 'n' Cows
I'm not sure about the draw yet, probably somewhere in between? I'll need to experiment.

Yeah, I just noticed that there are 3 different coils available for the atlantis 2.0. So would the 0.5 coil be good for anything between 0.5-0.9, and the 1.0 coil good for anything 1.0 and above? Though it looks like the kanger may be a better deal, I'd just want to change those red rings!

I feel like I should know this by now after doing so much reading, but I'm still confused: if the pv is capable of 0.5, then is changing the coils more a matter of air flow/taste or is it a matter of safety, as well?

Is there any benefit to getting a non sub ohm coil tank in this circumstance?

I wasn't looking at the Atlantis 2.0 :oops: Yes, changing the coils (for me) changes the quality of the vape. I run about 1.6-2.0 in my Nautilus and Protank2s. I do this when I want to "conserve" juice and/or battery life (like during my workday.) When I'm home, I might break out a Subtank (or an RDA) and hit between 0.5-1.0 ohms at higher power.

So, I have both - subohm and non-subohm toppers. All depends on my mood :) The PV just gives you an idea of where it's capable of running. You still pick and choose how you run it. Most PVs (regulated) won't fire a topper below its low-end rating - that's its safety feature. And, I run pretty much any topper on my iStick - because I know it will work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Strawberries

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,691
67
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
Maybe I'll just buy a sub tank mini and a nautilus and call it a day lol
That is going to be your best option since you don't know if you will like lung inhaling.

off myvaporstore " If you're using a regulated mod, make sure it can handle the amps" how would you calculate that?
That applies to regulated mods that do not have an internal battery (i.e. a battery that you can remove to charge).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Strawberries

Ohm Gnome

Super Member
Apr 27, 2015
748
1,283
46
Douglasville Ga
I might be wrong but the way I've read this you're confusing the definition of ohms with watts or volts. Ohms are the measurement of resistance. You asked if firing the Nautilus below 1 ohm is dangerous. You won't be doing that. The ohms are set by how the coil is built. With a regulated mod you can adjust the watts or volts but the ohms in that Nautilus will stay the same so you don't have to worry about that part. It's great to study and research and I respect you for it but sometimes you can over think things. If I'm wrong let me know and maybe I can help you better
 

jseah

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 16, 2015
4,112
19,429
Hudson Valley, NY, USA
Ugh, I'm still so confused >.> Maybe I'll just buy a sub tank mini and a nautilus and call it a day lol.

off myvaporstore " If you're using a regulated mod, make sure it can handle the amps" how would you calculate that?

Amps are calculated to be the voltage you are using divided by the resistance of the coil. So if you are pushing out 5 volts to the coil and the coil has a resistance of 0.5 ohms, the amps needed are 5 divided by 0.5, which equals 10 amps. So you would need a battery that can handle at least 10 amps continuous. Most of the decent batteries like the LG HE2 and HE4, and the Samsung 25R all handle 20 amps continuous. Batteries like the Sony VTC4's and Orbtronics SX30 handle 30 amps continuous. So these batteries are more than capable of handling the amp requirements of the 0.5 ohm coil. Pushing 5 volts to your tank would be pretty high. This translates to 50 watts (5 volts times 5 volts divided by 0.5 ohms). Some subohm tanks can handle 50 watts although it would be at the extreme high end of the recommended range. Other tanks like the Subtank, 50 watts would be well above the recommended range of the coil (Kanger recommends using the 0.5 ohm OCC between 15 and 30 watts) and would most likely result in a burnt hit because the coil most likely would not be able to wick juice fast enough.

Now if you are talking about mod without removable batteries like the iSticks and the MVP line, those are designed so that they won't exceed the amp load of the battery. You may see the specs (and this also applies to regulated mods that take removable batteries like the Sigeleis) say that it can handle down to 0.5 or even 0.2 ohms, have voltage ranges of 3 to 9 volts and have wattage ranges of 5 to upwards of 150 watts. All three specs are interdependent, so the mod won't allow you to modify one to the point where it exceeds any of the other two.

Let's use the iStick 30 as an example. The iStick 30 can output voltage between 2 and 8 volts, wattage between 5 and 30 watts, and can handle resistance between 0.4 to 5 ohms. You can set the voltage and the iStick will automatically set the wattage based on the resistance, or you can set the wattage and the iStick will automatically set the voltage based on the resistance. So let's go to the extremes and set the voltage to 8 volts and use a coil resistance of 0.4 ohms (the minimum resistance accepted by the iStick). Using the previous formula, this means 8 x 8 / 0.4 = 160 watts, which is well above the 30 watt limit of the iStick, so this means that if you are using a 0.4 ohm coil, the iStick will not allow you to set the voltage up to 8 volts. At the maximum of 30 watts and a resistance of 0.4 ohms, the highest voltage you will be able to use will be the square root of 12 (30 watts times 0.4 ohms), which is 3.464 volts. Now say you want to use that same 0.4 ohm coil, but you want to tootle puff and want to set the wattage to be the minimum of 5 watts. The voltage will be the square root of 2 (5 watts times 0.4 ohms), which is 1.41 volts. The iStick won't let you set the wattage all the way down to 5 watts because it will be below the minimum voltage it can produce (2 volts). It will fire though, at 10 watts, because this translates to be exactly 2 volts, which is the iStick minimum voltage. Of course, vaping at 10 watts with a 0.4 ohm coil might not be very enjoyable. Most likely it would flood and spit because it can't heat up enough to vaporize the juice.
 

Strawberries

Full Member
Mar 17, 2014
21
6
Yeah Gnome, I was wondering if that was the case and it wasn't until after making this thread that it really sunk in =) Thanks for clarifying!

Maybe I overthink things, but in this case I'm just trying to understand the basics. I had been preparing to make a big purchase today and wanted to be confident in my decision ;-)

Thanks so much jseah for the in depth explanation! That's a lot to take in but I look forward to learning more.
 
Last edited:

WonderDude32

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 9, 2015
880
737
50
Clarksville, TN
You have to rebuild a Nautilus coil to .5 if your mod will handle the sub ohm and it will work. The risk to this is the rubber grommet may melt. Not good. You may also have wicking issues. Solution for this is an RBA tank like a Subtank mini. You can buy stock coils or rebuild as low as you can safely. Other options for rba's are Delta 2, Artics, Kayfuns. Simply put, the Nautilus wasn't made to handle a sub ohm coil. I've rebuilt to 1.0 and it worked but it really isn't worth the hassle or possiblity of ruining your tank.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread